Holy Himalayas!

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Namaste from Nepal. Our flight from Delhi introduced us to Nepal's amazing scenery at 30,000 feet. As we approached Kathmandu above a blanket of cloud, the jagged peaks of some of the worlds highest mountains sliced though. The mountain tops were clearly visible and it was then that we began to appreciate just how large and imposing the mountains are.

Visas to Nepal are purchased on arrival for $30. Obtaining them was an interesting experience. Having been unable to change our Indian Rupees to US $ in India we tried to do so from the currency exchange in Kathmandu Airport. However, they would not accept Indian Rupee notes over 100 - we only had 1000's. We approached the visa desk with our dilemma, who seemed shocked that we didn't have US $ (because every European does?!).

After confirming that we can buy the visa with Nepalese Rupees they advised us to use the ATM outside the airport to withdraw the money. Therefore, technically, illegally entering their country which was a little strange. So after withdrawing the cash and making our way back to the visa desk triumphantly with our Nepalese Rupees they informed us that they could still not accept it to buy the visa - only US $. So then we had to change our Nepalese Rupees to US $ at the exchange desk before finally purchasing our visa and entering the country legally. It was a bizarre process indeed, but one which they were quite (refreshingly) relaxed about.

We had a hotel booked in an area of Kathmandu called Thamel. We were picked up at the airport by a very nice welcoming man who pressed his hands together and bowed whispering a namaste. We liked it here already. Our main priority was to organise a trek and then discover Kathmandu when we return. So after spending 3 nights in Kathmandu sampling the local shops, cafes and restaurants we caught a bus to Pokhara - Nepal's second city by a lake.

We organised a trek to last for 10 days around the Annapurna Himalayan Range. The trek would take us up to 3210m above sea level at which we were anticipating some exceptional views of the mountains. The trek proved to be much more difficult than either of us had imagined and involved us scaling huge hills, descending into valleys a walking across rickety old bridges. We were walking on average for 5-6 hours a day and covered about 180km in total.

The accommodation on the trek was very very very basic. Electricity was a luxury at times at some of the lodgings we stayed in. Rooms consisted of two beds (sometimes a double) with a thin mattress stuffed with sheep's wool which was as old as the Himalayas and probably as comfortable as rock. The walls were thin plywood which ensured we would hear someone fart 3 rooms away. Each new room ritual consisted of bug killing. However, they always seemed to return with a vengeance when we put our light on to sleep in the evening as a whole manner of insects thumped against the outside of our window, some looking like big flying cockroaches. The villages that contained these lodgings clung to the steep hillsides so it was impressive they were even built in the first place.

Bathroom facilities were interesting, being outside our room, in fact usually outside of the building, and down some dodgy stairs. Toilets were usually adjoining and squat-style. A mid-night pee consisted of scrambling around in the pitch black darkness for our boots, dodging moths, and then falling down some stairs into the toilet probably only to miss the hole anyway. So yes, toilets were not a pleasant experience.

Showers were touch and go. They were usually concrete floors and walls with a shower pipe protruding from the wall. Hot water made us extremely happy but we didn't always have it. On one occasion we only had a hot bucket of water to clean ourselves with. However after a long day of walking, feet aching and sweating profusely it was bliss just to rinse off.

The food was great. Most of what we ate was all locally produced on the surrounding hills and picked just a few hours before we eat it. For example, on a typical day the porridge for breakfast was grown on the adjoining farm and the vegetable soup for lunch was made with fresh picked veg. For dinner our favourite meal was traditional Nepalese dal bhat. This consists of rice, potato curry, lentils, spicy pickle, spinach/green veg and a piece of padad. The best thing about dal bhat was it was all-you-can-eat and very healthy. Whenever we ran low on any of the above they offered to fill it up. Again, all of the ingredients were fresh and grown on the surrounding farms.

We met quite a few interesting characters on our trek and the village life and culture was really interesting to observe. The main occupation is farming and the hills are littered with corn and rice paddy fields with the harvest approaching in the coming weeks. Buffalo, goats and chickens roam freely along the trail and donkeys are used to transport goods between each village as they are totally inaccessible by roads. The Nepalis are used to the long distances and the heavy climbs between villages which is evident from their huge calves! One old guy we met was completely hammered on the local drink called Ruksi. After rambling on to us and dribbling everywhere he still set off at great speed up a steep incline of 3,600 steps - we never even caught up with him.

