Of Malacca, baba laksas and cendol

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Getting to Malacca was disastrous. No, wait. Let me get that right. Getting to Malacca was fine. It was when we got there that things got disastrous, especially when you have a half-assed tour guide who attempted to bring you to the best food and sights around, namely…my partner, Jas.

This is what she had to say in her defense: “Look, I was just overexcited and couldn’t wait to show you things. And then I couldn’t tell one of the street from the other, is all.”

*snickers*

Alright, alright, let’s start the story from the beginning. Long story short, it was our first planned trip together, and we decided to go to somewhere close. Jas thought that we should go to Malacca, since it was such a famous place-of-interest that all foreign visitors would visit when they come to Malaysia.

That, and it is sad that I, as a Malaysian, have never taken the initiative to explore MY own country. So, yes, pretty soon, we got hyped up over Malacca, and were raving to go. A three-day trip. Good to know, too, that Jas had been there not too long ago with her family, so she remembers some must-see places.

When we finally got to the part of Malacca that we were aiming for , Jas was raving about the food already. A certain ‘baba laksa’ and Malacca cendol .

And so we went on a food hunt!

And a food hunt it was. Jas was positive that she remembered where it was and insisted that our stomach comes first. Bags, come along!

Of course, her memory was defective, as usual. We went up the street three times, and back down another three times. Now, you may say, “three times…only?” but when you’re there, under the scorching sun and lugging 100 kg luggage around, you’d beg to differ.

We gave up food hunting, and moved on to inn-hunting instead. We did our homework - checked tripadvisor.com for suggestions - and thought that their number one rated guesthouse, a.k.a. Riverview Guesthouse was pretty good. We decided to take a room there. We did check a few other guesthouses out, but none caught our eyes.

Riverview Guesthouse it is then! Now, this was muuuuuch easier to find. Riverview is located on Jalan Kampong Pantai, just a lane behind Jonker Street.

Riverview was not exactly glaringly eye-catching, snugly fitted between an alleyway and another shop. We banged on the door , and the owners admitted us in. Thank god for Mani and Raymond; I loved them best when they said that they still had rooms. No more hunting, please.

Price was reasonable - RM 45/night for a twin bed, ‘specially for first-timer backpackers on budget. The place was not cramped up with souvenirs , and very airy. The white was easy on the eyes, with a hint of rustic feel to it. Reprimand from Raymond: drop bags first before going for food. Mani was much kinder - she gave us a map and advice on how to get to baba laksa.

Found it at No. 88, Jalan Hang Jebat, Jonker Street. God, now I know why Jas was going all out for it. I guess I would have too, if I had tasted it before that. Not too spicy in comparison to Penang laksa, and creates perfect balance between the fragrance of coconut milk and tuna. Add in some Vietnamese coriander…heavenly. Cendol with ]i is also a must; just ask for cendol - it’s not easy to explain this dish, but it’s perfect during hot days, and Malacca’s always hot.

Because we didn’t really plan on the places that we wanted to visit, we spent much time pondering over the map as we ate. Pretty soon, we came up with a short list of where we wanted to visit the most - two days aren’t sufficient for Malacca-sight-seeing.

Cheng Ho Cultural Museum was our first stop. Located at Jalan Hang Jebat, it gives a very compact view to Admiral Cheng Ho’s life and voyages. Of course, discussions about Gavin Menzies’ books came up. Artifacts are awesome, but how one is told Cheng Ho’s story is the main reason why we liked that place a lot. The tour guides were very friendly - language-wise, not too fluent, but it is very clear that they know their stuffs, and they try to be as friendly and as personal as possible. Remember to take note of the opening and closing time. We took about two hours and a half to finish the whole house.

Now, there is a reason why Malacca is called The Historical City. Hence, it is not too strange to find excavation sites in the middle of the city. We were on our way to A’Famosa a.k.a. Porta de Santiago when we stumbled upon the Middlesburg excavation. Not stumbled per say; it was much too big to ignore, but we didn’t really plan on visiting it until we saw it and decided to just check it out. Cool for picture taking in the evening when the sun is about down, but during the night, it wasn’t so nice. By the way, find this excavation’s continuation across the street.

Moving on…A’Famosa is mostly in ruins, thanks to the Dutch invasion. It looked grand and old and ancient and majestic from far, far away. When we got there, the stalls nearby ruined the image. It put us off even more when the vendors started yelling out prices. It would be up to the tourists to find their own significance for the fort there as they take a look around.

A stairs led us up to Saint Paul’s Church. Now this was much more interesting than A’Famosa . There were huge tombstones, and Jas enjoyed viewing the carvings, even though it was in another language. When we got there, the sunset was beginning. The view then was amazing - the entire Malacca city was on the foreground, and the sunset casting silhouettes dramatically. The holy ground was even holier then.

And guess where we went next?

Sneaking expedition one-oh-one- we crawled through a hole into the Dutch graveyard. Nothing much to talk about, really, because death wasn’t exactly high up in our conversation list then. But, we found a lot of historical facts about historical people whom are not really that well known - the forgotten ones who took it upon themselves to travel abroad and explore for their own curiosity’s sake, not for fame.

Dinner for our first day there was preceded by an evening exercise . Mani and Raymond had earlier on invited us to join them in trying out some satay celup, another very famous local cuisine. It was quite fun, really , to be dipping what we are going to eat into a specially brewed, peanut-y sauce. We were joined by another two fellow-guests, whom we couldn’t remember their name, but had great fun with, nonetheless. Hot, though. Go for it not exclusively for the satisfaction of your palate, but for the bonding time.

