Banaue Rice Terraces: Memories through Photographs

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Sorting through my collections of digital photos dating way back, I came across those of a trip long forgotten.

Our little trek to the Cordillera Mountains to see the infamous Banuae Rice Terraces. Of course, it was Rob who I dragged along for the trip… as always.

It all started with just wanting to spend the weekend together. I don't quite remember why we went for such a rigorous trip but from the photos I have, the travel was worth the effort and time. Banaue is located in the Cordillera Mountains and is about 9 hours away from Manila. Since it is situated high up in the mountains, there is no other way to get there except by land. It's either you get there at the projected 9-hour travel or you'll arrive a few more hours later.

We would have loved to get on a direct bus to Banaue via the Auto Bus Lines. They have daily trips to the province. The thing was they only have one trip bound to the province that leaves every 10pm. Due to our schedules, we decided to take the route less traveled. Manila-Solano, Nueva Viscaya-Banuae Route.

From Cubao, we hopped on a bus to Solano, Nueva Viscaya at the Victory Liner bus station in Cubao. As I remember, they have hourly trips to Solano. We advised the conductor to drop us off at the Solona-Banaue jeepney terminal. Arriving at Solano was a relief since the bus ride took longer than expected because it decided to stop by at every frigging stopover there is!

The jeepney bound straight to Banaue wasn't filled up yet with passengers when we arrived. This is both a good and a bad thing. Reason why it's good is because we'll get decent seats, the reason why it's bad is because you'll have to wait for god knows how long for the jeepney to get filled to the brim with passengers. Luckily, we were on our way after about 30 minutes of waiting and fidgeting, arriving just as dusk came. The whole trip, which usually takes about 9 hrs, took us 11 staggering hours! We were planning to stay at the People's Lodge and Restaurant, which isn't very difficult to find since you only have to walk a couple of meters from the tricycle terminal. Thetricycle drivers would clamor for your attention in order for you to get them as your guide.

Mang Jun, the driver we met, qouted us I think Php1000-1200, which is a normal fee, for his services. This will cover the drive to the Banaue Rice Terraces and the long trip to the shaped like an amphitheater, Batad Terraces. We then arranged for him to pick us up around 6am in the morning. He said it's better to start early since Batad will not only be a long drive and the hike to and back the amphitheater is about 19kms.

People's Lodge and Restaurant room rates ranges from Php700-Php800 bucks a night. We were given a room with a mountainside view, bathroom with hot shower (that fluctuates) and two queen size beds. Room prices differ depends on the capacity of the room, dormitory style, and private with bathroom or not. We came to Banaue during the off peak season and there weren't a lot of tourists. It rained on the evening we arrived and we were crossing our fingers, hoping it would shine all through out our trek.

As our luck would have it, it didn't rain. Breakfast by the balcony was refreshing and it shows a nice view of the city. After breakfast, Mang Jun then lead us to his tricycle, to see the Terraces and take us around the city. The ride wasn't as comfortable as we would want it to be, but it was part of the whole experience. The roads aren't well paved, but then again that is to be expected. Banaue is a remote area and very far from civilization. Electricity only reaches the city and I think in the mornings, there’s none at all. Just shows how my country's government works, but that's a different blog.

We first went to one of the viewpoints to see the Banaue Rice Terraces in its entirety. It was purely magnificent. To think that MY ancestors actually carved the mountain with their hands to create those terraces was totally amazing. Mang Jun took us also to another viewpoint where souvenir shops were lined up. It was there that we saw an old Igorot lady dressed in her traditional clothes. Most Igorots knows how to speak English and barely knows Filipino. The people at the store said that the Igorot lady was about 80-90 yrs old already. This was shocking 'coz she walked her way from her house to the viewpoint by foot with no one assisting her except her little cane. If you want a picture taken with her, you do need to pay them, 'coz that is exactly what they do. They get dressed up in traditional garb so the tourists would pay them to get a picture.

They say that the terraces in Banaue doesn't compare to the one in Batad. And the way to the best means you have to undergo a 19km mountain path hike plus a 20-meter drop to get to the amphitheater! The trek was definitely long and tiring, but Rob and I enjoyed the walk because we did it at our own pace (more so, my pace). Halfway through, we could see some of the roofs of the houses on the village! This made us so happy... but then again it still took us anoth half an hour or so. You will know you are almost there if you get to a kind of check-out point where they will warn you about the the 20-meter drop you have to go through o reach the village. We rested for a bit and had a cola... actually it's more of, you are obliged to buy an 8-ounce, barely cold, cola for more than it's worth. But hey, Banaue, even in it's grandeur and splendor is a rural community, whose lives aren't close to being middle class. Life (or money) is difficult for them there, so what's a few bucks more if you can help?

The 20-meter drop was scary... but the descent to the village at the center of the Rice Terraces was a lot more frightening. Each terrace was like 3-4 feet high. There's no "road" down. We had to really pass through the stones that would shape the terraces. It's like going down humungous stairs with no handrails! It was difficult and we were taking a long time to get down, thus causing human traffic. The Igorot's dialect is somewhat close to Ilocano, which I can understand. I knew the Igorot's who jumped from one stone to next mumbled on that we were very slow! It's been so funny and embarrassing that Rob and I just let them go ahead of us.

When we got to the village around lunch, there was a festival going on. I don't quite remember participating in it, 'coz by the time we got there, Rob was hungry and my feet were hurting. We settled ourselves in one little pseudo inn/restaurant. The weirdest thing was the dish that would consist of canned goods like sardines or corned beef costs A LOT! I guess, their logic for that was the way the goods were transported. After all, Batad was really deep in the mountains and is kilometers away from the city. We had mixed rice and sardines and chopsuey (vegetable sauté). The water/cola is not cold. If you're going to ask for ice, you won't get any. Electricity in Batad is a problem yet to be solved.

Another Igorot approached us before our lunch was served. He offered a free guide to a better route back up to the checkout point. The catch is, we needed to buy a souvenir from his shop. We agreed to his proposition 'coz it took us forever to get down. An easier route was most definitely welcomed! The hike back up was a lot quicker and painless! The checkpoint on top belonged to the Igorot (I fail to remember his name... he does look like our driver Mang Jun) who helped us out. As promised, we bought Rob a small-carved wooden necklace.

It was harder getting back and we were both worn-out. We walked so slow that halfway through, we met up with Mang Jun. He said he was worried 'coz we weren't back yet so he went searching for us. Too bad, his tricycle was not with him when we saw him. The path we were hiking weren't meant for tricycles to traverse so we had to walk all the way down until we arrived to the start of the hike. To just relax on a bumpy tricycle ride was heaven. I mean, we just went through a frigging 19km hike and actually survived it! Though the trek was physically demanding and exhausting, to be rewarded with just the sight of one of the Wonders of World, is just absolutely extraordinary.

I just hope that this wonder will be maintained by the next generation who will inherit it. The Igorot we met in Batad told us that the reconstruction and maintenance pf the terraces is a skill and knowledge that are no longer taught to the younger generation. Only the elders know how to keep the terraces in it's glory. The young, being woed by commercialism and capitalism tend to leave their ancestors heritage in search for a better life in the city and refuse to learn the old ways. It would be a shame to learn that what was created by inguenity might be ruined by modernization.

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PS: Tips, Pointers and Info's!

1. There are several bus lines that travel straight to Banaue. Reservation is needed though.

Auto Bus
Dimasalang St. cor. Laong Lan St.
Sampaloc Manila.
Tel: [phone]
(this is near the Univeristy of Santo Tomas)

Dangwa Tranco
832 Aurora Blvd. cor. Driod St.
Cubao, Quezon City
Tel: [phone]

2. You may also travel via the Manila-Solano,Nueva Viscaya-Banaue Route. You just need to hop on a bus bound to Solano, ask to be dropped at the jeepney terminals who will have the Solano-Banaue trips.

Victory Liner
EDSA cor East Ave, Quezon City
Tel: [phone]

3. Travel by jeepney might take sometime because they fill the jeepneys first with passengers before leaving.

4. In case you might want to stay at the:

People's Lodge and Restaurant
([phone]

5. Hot showers are a necessity, since Banaue is hella cold. Well, that is if you're like me who chills easy.

6. Go to Banaue during harvest season where all the paddies are filled with planted rice. This is around May, the last month for the summer season.

7. If your travel group is more than 4-5, you can rent a jeepney for I think twice the price of a tricycle. It'll be cheaper since you can share the fee.

8. Php20-Php50 bucks would be enough (I think), to pay the Igorots if you have a picture taken with them.

9. Bring water! Lots of it! Water sold along the checkpoints to Batad terraces is costly!

10. Keep an online album of your photos. It sure helps in jogging the memories of way past.

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Photos

Overlooking the City
While having breakfast at the balcony of the People's Lodge and Restaurant.

Viewpoint
Rob with our hired tricycle driver, Mang Jun.

Igorot
A native of the Cordillera province. They usually dress up on their tribal clothes for the tourists.

On the Way to Batad
Around the mountain passes, you will constantly see terraces down the ravine.

Half Way!
Almost there to the Rice Terraces that is shaped like an Amphitheater.

Amphitheater Rice Terraces!
Upon arriving, we stayed at one of the "inns" to eat lunch. The hike to the center of the terraces was physically tiring!

Hike Back Up
The hike down to see the village at the center of base of the terraces was arduos, the hike back up was a lot more easier!

Resting for a Bit
An Igorot approached us while we were waiting for our food to be served. He offered to guide us to an easier pathway provided we buy a souvenir from his shop located on top of the terraces.

The Morning After
It was foggy the next morning. The rain's arrival was impecable! We were on our way home by the time it poured.

Banaue Rice Terraces
At the center of the amphitheater is the small village.