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Published: June 28th 2009
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Day 147
This morning we left our key at reception with the lady sleeping behind the counter and headed to the subway for the last time. The subway took us direct to Beijing Railway Station where we found the correct waiting room for our train.
We boarded Train K23, carriage 6 at 7am and found our deluxe cabin (berths 9 and 10) which would be home for the next 30 hours. Compared to the trains we have travelled on in China this seemed like luxury. Our wooden cabin had a set of large bunks, an armchair, wardrobe and shared washing facilities with our neighbours. The K23 tourist train left Beijing at 7.45am prompt.
The Trans-Mongolian Express is the famous train line that goes from Beijing in China to Siberia in Russia. It then meets up with the Trans-Siberian route which is the longest continuous railway track in the world. The phased building of this magnificent railway started in 1891, the first passengers riding the first completed phase was in 1900.
The train travelled through Beijing and many other large cities in the north east of China. Approximately an hour north of Beijing we were in the hills,
the train found its route directly through the mountains, via dozens of tunnels. We also saw many brickworks and power stations along the route. The weather was warm again today and the fan in our cabin and the windows in the carriage did not keep the temperatures low at all, which made for a very warm journey.
The train made several small stops along the way and at times travelled slowly. For lunch we sat in the Chinese restaurant car and had our last sweet and sour pork. It was not the best we had tasted in China, but it was still enjoyable as we watched the changeable scenery out of the windows. Even after hours of travelling we would pass huge cities, seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
As the sun went down the scenery was more barren and flat as we approached the border of China, where we knew the train would stop for several hours. At 8.30pm we handed our passports and departure cards over to the Chinese officials who boarded the train. A further temperature check proved that we did not have signs of swine flu and the check for stowaways also proved clear.
We then waited for the train to be moved into the large shed for the bogies (wheels) to be changed.
For the train geeks reading this the Chinese railway system operates on a standard gauge like in Europe, whereas in Mongolia and Russia train gauges are 3 ½ inches wider. Once each carriage was separated, large hydraulic lifts were used to lift each of the carriages off their current bogies. The bogies were rolled out and replaced by new ones for the rest of the trains journey. It took over an hour to change the bogies over although it seemed quite a straight forward process.
Once back at the platform we collected the passengers that had decided to get off the train and wait on the platform while the change took place. The train then remained at the platform while we all waited for our passports to be returned. For dinner we had chicken noodles, we can't say that we like them but it stopped us getting hungry. By this time it was midnight and the train set off moving towards Mongolia.
At 12.30pm we were stopped at what seemed no man's land for a while, it
was very dark there. Finally before 1am we arrived at the Mongolian border where more forms needed to be filled out and our passports handed over. We had got into bed as we were now tired and ready for sleep, however we kept getting disturbed by officials. Many officials checked the train carriages as we sat waiting for our passports to be returned. At 1.30pm we had dropped off to sleep as our passports were returned and the train set off. It had taken approximately 5 hours to cross the China, Mongolian border.
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Day 148
After a reasonably good sleep (it helps to have a door on your cabin, not like the hard sleeper trains in China) we woke up, looked out of the window and saw the Gobi desert. At 9.30am the train stopped for a short time at Choyr where we took the opportunity to stretch our legs on the platform. Children greeted us, they wanted us to buy colourful rocks off them and women tried selling water. Unfortunately most passengers had no local currency so only a few purchases were made.
Back on the train we had breakfast as we continued across
the desert towards Ulan Bator. Upon arriving on the outskirts of Ulan Bator there were many Ger (Mongolian tents) encampments. As you enter the city centre you start to see many soviet style apartment blocks and buildings. The traffic here is busy as in most cities around the world.
We arrived into Ulan Bator at around 1.30pm where we were met at the trains platform by a driver from the UB Hostel, where we had booked to stay the night. Many fellow travellers squeezed in the minibus with us for the short journey to our accommodation. The hostel was located in an scary looking apartment block but it was very homely inside.
Ulan Bator is the capital city of Mongolia, the coldest capital in the world, temperatures in the Winter can drop as low as -49 at night. At first glance it looks like an other soviet style city, however modern buildings are starting to occupy the skyline.
Once checked into the hostel the staff helped us plan a tour for the next three days, so we could see some of the Mongolian countryside during our time here. For dinner we went to Pizza De Casa where
we really enjoyed a pizza each (we haven't had one since Sydney!). Before returning to our hostel we stocked up with food and drinks we would need for our trip from the supermarket.
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A Carole & U Haydn
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Catch-up
Hi both, i'm keeping up with you, it's hard going though. just still can't believe what you are doing/seeing. Haydn said thanks for birthday wishes from Mongolia thats a first! take care love you both. X