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Next Stop Pyongyang
No trains currently run between the two countries so I thought this sign was funny. A 100 km train ride from here could take you to the weirdest capital city on earth.I arrived back in the capital of South Korea on the afternoon of the 28th of June. I checked back into the hostel I had stayed in previously because the owners were very helpful and they had the cutest and most friendly golden retriever puppy imaginable. This time I was determined to see and get to the heart of the city that is the heart of the World's 12th biggest economy.
On my first short visit to Seoul my impression had been that ironically the city didn't have any soul. It seemed like the epitome of an Orwellian big city; massive skyscrapers linked by overpass freeways and an extensive public transit system. It didn't seem to have an underbelly or really anything at all that resembled character. On my second visit I quickly began to realize that I was at least partially wrong in my initial assessments.
Seoul may be the only city in the World where it is not unusual to see respectable businessmen passed out on park benches. Koreans love to party and since the commuter trains stop running at midnight and crime is negligent, they sometimes elect to sleep in the park. This way they can
Major Boulevard
Seoul's version of the Champs Elysees. The U.S. Embassy, the National Theatre, and several other important buildings lie on this road. get to work quickly the next day, as they are still downtown, and already wearing suits. Even on weeknights Seoul's streets are lined with sidewalk cafes where locals drink pints of Cass beer and shots of Soju; the local vodka. Meanwhile in Itaewon, the city's sizable expat community and off duty U.S. military personnel party into the wee hours at a number of bars and clubs. The English levels here are higher than in China's major cities and the people are infinitely more polite. Better yet, Korean women are some of the most attractive in Asia and never leave the house in anything less than high heels and flowing sun dresses.
Seoul is by some measures the World's second largest city, and when it's suburbs are included is home to 47% of South Korea's population. Even in a rather small country, this is a stunningly large amount of people to be concentrated in one city. The people of Seoul are friendly and polite partly because privacy and personal space can often seem like a far off luxury here. Seoul is also one of the World's most wired cities, with computer terminals at bus stations and in several restaurants. Wireless
Crazy Architecture
Once again Asia dominates North America in contemporary architecture. access is a prerequisite at even the cheapest hotels and some of the "Love Hotels" even have desktops in the rooms. This technology charged atmosphere is reinforced by the live TV that plays on the subways and buses. The fact that this thoroughly modern city lies only 45 km from North Korea, one of the World's most backward countries, makes it all the more striking.
Speaking of North Korea, a visit to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) between the Korea's is an absolute must on any visit to Seoul. It extends along the length of the entire border and is approximately four kilometres in width. The DMZ is still heavily land-mined and guarded by huge barbed wire fences on both sides. As a result you must take a guided tour to get into the DMZ and see the sights. The most incredible stop on my tour was a visit to a tunnel that North Korea had covertly dug to send armed spies into South Korea. The tunnel was damp and cold as it lies almost 100 metres below ground. It is also quite cramped and the South Korean government requires people to wear helmets while traversing the length of the
Seoul's Soul
Seoul has recently tried to create more parks and open spaces in the city. This river was under concrete for fifty years before being unearthed and turned into a park in the 1990's. tunnel. So far South Korea has found three of these tunnels that are estimated to take up to ten years for the North to quietly construct. On their way out of the one I visited, the North painted the walls black and when pressed later by the international community, claimed that the tunnel was simply a former coal mine. Not surprisingly, independent geologists have debunked this desperate lie.
The day I visited was foggy so my only view of North Korea was a misty view over the shared Han River. I did get to see the last train station on the Southern side and purchase some North Korean vodka. From a distance I was also able to see the North Korean propaganda village located within the DMZ, home to what they claim is the World's tallest flagpole. Perhaps the most ironic part of the legacy of the DMZ is how it has unintentionally become a haven for wildlife. Over fifty years of little human presence have turned the area into a home for several species of birds and other small wildlife. My guide informed me that unfortunately sometimes you still hear blasts from within the DMZ, that signal a
Scary Modern Art
Seoul is home to some of the coolest modern art I have ever seen in a city. This guy had to be fifty feet tall and seemed to be made entirely out of wicker. heavier animal triggering one of the ancient landmines.
My second trip to Seoul left me with a distinctly different impression of the city than the one I had after my first visit. Although far from my favourite Asian city, Seoul does have a unique charm even with its relatively expensive prices. On July 1st I didn't get a chance to celebrate Canada Day, as I had a 9 P.M. flight bound for The Philippines. I was headed there to meet Sean and finish my Asian odyssey.
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candy
non-member comment
thanks
My husband and I are heading to Seoul njext week and you just gave me some places to visit and must-see areas. thanks alot. What was the name of your hostel and the price/night? maybe we could stay there. We haventh found a hotel or anything, lol. But we heard its just as safe as Japan so we are not too worried. thanks