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Published: September 12th 2007
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Me and the Dhualagiri
Posing for a photo on our 2nd to last day of the trek. We were really lucky to catch such good weather and have amazing views. I arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal after a quick and easy flight from Delhi. I spent two days in the city wandering its narrow streets, watching Maoist supporters protest for their dubious reasons, and personally investigating the delicious Nepali food at local restaurants. After my two days expired I was taken by taxi, along with my guide and Sherpa to the village of Besisahar, roughly 6 hours west of Nepal's capitol city. Besisahar is the typical starting point for those choosing to complete the full Annapurna Circuit trek, roughly a 17-21 day journey around the mighty Annapurna mountain range, finishing in the larger city of Pokhara. The Annapuran Conservation Area Project (ACAP) is one of the largest protected sanctuaries in Nepal and full of a wide-variety of stunning scenery. The Annapurna range itself is also home to some of the highest peaks in the world, including #6, the Dhaulagiri at 26,795ft, #10, Annapurna I at 26,545ft, and #16, Annapurna II at 26,040ft. The other mighty mountains that I had the luxury of standing in awe of everyday were Annapurna III at 24,931ft, Annapurna IV at 24,832ft, Annapurna South at 24,000ft, Gangapurna at 24,598ft, Macchapuchhre at 23,090ft, and Thilicho Peak at 23,535ft. ACAP
Annapurna III and Annapurna South
View of the stunning mountains from the porch of our guest house in Ghandruk on Day 16. also includes the highest altitude lake in the world, Lake Thilicho at 16,500ft, which we hiked to via a 2-day side trip from the main trail.
What is perhaps the most incredible part of Annapurna trek is the breadth of scenery and climactic variations you encounter along the way. In the lower elevations below 6,000ft, the geography is that of dense tropical jungle with monkeys, exotic birds, water buffalo's, and nasty little leeches to top it all off. Above 6,000ft. to perhaps the 12,000ft. looks remarkably similar to the Sierra Nevada mountains in California. Pine trees, granite rocks and a much more dry climate existed during that part of the trek. Once we got up over 12,000ft. the landscape looked quite similar to that of Ladakh in India. High-altitude desert scenery with little to no trees, tons of prehistoric-looking rock formations, huge and furry yak's all about, and the mighty snow-clad peaks of the Himalayas. In reflection I would have to say that our days in the jungle were my least favorite. Despite the fact that trekking in the South Asian jungles is really quite an experience, with 1-ton water buffalo's appearing around blind corners and monkeys jumping from
Village of Besisahar
Exploring the villag the day before we officially started the trek. tree to tree, I had the least fun during that portion of the trek. Most of Nepal is still amidst the end of its monsoon season so at the lower, tropical elevations we were constantly getting rained on, attacked by leeches, and covered in sweat from the heat. Once we made it up above the clouds the temperature cooled off and we avoided most of the nasty downpours that occur during this time of year. It also allowed me the chance to witness the grandeur of the mighty Himalayas, up close and personal. I have difficulty finding words to describe the feeling that overwhelms you when you get up at 6am, look out the window from my warm, comfy sleeping bag and look face-to-face at raw mountain peaks standing over 26,000ft. I had several, what you might call "emotional" experiences where I was overcome with a sense of obsolescence when being so close to mountains that have a habit of killing the people who try and climb them. In fact, Macchapuchhre, aka "Fish Tail" at 23,090ft. is the only peak in Nepal that has never been summited by crazy mountain climbers. More than 2 dozen people have died attempting to
River Crossing!
This is what happens when roads wash away. reach its very technical summit, leading the Nepali government to declare the mountain "holy" and banning anyone else from trying to climbing it. The other mighty peaks including Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, II, II, and IV are only rarely climbed my mountaineers. More people summit Mt. Everest in a single, popular year than have ever summited those peaks in their history. The mountains in the Annapurna range are significantly more jagged, technical, and dangerous than climbing Everest is, creating a great deal of mystique and respect for their awesome status.
All in all I found that trek to actually not be very difficult. Having acclimatized myself very well while trekking in the high altitudes of Ladakh in India, I had no trouble navigating my way through the Annapurna circuit, over Thorung Pass at 17,872ft. and eventually back down to Pokhara. However, day 10 when we descended 5,467ft. reeked havoc on my knees and legs and left me uncomfortably sore for the next few days. Day 14 was also a particularly un-fun day, as it started to absolutely pour down rain at 6am, never stopping all day, and we ascended over 3,676ft. from the village of Tatopani up to Ghorepani.
