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Published: January 25th 2010
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Ok where were we? Chiang Mai.
We set off for a leisurely walk toward Chang Pheuak Gate - the old city of Chaing Mai (est. 1296) was surrounded by a moat (still there) and large brick wall, some of which still survives. On the way there we stopped at a temple just down the road from our guesthouse (you would have to try hard to not wander by a temple in this city). Wat Chiang Man, it turns out, is the oldest in the city. Ladies sit in front of the temple with small baskets of wild birds that one is supposed to pay money to set free. Supposed to be good luck, especially for the birds I'd say.
From there we found out where to catch a songthaew (song-tao) to get up to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, a mountain-top temple that dates back to 1383. A songthaew is a red pickup truck (I think there is a rule that the pickups must be at least 25 years old) with bench seats facing each other and covered by a metal canopy. You can fit about 8 happy tourists in the back of a songthaew though we saw some that
were carrying about 20 Thai. The ride up to Doi Suthep starts in town and then slowly winds its way through bustling roads up into the mountains. The twistier the roads get, the less happy the tourists in the back get. Since you are not facing forward you have to do something to satisfy the inner ear requirements that keep one from blowing breakfast all over your neighbor. Happily I was back by the tailgate and was able to just focus on the view behind me up and up and up the tight switchbacks that lead to the temple’s entrance.
It is an important point of pilgrimage for devout Buddhists and being a weekend in the high season, all of Thailand was there . There is a long staircase that leads up to the temple and that is lined with people and their tables selling bracelets, toys, scarves, waffles on a stick - everything imaginable. It is a festive environment, everyone is mellow and the sea of humanity flows up and down the stairs non-stop.
Typically my hell, being around all of these people, but I’m getting used to expecting it and enjoying the chaos for what it
is: all part of the experience. The reward is the exquisite temple at the top (love the sign telling foreigners to fork over cash for visiting - everywhere there are different prices for tourists and Thai. Can you imagine a tiered pricing system in the US?!)
Doi (which means mountain) Suthep is lovely. We got to watch a monk offer a blessing to a small group - it is a rather comfortable ceremony where the people sit on their knees in front of the monk and he sits on a platform slightly above them and chants what sounded like a short, friendly sermon. The whole time he dips long sticks into a bowl of water (akin to holy water?) or perhaps it’s oil (I promise I’ll look up what exactly is going on during the ceremony - till then please forgive my ignorance) and shakes the sticks out over the people. It was all very conversational, this incantation and enjoyable to sit in on. They are very tolerant of the curiosity of the tourists it seems. They simply ask that you take your shoes off, dress conservatively (no short shorts, bare shoulders) and not act like an idiot. The
inside of the temples are all amazing, always with a large gold Buddha centerpiece, beautiful paint on the carved wood trim and rich garnet carpeting. They are always breathtaking, even the smaller temples.
All around the main building are smaller shrines, prayer bells, and lovely statues. It is certainly a very visually appealing religion.
We made it back down to town and found a little locals restaurant and ordered a couple of $1 bowls of food - noodle concoctions with vegetables and yummy gravylike sauces. We’re starting, for better or worse, to trust the food all around us. So far so good (looking for wood in this minivan I’m typing in to knock on). It was hot and we suffered through one more walk to yet another temple before I grumpily announced that I ws DONE with temples and I wanted a cold beer and to not be out walking in the 36 degree sun (36 is celsius for TOO HOT). We escaped back to our lovely courtyard, to a cold Chang beer and made a plan to go hit the Anusan night market.
The maket is a bit of a mystical sight, lights strung around a
huge(football field sized) courtyard where people have their wares set out. The courtyard is ringed by restaurants gouging tourists with high prices and mediocre food. The highlight of the evening was a live band rocking John Denver and Neil Young while we ate. The Thai markets are much less of a stressful buying situation that those we found in Cambodia where you are pounced on relentlessly. Because of that we were much more successful at not buying anything (though the horse pee eggs were tempting) and instead enjoying the atmosphere of a far away city and its nighttime energy.
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mo
non-member comment
You transport us...almost forgot I was at work! What an incredible journey!