Seven Years Into Brett

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Although my sojourn into the pristine nature of the Himalayan mountains was only 15 days in length, it felt like an eternity, exploring the timeless expanse of my inner nature. And on those occasions when the stillness of my soul reflected the austere beauty of my surroundings, I found myself above time, dwelling on that threshold between the apparent separation of spirit and creation. These were the pinnacles of my adventure; the marriage of philosophy and experience of wisdom, but they would not have been possible, nor are they less important, than those troughs of loneliness, anxiety and despair that I first had to cross.

Waxing lyrical aside, the practicalities of embarking on a solo trek around the Annapurna Circuit were previously few, owing to the existence of tea-houses along the length of the trek and a fairly well-defined trail that has been used by locals and porters for centuries. That is, until the Nepalese government decided to pass money-making legislation that requires trekkers to hire either a guide or a porter through an agency, in order to obtain the neccessary trekking permit for entry along the route. Trekkers without a permit were to be prosecuted by the law (not something to take lightly in Nepal)

This proved at first to be a significant bummer for me, as placing absolute trust in myself and surrendering to the flow of life would be somewhat hampered by the constant presence of a Nepalese chaperone. Luckily, I have significant experience in maneuvering around obstacles like silly laws, and I put my previously found skills to work. Indeed, after a combination of hard work, bribery, bullshitting and unbending belief, I had myself one permit and a pretend guide to get my through the first checkpoint 😊

Taking a local bus to the entry point was not my first or last exercise in patience, as we had to wait two hours for a bus drivers strike that had blocked a few kms of traffic on either side. About on hour later, whilst going up a seriously steep hill with a few hundred people on board (and the roof), the accelerator cable snapped. Gotta hand it to these Nepalese though - best mechanics in Asia. Half an hour later we chugged our way to my first town and checkpoint. Cest la vie.

The trek arround the Annapurna sanctuary was arduous and exhilirating. I have never been so completely alone and challenged, yet felt such freedom and liberation than during the previous few weeks. Bullshitting through Maoist checkpoints, getting lost, getting stuck in a snow-storm, getting sick, eating yak-burgers, sharing dinner and a laugh with locals in their kitchens and facing some of my most primal fears - the experiences were as varied and beautiful as the landscape.

When I arose early on the final morning to watch the sunrise illuminate the mountain range I had just circumnavigated, a tremendous feeling of gratitude and well-being enveloped me. Almost 300km in length and with app 15000m change in elevation, the yardsticks of my external journey yet pale in comparison to those within. I remembered the words of a guide, shared over some lemon tea, "In Nepal, the people we are poor, but our hearts, they are rich". I have to agree, as these people are both wonderfully friendly and inquisitive. It drives home the realization that happiness is state of being, not of ownership. As I leave Nepal, I know it is with a richer heart and a deeper appreciation for the gift of life.

There is magic in this world, like a beautifully sweet symphony playing constantly in the backround. Most of the time, we are so stuck in our thoughts that we don't even know it's there and life seems cold and hard. But sometimes, we stop the endless thinking and just feel, opening our hearts to the joy of creation. Just exalting in being. Then magic happens, entering these newly opened doorways to our souls. And we are never the same.

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Photos

Donkeys : dig their hairdos
The lead donkeys in the caravan get the funky hairdo. This is the way that supplies are carried throughout this region, as there are no roads

My Nepali girlfriend
I was gonna tell you, Shivvy.

Maoist checkpoint
They charge all the tourists 100 Rupees per day, as a "people's tax". I wasn't keen to pay 1600 rupees, so I told him I was a poor volunteer who couldn't even afford a guide. After much persuasion, he broke down at 500 rupees. He took this photo, after I told him I was a socialist.

Waterfall
Love it. Water. Falling.

Valley plateau
After climbing a narrow valley for three days, it suddenly opened up. The photo doesn't do the great expanse justness.

Entering buddhist country
Prayer wheels, temples and yes prayer flags adorning everything of significance. The colours of the flags represent the 5 elements.

Like a huge bowl
If skateboarding was big in Nepal...

Reciting Mantras
See this everywhere..old people just parking off and praying

Warming up round the cooking fire
The couple are some Germans at the lodge.

Into the wilde white yonder
Having snowed overnight, the whole valley was transformed. I decided to push on with my planned hike - 4 hours and about 16 kms to the next town..
Check out the ultra-modern bag-cover.

2 Hours later
After losing the trail for some time, due to the snow-covering, I was pretty stoked to see I was on the right track. It was about half a foot deep and snowing hard at this time.