Day #70: Buddhist sites

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We are heading back to Ulanbaataar now, and on the way stopped at a monastery and museum, the most touristy site I have been to in Mongolia. We had a guided tour of the temples which was good on specific details - the story of the terrifying-looking female protector with her demon baby in her mouth, the offerings made from flour and salt preserved for 50 years, the different Buddhas (the Buddha for longevity had by far the most offerings) - but assumed a knowledge of the principles and context of Buddhism that I don't have, so I couldn't relate it to the wider philosophy, other than learning that there are close ties to Tibetan Buddhism (the politics of Tibet are much on the minds of many Mongolians as they see the countries as comparable - small but independent nations under threat from much larger neighbours). At one point there was a ceremonial flute that we were told was made from the thighbone of a 15-year-old virgin.

The most interesting part of the museum was a section on aincient burial rituals from the time of the Gokturks, where the wealthy were buried with ever

ything they might need for the afterlife, including small models of their servants and animals, which were skillfully produced, and various valuables, like a smaller version of the Terracotta army. At this late stage in the tour I was almost too tired to take it in.

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