Last Precious days in Sri Lanka

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We arrived in Galle, and got a tuk tuk round Fort to Khalid’s guest house. We had to direct the driver, and felt on familiar territory especially as the 3 wheeler turned into the fort, and swung right up past the ramparts. The calm solidity of the metres thick wall, with the sea rushing pointlessly against it was both beautiful and instantly reminiscent of happy times. Eventually the sea with its insistent movement will win the battle, but for now that is hard to believe and these walls will endure for centuries yet.

Within the walls every building has its merits, from the atmospheric Anura’s Restaurant where we ate, remembering a similar feeling creperie in Pas de Calais, to the splendid empty 3 storey YMCA building on the end of Pedlar Street, with rooms on the top floor peeking over the wall to the restless sea flanked by towers which are crying out to be artists cells. It is a bit of a fixer upper, but you can’t help day dreaming of buying it. We found beautiful round windows in ruins and drank tea on Mama’s rooftop café with views over the fort as the sun set. Minarets and lighthouses, Fort walls, and shades of white unassuming exteriors with intricate detailing and individual oases of calm inside prove Galle’s architecture is a beacon for multi culturism. Strong Moorish influence sits along side European colonialism but in a place that is unmistakeably Asia. It is no wonder this is a UNESCO site, and all the more wonderful for being alive. Ice cream sellers peddle their wares and children run and play. You can stay and eat here from the very cheap to the eye wateringly expensive and café life flourishes. Our favourite café is still Pedlar’s Inn, and it was in here relaxing with iced coffees and lemonades that we spotted a poster for a school summer fete.

The boys will miss their own summer fete at Gigmill this year, and so we thought we should go along. It was the perfect opportunity for the boys to spend their accumulated pocket money. The fete was inevitably in a spacious walled garden playground with shade from large trees. There was a coconut shy, a pyramid of tins, and a hit the rat. There were clothes stalls, book stalls, refreshments, hot dogs and cakes. The boys’ favourite was a lucky dip - where they were rapidly recognised as best customers- from where they amassed a collection of plastic animals, the elephant and lion were dwarfed by the scorpion and ant, and they spent the afternoon in games starring this bizarre cast. We tuned out but could not help catching weird snatches, like when the ant started chucking radioactive ant poo at the lion!

Our stay at Khalids was everything we hoped for and we congratulated each other on having made the right choice in leaving Tangalle. Dark wood floors and furniture, white washed walls and vaulted and arched ceilings are peaceful and the food, from the egg hoppers for breakfast to the selection of vegetable curries for our last dinner in Galle, was delicious.

We walked to the train station savouring our last minutes here, and were amazed to see a cricket match going on. The recreation ground is across the road from the cricket pitch and must be among the world’s best situated. The four sides are the sea, a 17th century fort wall, a park, and an international sports pitch. Even so, if it were in England it is unlikely that a crowd of people would have gathered for an impromptu cricket match at quarter past seven on a Sunday morning (unless they were Mitchells perhaps!).

The only way to spend your last day in a place you have loved is with friends. Our trip seemed to start for real with Kannan and Sweta’s wedding, and their company has sustained, nourished and refreshed us at various stages. We took a final train (this visit) up the coconut palm fringed white sanded coast from Galle to Colombo to spend our last day with them.

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Photos

Jake up on the roof
Between lighthouse and mosque

Comments

[David Hope]

Happy Father's Day
Happy father's day Joe. However the Hope family reunion this weekend has been a very quiet affair without the Yeates boys, though is much speculation as to whether Jake and Elliot contribute the noise or more likely father Joe!!

[Joeandnicky]

Happy Fathers Day
And happy father's day to you too David, and indeed any other fathers out there (yes Dad, that includes you!)

[Joeandnicky]

Cricket
You would all Love Galle, really is fantastic. Our favourite beach was probably Arugam Bay, but the ones along the south coast esp, Mirissa and Unawatuna were top class too, and a lot more accesssible. Thinking of you all too, as we are having a fab time. Will need some excuse for a gathering of the clans when we get back.