The trek allowed us to come into contact with many other travellers and locals which really enriched our experience and made it even more enjoyable than we could have imagined.

On another occasion we spoke to a man who owned a lodge we stayed in who used to be in the militia, and based in India. He was telling us about his sons working in Qatar and Malaysia, one of which was returning home that day after 4 years - he was already on the Ruksi celebrating. He told us how he was earning just 10,000 Nepalese Rupees a month - about 80 pounds! His pride was bursting through his gleaming smile however. He was completely off his noggin celebrating his return. We joined him for a sip of Ruksi (which was awful) and spent the evening playing cards in a precariously balanced hut on the mountain.

On our second day of the trek, on a particularly arduous climb we witnessed the aftermath of one of the sacrifices that take place on Buddha's birthday. It was not a pleasant sight as we saw a group approach us in single file. The first man was carrying the head of a sheep still oozing blood onto the track and the two boys behind were carrying pails of its blood.

Nabin, our guide throughout the trek was excellent - and only 23. Guides are essential to negotiate the terrain and generally just not get lost. His English was perfect and he was incredibly articulate. He also spoke Japanese, which he learnt in 7 months. We spent most evenings with him playing cards and learning more about the culture, religion, politics and history of Nepal. We learnt much of the recent ousting of the monarchy and the birth of the Federal Republic.

Nabin also explained much of what was happening in each local village. In one we discovered that a girl was married at just 14 and pregnant with her first baby, which she lost - she is now 21 with 2 children, but looks more like 35. On another occasion we found out that the owner of a lodge we stayed at was very ill one night with kidney problems. She had to be carried to hospital by 3 guys who each took it in turn to carry her on a basket on their backs. The hike took us 3 days to complete. They started at midnight in the pitch black and carried an 80kg woman which is an incredible feat to contemplate.

The main reason for the trek was to experience the scenery, which was not disappointing at all. It was utterly breathtaking. Every step we took introduced us to a huge variety of rich vistas. From amazing waterfalls, thick green forestry and rolling hills to sky-reaching mountains. Each morning we were greeted by the sight of the soaring Himalayas, which got closer every day. We did have a couple of rainy days, which were also spectacular. The clouds would encircle around the village, blinding everything from view and one evening we were actually within the storm itself which was incredible.

The highest point of our trek also heralded the best views. We trekked to the top of Poon Hill (3210m) to watch the sunrise over the Annapurna Range. The sight was incredible and the pictures really cannot do it justice. Each mountain was clearly visible and felt so close, despite still being quite far away which is testimony to how gigantic they are. Each morning on our trek we were treated to similar views as we pulled aside our curtain to see the soaring milky-white peaks each time. It is hard to describe but they are so large and imposing they are almost scary and immediately command ones respect.

Towards the end of the trip we trekked to a natural hot spring which was heated by the rocks below to 35 degrees. There were 3 ponds in total, each with steam rising as it hits the cool air. This hot spring was extra special because it was located next to a thundering river which thrust itself over stubborn boulders. It was such a contrast to lay there steaming our throbbing limbs whilst the angry torrent rushed by. Annoyingly I ripped my trousers on the way back for which I grumbled about for some time.

The descent to the hot spring, as well as other parts of the trek was infested with leeches. These blood-sucking parasites crawled up our boots and feasted on our bare-skinned legs. Thanks to our guide, we were well prepared for this and armed with salt (which they apparently hate) and trousers tucked into our socks, we survived unscathed. We would have to stop every few steps to flick them off our boots but they did not manage to get through our defence's.

On the final night of our trek we stayed in a lodge in a place called Saranghot which is not far from Pokhara itself. We got up extra early to watch the sunrise over the mountains. We climbed up a hill and through a military look-out post and watch this majestic sight. The main peaks of the Annapurna range were in front of us, lying dormant. Slowly and magically the sun threw its rays above their peaks lighting up the air in an abundance of colour. We sat there stroking a few stray dogs, which had been companions for much of our trip, and drank in every moment. It is hard to describe but the experience was almost metaphysical and was a very suitable way to commence our final descent.

By the end of the trek we were exhausted. It had been a really tough physical experience, made more difficult because of the altitude, blisters and leeches. However it was the most incredibly enjoyable and rewarding experience of our travels so far. The funny, hospitable and in some cases downright weird people and extravagant views have made for an unforgettable experience.

We are now resting in Pokhara, enjoying the lake side views before catching a bus back to Kathmandu.

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Photos

Gorepani Common Room
Sock Drying!