Advertisement
Published: August 8th 2009
Edit Blog Post
After 6 weeks in Ho Chi Minh City it was time to bid a tearful farewell and head to Seoul (don't worry, I will be back in Vietnam very soon).
The Korean Air flight across was good, I slept most of the way and got a free upgrade to business class. I was met at the airport by the hotel transfer and quickly taken to my apartment in Fraser Place, my home for the week ahead.
The things I quickly noticed was how quiet Seoul was compared to Ho Chi Minh City. No motor bikes, no street vendors, no offers of personal services everytime I stuck my head out of the building. Although this was nice to begin with I soon missed the atmosphere and energy I had left behind.
The apartment itself was very comfortable, including a kitchen area (meaning I could cook for the first time in 6 weeks, if a microwave meal counts as cooking), lounge area, bathroom and bedroom. The downside to the facility was the breakfast. Although the selection was good, the room was far too small. With hundreds of guests all waiting to be fed, it becomes a bit of a free
for all and there are very limited tables. Most mornings I had to wander around looking for an empty table or end up sharing with some of the smaller groups.
Seoul was nice, a smaller less sophisticated Tokyo. I did find it very easy to get lost though. The first time, it was not my fault; the map showed the hotel as being on the wrong street. A little bit of stubborn pride did make it worse though as I wandered around for over an hour convinced I was going in the right direction (I wasn't, even if the map had been right). There are no street signs in Seoul, although there are a number of small maps on the street. This is only useful if you know where you are going though. By day two I was tired of random walking so opted for the subway system. The subway was excellent. Very easy to purchase tickets, the machines have an English or Korean option. The subway maps are easy to follow and once on the platform there is clear indication of where to get the train for the station you want. It is clear they have spent a
lot of time on their subway. The tracks are not open, there is a fence along the platform with doors at the appropriate places. You wait at the doors and then make your way onto the train when it arrives. I had previously been impressed with Japanese train stations, with their places to queue marked out on the platform, but this was a step beyond that.
Yes, the subway is great; until you arrive at your destination. Stations have multiple exits which can be very spread out at ground level. This means that once you come above ground, you are instantly lost again. Most maps only have the station not each of the exits, so you really have no idea where you are. This is how I ended up getting lost most other times, reaching the surface only to find I was not exactly where the map said I would be.
Seoul can become very hot, so always make sure you have an emergency supply of water for those moments you get lost. I was not as prepared, so heat and dehydration added to my frustration and sore feet.
But really, despite these negatives, I enjoyed the
trip. Seoul is very clean, very safe and there is plenty to do, it is just very easy to get lost.
Anyway, I have maybe labored the point a little now (it is very easy to get lost), so I will tell you a little about the stuff I did in Seoul.
Gyeongbokgung is the grandest of the palaces in Seoul. Originally built during the Joseon Dynasty, it has been destroyed by fire and rebuilt several times. There are several parts to the palace, surrounded by beautiful gardens. It can take several hours to explore the whole complex, plus the National Folk Museum is accessed from here and the National Palace Museum is also available so a whole day might be worthwhile. I only had a few hours so had a good look around the garden and main buildings. There is a sense of peace here and you will often come across people just sitting and relaxing, watching the ponds or the flowers. There is a changing of the guard ceremony every hour which is worth seeing if you can manage (I did).
Changdeokgung was originally the second palace, but served as the main palace whenever Gyeonbokgung
was being rebuilt. Like the primary, it has a mountain behind it and a stream in front (good feng shui). It also looks very similar to its neighbor, the architecture, colour and style are an almost exact match although this is a smaller complex. This palace is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and cannot be visited unless part of a tour group. This protects the palace, but I generally prefer wandering at my own pace rather than as part of a group. The highlight of this palace is the Secret Garden, a tranquil lily pond surrounded by some smaller buildings; this is where the king would relax and study. I could happily have stayed here for quite a while as it was relaxing just watching the water, but the guide soon ushered us on.
Changgyeonggung sits next door to Changdeokgung. Another smaller palace which again looks exactly the same as the previous two. This has some beautiful gardens again, and is a good substitute for the Secret Garden in that you can sit and stay for as long as you want.
Jongmyo houses the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens. Several shrines are dedicated to
their memory and house the tablets which are believed to contain their spirit. This is another UNESCO World Heritage Site but you can visit this one without a guide. It is quite a small complex, and although similar in style to the palaces the structure of the buildings is very different. It is worth seeing to round off the main sites of the Joseon Dynasty, but it is does not take long to see everything as the buildings are all closed off. There is a research library, but unless you are studying Korean history it is not really worth visiting here.
Now for some things I didn't do in Seoul.
I didn't see the Changing of the Guard at Namdaemun Gate. When I got there (I found it without any problem, no getting lost this time), it was closed for renovation.
I didn't visit Kukkiwon, the Taekwondo HQ. I tried to, I really tried. I just could not find it. I followed maps, I followed street signs, but everytime I just seemed to miss it. I am convinced I must have circled it a dozen times. In the end dehydration and heat got the best of me and
I opted for the air conditioning of my apartment.
I didn't to any taekwondo. The group I was supposed to visit were too late getting in touch with me so I did not manage to get any training (disappointed, but it would have been WTF not ITF style so maybe not too much of a loss).
There were some other places I wanted to visit, the War Memorial and Museum, Seodaemun Prison; but decided I did not want to get lost anymore so didn't.
I will maybe go back to Seoul one day, but I will take a guide next time. Lets see if I get lost then.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.077s; Tpl: 0.016s; cc: 8; qc: 45; dbt: 0.0465s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb