Namche Bazar again

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Two days into the hike and I'm back in the homely and familiar sounds, sights, and smells of Namche.

The flight in to Lukla was beautiful unless you don't like turbulence - the wee planes get chucked around quite visicously by the mountains. The landing was successful which is all one can ask of Lukla - it took a thump, a fierce gunning in reverse, and a couple of swerves to save us from missing the turning into the hard standing at the top.

There's a cosy familiarity about the hills this time. The trails are quiet, the tea houses are near-empty, the Nepalese mountain folk are even more relaxed than usual. Compared to last time (Spring 2011), there is nobody here, and that's wonderful.

Started the hike to Phakding by leading the trail to make sure the guides knew I didn't need waiting for. It worked - Jangbu (my climbing guide) laughed "you know this trail - you lead". Jangbu has quitesome experience. Sixteen years in the hills have included an ascent to the top of the world (last year), six ascents of Imja Tse, four of Pokalde, three of Lobuche East. But the crowning glory was a Nepalese only group of ten who climbed Ama Dablam (a seriously technical 8000m+ mountain) last year making the return trip from Lukla in a mighty impressive seven days. It'll take me that long to get to base camp of the humble Imja Tse. They carried a torch to the summit to light as a beacon.

Hike to Phakding in two hours and back to the same lodge I stayed in last time. Hike to Namche through familiar territory again took 5 hours (with a stop for tea and a few stops for water and sock adjustment). Pause at the top of the ascent to take in the first view of the mighty Sagarmatha (a.k.a. Chomolungma, a.k.a. Everest). The day is tunningly clear and the views are fantastic.

In fact, it's been sunny and clear here since mid-October. It's an exceptional season but not all of that is a good thing. The last monsoon brought very little rain at all so everything is very dry (apart from the gushing glacial rivers). Streams that were pouring with water last time I was here are bone dry. Down in the lowlands that depend on this region for their water, the situation is even worse. Climate change in effect again I'm afraid. Sad conversation to have with my guides as the whole of Nepal knows there's little they can do about it other than hope for a better monsoon next summer.

So tomorrow we head up the valley for Tengboche. If it's this clear again, the views of Ama Dablam, Sagarmatha and the neighbours should be astounding. I know it's annoying of me to say that without posting pics but I don't have that luxury here i'm afraid.

Aside from a mild shortness of breath, I haven't felt any of the altitude yet but I do feel tired - feels like I haven't recovered from getting here yet. It is truly lovely to be back here though and the legs haven't complained too much yet.

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Comments

[amy may]

amy may has something to say
This is a message from Amy May: I love you.

[mach]

I love you too Amy May - thank you. Keep smiling :)

[Martin Gilkes]

Hello!
Great stuff, glad to hear all is going to plan. Go easy on Jangbu, don't go too quickly :) Want to see some photos at some point mind... Gilksey

[mach]

Cheers Gilkesy - Jangbu had nothing to fear, trust me. Strong as an ox and calm as a monk.