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Published: September 6th 2012
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Come to Korea... and speak Mandarin.
I met and was adopted by my three new Taiwanese housemates at around midnight last night (when I was shattered but still wide awake, thank you jetlag!) and, on their invitation, we spent the day together today.
In case I am accused of overinflating my (non-existent) skills in Mandarin, let me say that all three speak excellent English and pretty good Korean, so I am learning a lot!
Our first stop was the traditional village in Bukchon, just a few subway stops north of the Meong-Dong district where we are staying (which is full of little shops and restaurants that will bear further exploration later). Bukchon is famous for its Hanok houses - traditional Korean houses made of wood. Since many of the Hanok are modelled after the architecture in an era when SK was annexed to China, more than one house has old Chinese caligraphy on the door.
Apparently it's possible to stay in the Hanok (as a sort of swanky B&B), but we elected to take a leisurely stroll through the houses and up to the top of the village, which gives a nice view West over Gyeongbok Palace
and the Samcheong district.
I hadn't realised until then quite how much Seoul is built into the mountain/woods at its core. Most strange to see houses backing a forest, but not unpleasant.
We stopped for lunch at a traditional Korean Folk restaurant and had a traditional soup and a green bean pancake (and kimchee, of course - which, for the uninitiated is any sort of veg, but particularly cabbage, marinated in a hot pepper sauce and is generally delicious - which I have learnt is served with every meal as a sort of seasoning). Both delicious.
We tried to head for an "owl museum" (read, assorted owl-related chintz) which my new friends were quite eager to see. I was not entirely upset to discover that it isn't open Wednesdays. Although I did feel quite bad after I casually mentioned that the Korean Constitutional Court was nearby and they purposely altered our route to pass by so I could see it...
Next we headed South and West to the renowned Dongdaemun Market, which is as overwhelming in its bustle, sights and smells as any self-respecting souk. Great fun and fascinating - I made a mental note to
return for lunch sometime and sample the delicacies on offer (there were pigs' noses and trotters on display as well as live eel and plaice and something that looked and smelled lke steamed black pudding... not really a place for veggies, then! - except perhaps for the kimchee)
By this time I was seriously flagging, and was grateful enough to regroup and go for dinner - another cultural experience. We were seated at the metal tables and plastic chairs that seem to characterise traditional Korean restaurants, with a sunken gas ring in the middle. A huge metal bowl filled with broth, potatoes and two whole (but, I discovered, gutted) and raw chickens. Gas on, chicken cut up (with scissors...) and left to cook. Very tasty, but hard to eat delicately!
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