Advertisement
Published: August 23rd 2007
Edit Blog Post
Never before have I been so underprepared for a trip abroad. I probably put more forethought into a night out in Winchester than I did into these 6 months in Asia, Australia and Africa. Add to that a last minute impulse decision to cycle the first leg from Bangkok to Hong Kong. I don't know why. It was something I figured needed not too much planning. I have done the London to Brighton bike ride on several occasions and never trained or prepared for that either, and in essence this was just going to be the equivalent of that for 30 days instead of 1. I threw together a handful of cycling accessories I had hanging around the shed, dug out my most padded lycras (for comfort, not effect, I assure you) and promised mum I'd wear a helmet - which seems like a waste of space as I haven't even crashed. Yet. The only piece of equipment missing was a bicycle and after a moments deliberation, decided I'd buy one when I get there. I packed light. Very light. Anything I desperately needed I could always buy as I go along. Like clothes or a toothbrush or a backpack.
Thailand is a Buddhist country sprinkled with hundreds of ornate Buddhist wats (temples) and thousands of different images of Buddha. It is ahead of GMT by 7 hours and 543 years (they use the Buddhist calendar which starts from the date that Buddha entered Nirvana). So it is nearing the year 3000, and despite Busted's vision, they do not all live underwater. Saying that, it is monsoon season here, so late afternoon I invariably get drenched to the bone. Another example of my lack of foresight for this trip - so far I've gone from a Central American winter to a South American winter to southeast Asian monsoons.
Thailand attracts 14 million tourists per year, making Bangkok the main gateway to Asia. As such it is fully catered for the tourist. You can find brillint barains or scrupulous scams.
Bangkok was my arrival gate to Asia, which I visited a few years ago on my first gap year. Back then I was a naive young backpacker, but hopefully I'm a bit more travel savvy now. I learned some important lessons the hard way first time round. For example, I tried to take a Tuk Tuk to the Grand Palace,
but instead the driver took me on a full-day tour of his mates jewellers and tailors shops. Then the same evening I was taken on a prowl of Bangkok's finest strip joints, not noticing that the beautiful "ladies" dancing around me were complete with the full tackle. I won't be making the same mistake again. Taking a Tuk Tuk that is.
I stayed in Bangkok time enough to buy a bike and then took an overnight train to Chiang Mai. Already you may be seeing how half-hearted this biking effort is going to be. Chiang Mai is Thailand's second city and located in the northern part of Thailand. The northern region is a hilly terrain, with countless paddy fields separating deep jungle. Great cycling scenery. After briefly checking out Chiang Mai, I first hit the pedal-power towards Chiang Rai.
I would usually cover about 100 kms in a day - start out early, clock up 60 kms or so before taking lunch in a small Thai village somewhere. Then try to reach my destination during the mid to late afternoon. Being in the saddle for 6 hours a day is a great way to see the countryside and
meet rural locals - although it does make me think I maybe should have done the whole having kids thing before trying this. The Thai people are friendly, helpful, laid back, and not easily offended (an observation, not a challenge). As I cycle, almost every moto that overtakes me will toot and many will slow down for a chat for a few minutes. Their English is often limited to "Hello", "What your name?", "Where you from?" and "David Beck Ham very good", but their smiles are enough motivation to keep me pushing on. What's more, at the end of a long day with my bum perched on a small hard seat, there's no better place to get a massage - both in Thailand and on my bum.
In the regions surrounding Chiang Rai live a number of hill tribes. I had the perfect transport to hop from village to village seeing how these tribes live. Or at least how they choose to show you they live. The most remarkable of these ethnic hill groups are the Karen tribe (or Long-Necked tribe or Giraffe people). As their name indicates, they have long necks. Well, the women do. From the age
Giant Reclining Buddha
Oi, get out of the picture of 5, brass ringlets are placed around the girls neck, increasing year on year and stretching the neckular vertabrae. Now days they are not forced to carry on this tradition, but many still do. The offical word is it brings "tribal identity". My word would be it brings "tourist money". From Chiang Rai I continued towards the northern border town of Mae Sai, where Thailand meets Myanmar (formerly Burma). Here you can buy a day visa to visit a market town inside Myanmar, which is otherwise pretty much out of bounds for Westerners, as it is being governed by a closed-door military dictatorship. For me, the decision to visit or not to visit was similar to the "should I go to watch a bullfight?" dilemma. I don't want to help finance their economy, but I could justify it for "research" purposes or something. I eventually decided I wasn't going to have time to start the wave of revolution, so kept moving on.
I headed eastwards along the frontier to the Golden Triangle, a small town on the confluence of the Mekong river, which separates Thailand, Myanmar and Laos. Plus China and Vietnam are also visible on the horizons. The
Monks in the morning mist
Keeping to the speed limit Golden Triangle is one of the two main illicit opium-producing areas in Asia (the other being Afghanistan). Historically, Burmese opium and morphine products would arrive here for conversion to heroin, although the Thai government has cracked down hard on this recently. From Thailand's point of view, the town now exists mainly to allow photos under Golden Triangle signs.
I then followed the Mekong path downriver for another full day to the Laos border-crossing at Chiang Khong. As I am usually heading northwards and eastwards, only half my body is ever facing the sun. It now looks like I have painted the Polish flag on myself (I know I used the Arsenal home shirt analogy before, so had to be a bit more inventive).
I crossed the border into Laos and took a slowboat along the river to the town of Luang Phabang. Slow means 2 days to cover 300 km. My bike balanced on the roof for the whole trip and I was mostly relieved to see it was still there when we arrived - although a part of me would have taken it as a message if it had mysteriously slipped into the depths of the Mekong.
Luang Phabang is a charming town, where bright orange clad Buddhist monks dash through the early morning mist and the bustling markets offer anything from live eels to dead cheap designer clothes.
Luang Phabang used to be the capital of the Kingdom of Laos, until 1975 when the commies took over. Laos has for the mostpart of its existence been a French territory and therefore its history has been heavily influenced by French fortunes - when France takes a beating (ie. regularly), Laos follows shortly behind. It was dragged into both Indochina wars, serving as an unwilling battlefield as the US tried to bomb the Vietcong out of hiding.
They say Laos is like Thailand was 20 years ago. I only visited the 3 major tourist towns, which had all the modern amenities, so either Thailand was way ahead of its day or I didn't really explore the true Laos. I would say the latter as "true" Laos probably doesn't involve sitting in the inner tube of a tractor tyre, floating 10 km down a river, whilst drinking beers and jumping off 15 metre high rope swings.
I then cycled to Vientiane, the capital of Laos, took a few postcard pictures, before jumping on the train to Cambodia.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.156s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 15; qc: 29; dbt: 0.0788s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Mark
non-member comment
Keep it up.
Keep it up Tim. I wish I could be doing what you are. Traveling the world is a faboulous way to spend some time, there is so much to explore and so many people to meet. When I lived in South America bumming around was my favorite passtime and a mode of transportation. I got to see and learn in a real first hand way which 25 years later still provides me whith great insight on life and the appreciation of what we have and even greater memories, I mean how many people can say they have travelled the world this way! Take care Tim and have Fun, and keep blogging. And wear you helmet it makes a differance,we all fall sometime best be prepared. Thanks Mark.