Macchapuchhre, aka Fishtail
The holiest mountain in Nepal and the only peak left unclimbed. Summit is 23,090ft. What didn't help was that the night before I stayed up until midnight drinking "chang" (local beer made from rice) and playing cards with a Scotsman and Irishman who seemed to be drinking their way through the entire trek. I got up at 6:30 with a terrible headache only to be greeted by torrential rain and endless uphill walking. Other than those two delightful days the trek was really amazing and I had a fantastic time chatting with my guide and Sherpa, meeting other trekkers, reading my books, and devouring any and all delicious Nepali food that was put in front of me. The common Nepali meal that most people eat while trekking is called Dahl(lentils) Baht(rice) and made up of a few key ingredients including a heaping pile of rice, vegetable curry, lentil soup, chopped salad, and sometimes a non-veg curry made from buffalo meat. For most of the past 2 months I've been eating a predominantly vegetarian diet, not really by choice but out of circumstance, and I have to say that it makes you feel healthy and full of energy, maybe there's really something to it? It might be the fact that I've been walking endlessly over
Smiles From the Trail
On day 3 of walking through the hot and humid jungle. the last 40 days or so, but the all-veg diet and high-altitude trekking has really put me in the best shape I've ever been in, long-distance walking at least. There are really few things I enjoy more in life than getting good exercise and experiencing incredible natural scenery that makes your jaw drop. Much of the trek was spent in splendid isolation, removed from incessant car horns, city pollution, aggressive handicraft salesmen, and the general mahem that one encounters in South Asian cities. It was delightfully refreshing to have found a place where quiet and peace prevail over village life, especially being in one of the most densely populated parts of the world.
So now I'm back in Pokhara, nursing a hangover I inflicted on myself from spending most of last night at a great blues bar nearby my hotel. The weather here is much hotter than any other place I've been in Nepal and the sunny afternoons quickly turn into nightmarish floods when the monsoon pays its visit. I'll be spending most of the next 9 days back in Kathmandu before I take a quick flight to Lukla, Nepal where I will begin the 20-day Mt. Everest Base
Peaking Through
The massive Gangapurna popping its head through the clouds at 24,598ft. Camp trek.
During the trek I kept a daily log of how many miles we walked, what the altitude change was, and other interesting stats on my journey through the Annapurna Conservation Area Project. It was my way of feeling like I was doing something official and important so I've included the stats below. Enjoy.
Day 1: 8/24
Besisahar(2,592) - Bahun Danda(3,609)
12 miles (+1,017)
Day 2: 8/25
Bahun Danda(3,609) - Tal(6,102)
12 miles (+2,493)
Day 3: 8/26
Tal(6,102) - Chame(8,924)
14 miles (+2,822)
Day 4: 8/27
Chame(8,924) - Ghyaru(12,111)
13 miles (+3,187)
Day 5: 8/28
Ghyaru (12,111) - Manang (11,581)
8 miles (-530)
Day 6: 8/29
Manang(11,581)
rest day/acclimatize
Day 7: 8/30
Manang(11,581) - Thilicho Base Camp(14,190)
10 miles (+2609)
Day 8: 8/31
Thilicho Base Camp(14,190) - Thilicho Lake(16,500) - Yak Kharka(13,259)
17.5 miles (+2310, then -3241)...long day
Day 9: 9/1
Yak Kharak(13,259) - Thorung Pass High Camp(15,807)
6 miles (+2548)
Day 10: 9/2
Thorung Pass High Camp(15,807) - Thorung Pass(17,872) - Muktinath(12,408)
9 miles (+2067, then -5467)...really long day
Day 11: 9/3
Muktinath(12,408) - Marpha(8,810)
15 miles (-3598)
Day 12: 9/4
Marpha(8,810) - Ghasa(6,879)
Morning Valley
A few hours into the morning hike after leaving the village of Tal. 12 miles (-1931)
Day 13: 9/5
Ghasa(6,879) - Tatopani(5,808)
7 miles (-1017)
Day 14: 9/6
Tatopani(5,808) - Ghorepani(9,484)
10 miles (+3676)
Day 15: 9/7
Ghorepani(9,484) - Ghandruk(6,435)
7.5 miles (-3049)
Day 16: 9/8
Ghandruk(6,435) - Dhampus(5,445)
12 miles (-990)
Day 17: 9/9
Dhampus(5,445) - Phedi(5,167) - Pokhara(2,046)
4 miles (-278)
Total mileage: 172
Day 1 - Day 10 elevation increase: +14,790ft.
Day 10 - Day 17 elevation decrease: -13,761ft.
Biggest single-day elevation increase: +3,676ft.
Biggest single-day elevation decrease: -5,467ft.
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kendra
non-member comment
no words
honestly, I'm so envious. Words don't do justice. Party on.