Gorge-ous Taroko


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October 13th 2006
Published: November 2nd 2006
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Baiyang WaterfallBaiyang WaterfallBaiyang Waterfall

Part of a 3-tiered cascade.
I'm going to talk about food again, so please bear with me. Living in Masuda our dining options are rather limited. We eat at the same damn restaurants offering the same damn food time and time again. Not to say the food isn't tasty, but there's only so many ways you can cook rice. So when we travel, we tend to treat ourselves a little and eat at places not available to us back home (which is why I know exactly where to find a Wendy's in Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka, and Fukuoka). Now, Taiwanese food is great - even better than Greek and Thai food in my opinion - so why, you ask, would we choose to eat at Domino's Pizza two nights in a row?

Well you see, the pizza here is crap, and it always has corn on it. Yes, corn. So for two nights in a row we dined on real pizza with garlic bread and tater-tots while sitting in our room watching movies. It was bliss, and I'm getting hungry just thinking about all that gooey cheese.

And the Wendy's in Osaka, it's in the basement of a nondescript building not too far from the
TunnelsTunnelsTunnels

The path to the Baiyang Waterfall.
seedy red-light district in downtown. Don't ask how we ended up there in the first place - we found the Wendy's, and that's what's really important.

Anyway, back to the real reason you're here: Taroko Gorge. About three hours from Taipei down the east coast is Hualien, a ho-hum city decked to the nines in marble pinched from the mountains. While the city is nothing to write home about (or in this case, blog about), Taroko National Park is. Hot springs, waterfalls, ravines, steep marble canyons, and clear rivers running through the gorge to the Pacific Ocean - Taroko Gorge is nature at its best. It's Taiwan's biggest attraction and it's practically deserted!

We spent two days hiking in the park, and at times it seemed like we were the only ones there (Taiwan isn't exactly tourist central, which is exactly why you should go). There's nothing but time to relax along the river or soak up the scenery, or walk around naked (if that's your thing). Unfortunately, numerous trails have been closed off - some quite recently, others for several years - due to people-smushing rockslides that frequent the area. Taiwan sits on a major tectonic plate boundary
Suspension BridgeSuspension BridgeSuspension Bridge

Rock the boat! Don't rock the boat!
which causes plenty of nasty earthquakes.

Three important pieces of information we picked up on this trip:
1) Buses no longer drive down the east coast. The only way to get to Hualien is by train - John Coltrane (two can play that game, Cory).
2) You can flag a bus down anywhere along the highway within Taroko National Park. I'd recommend in the morning you take the bus all the way to Tienhsiang, do the Baiyang Waterfall trail, then start walking back towards Park Headquarters 15km away. When the time is getting late or you're getting tired, jump on a bus back to the city.
3) Denise really hates it when I go stomping across a suspension bridge, making it sway and bounce...especially when she's right in the middle. I, on the other hand, think it's great fun!

All in all, it was the perfect way to end our trip to Taiwan. Fresh air, clear blue skies, and wonderful mountain scenery always earn top marks in my book. It really is quite spectacular - and growing up in the shadow of the Rockies, I know what I'm talking about. Pictures are worth 1000 words, but even sometimes
Shakadang RiverShakadang RiverShakadang River

Clear blue water.
a picture won't do. You simply have to see it for yourself.

Camille & Denise

P.S. - In response to my last entry, I received a rather snippy message from 'Harry', some guy who likes to run his mouth before asking questions and getting the whole story (which I would've been willing to discuss, by the way, if you'd have left an email address Harry). It seems he disagrees with some of the comments I made in Depose regarding the protests in Taipei on National Day. Whatever the case may be, Harry can go fuck himself, because if anyone's gonna cop an attitude on this blog, it's me.


Additional photos below
Photos: 11, Displayed: 11


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Eternal Spring ShrineEternal Spring Shrine
Eternal Spring Shrine

Built in memory of the workers that died during the construction of the Central Cross-Island highway. This is the third shrine - the previous two were buried under rockslides.
Taisha RiverTaisha River
Taisha River

Just north of Tienhsiang.
Winding RoadWinding Road
Winding Road

The roads are pretty narrow all through the gorge, even the tunnels. And the guard rails are beat to hell (but that's mostly due to falling rocks, not errant cars).
Baiyang WaterfallBaiyang Waterfall
Baiyang Waterfall

It's an easy, hour-long, 2km hike from the main road to reach the falls.
PagodaPagoda
Pagoda

At the Hsiangte Temple in the village of Tienhsiang.
Water CurtainWater Curtain
Water Curtain

Dig our bitchin' plastic ponchos we had to wear to enter the tunnel.
Chang Chun Ci TrailChang Chun Ci Trail
Chang Chun Ci Trail

High above the Eternal Spring Shrine. Who builds these places anyway?


2nd November 2006

Show your face ye dirty bastard! Fair fight! Except Camille gets a hockey stick. I've seen what he can do with a hockey stick, it's a combination of magic and horror that will stay with me for the rest of my life.
2nd November 2006

Wow
I'm blown away by the scenery, mon amis. But more importantly, I'm blown away that there is a SHAKadang River. Back here in Cowtown, that sounds more like a cowboy yelling at my firend and yours, Mr. Shakti Sarai.
3rd November 2006

Chicken shit Harry. I hope he reads this and feels shame for the small, small man that he is.
3rd November 2006

wow!
First I have to say... nice poncho Denise!!! haha. You're sooo cute! Then I have to say... what a beautiful place. And also good to know that you two aren't dying of starvation due to a lack of selection of food. Mmmmm.... Wendy's.
5th November 2006

Good pics
I can see why you're on the main page. Well done sir, well done. Keep on truckin' you two.
7th November 2006

Amazing scenery
I can almost inhale the fresh air.

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