Tikhedunga - Ghorepani

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Determined to attain vengeance upon the Deutschlanders for the thrashing at rummy, Mantos and I gave them a 30 minute head start before commencing the devlish clamber that is the Ulleri steps. Ever been on a stepper in the gym? I can tolerate about 5 minutes - this was an unbroken 2 hour climb under sweltering sun - literally thousands of steps. Still, we passed both the Germans and an equally pleasant (and physically inferior) pair of Aussies - there are no better folks to beat as far as national pride is concerned!

Thankfully the trail leveled out, insofar as it ever does here (i.e. drag up, roll down but no steps) via a 1st dip into the jungle, depositing us eventually at Ghorepani, a splendid petite village commanding magnificent views of Annapurna South and Annapurna I. There are several Annapurna sequels, whilst traditionalists hold that the original is the best, "Annapurna II: The Wrath of Khan" is a personal favourite.

A few “home comforts” at The Sunny Hotel:
1. Lance Armstrong room with a view - all the rooms are named after a sports legend, yet inexplicably despite the presence of a Gerard and a Lampard, no Beckham, not even a Bobby Charlton! My complaints were met with a shrug.
2. Western style toilets - Furlong approved (you’ll have to see the backdated entries on the Tibetan escapade to appreciate that one)
3. Scalding hot showers
4. Clothes drying racks assembled around the furnace, prompting showering with all dirty laundry
5. TV one night too late to watch United ejected from Champions League

More Daal Bhat, more Coke, supplemented by “Mountain Spaghetti” (noodles with ketchup), prior to bed and immediate kip at 7.30pm (altitude makes me sleepy) in anticipation of a 4.30am alarm call for sunrise at the best viewpoint on this trek - Poon Hill.

Life on the trail is simple, lacking luxury but lacking anxiety. New friends come easily. I like it here and I'm daydreaming about coming back for a proper 20+ day trek. Karl, Graham & Soph (if we lied and pretended you could snowbaodr the Himalaya) would love it.

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