Ended day one with a walk back to the “red-light district” with Mani and Raymond. The atmosphere was a little eerie because the streets were rather quiet; it was a Thursday and most Malaccans don’t let their hair down till the weekends, but the wind was wonderful. Good way to end our first day there.

Now, we think that Riverview deserves another mention at this point, because it offered us the comfort of home.

The beds in our room were very inviting and seductive . Because we bathed at nearly 12 at night, we thanked god for the availability of hot water. After that, we went up to balcony upstairs which was furnished with the basic furniture. It offered us a very nice view of the Malacca River. When we got back to our room, sleep was good.

The next day began with a brief breakfast, and we were off. Our first stop was Malaqa House somewhere in Jalan Tun Tan Ching Lok. This was another one that we stumbled upon while walking around. It was not our intention to enter actually, because it was a shop selling Peranakan antiques. However, it is perfectly fine to go in just to take a look around and view the items used in the olden days without having to buy anything. It’s almost like viewing a furniture shop, only that it gives you an insight to the culture of the people then. The good thing about this shop is that you are given a chance to explore on your own - not hassled by overeager tour guides and salesperson.

Next stop - lunch. Okaaaaaay…so we set out rather late and only had a very small breakfast, hence we wanted early lunch.

Keen on trying local Peranakan dishes, we took a look into pamphlets published by the Tourism Ministry and chose a recommended restaurant: The Peranakan Restaurant. It was very grand, with a lot interior decorations - like a lavish Peranakan mansion. The eatery section was further in the shop; the front part was more like a waiting hall. We asked for the waitress’ suggestions and ordered nyonya chap choi , cencaluk fried omelette, ayam pong teh, and cendol.

The verdict: IT ALL SUCKED! Cendol was not fragrant enough, whereas the nyonya chap choi and ayam pong teh were like normal Chinese dishes. We found nothing special about the taste - very mundane, actually. Even more disappointing was the cencaluk fried omelette. Not a single cencaluk. We dissected the whole egg, and at several point of time thought that the finely cut carrots were cencaluk. Too bad they weren’t. The waitress wasn’t very courteous either. Probably because we were not blond and blue-eyed.

Definitely not going there, EVER. Later, Mani and Raymond told us that their other guests have been there before, and didn’t find it satisfactory. Ladies and gentlemen, if you ever want good Peranakan food, hunt for it yourself.

Or ask Mani and Raymond. Or your hosts. Or…whatever.

The Cheng Hoon Teng Temple afterwards lifted our spirits after that sucky lunch. This temple is the first temple to be built in Malacca, and its wood carvings were really elaborate and beautiful. Kinda small, but the atmosphere was very calm and serene.

We next wanted to go to The Baba and Nyonya Heritage Museum, but got distracted by a shoe shop. Not any ordinary shoe shop, but one which sells “lotus shoes” - shoes catered specially for Chinese women who had their feet bound in the olden days. What really caught our attention was the size of the shoes; it was the size of a toddler’s shoes, and seemed very uncomfortable. The owner told us that he was one of the last such shoemakers, and boasted about their intricate embroidery. Which we must admit, was very beautiful. Prices were very beautiful too.

But of course, we remembered that we had an “appointment" with the Heritage Museum, so we went off.

The museum was very interesting because it featured a lot about Baba Nyonya lifestyle and culture, but the tour guide was too monotonous and kept rushing us about. Didn’t like the invasion of privacy, and she wasn’t friendly either. Snobbish - that’s the word. In fact, at some point of time, she made us feel like we were see-through; she was merely reciting to the walls what she had learned. However, other visitors seemed pretty okay with her approach.

Next on list was the Maritime Museum . We had high expectations for this structure, but it wasn’t exactly satisfying. Maritime Museum Part I was actually quite an ingenious construction - it was a ship, but it was too small. Interior was beautiful, though. Lots of information on warships and sailors who had once made their journey to Malacca. Part II was in another building. An ordinary building. They didn’t have space to build another ship. Part II was very disappointing. Apart from the air-conditioning, it was a let-down. The technology installed was not functioning, and they had minimal artifacts. It was also like a walkthrough textbook - facts and words were everywhere, and there were more reading required than viewing.

When we went to Stadhuys after that, we were amazed. It is a big, BIG, GLARING RED building which no one will miss; not even the blind. And we guess it has to be, because it contains nearly everything in the history of Malacca that you need to know. We had problems finding the toilet . It would have been good if they had a café for visitors to rest and digest, both what they had read…and would eat. Very informative though. A lot sections to visit, and for those who want to go through the place in detail may take half a day.

And guess what, it was time for dinner…again! We were smarter this time, after the Peranakan Restaurant incident, and asked for recommendations from Mani and Raymond. Being the ever-courteous hosts, they brought us out for dinner at Restoran Asam Pedas Pokok Besar . Long name, I know, but the food’s good. We ate stingrays and fish cooked in assam chilli, and famous Malay side dishes like satay and otak-otak . Most of the food was a little more on the spicy side, especially the stingrays and fish, but it was all very appetising.

Then we decided that we wanted a night stroll through Malacca River…with the help of a boat. It was the perfect night for a cruise - the sky was clear, the wind was up, the night lights were on along the river, it was a Friday, people were ready to party, our stomachs were full, and our feet were tired. The Malacca River Cruise was it. The sound of water slapping against the side of the boat was very comforting. Coupled with the quiet of the night, the wind and friendly chats, the entire world seemed perfect.

Our last stop for the Malacca trip was the shopping haven a.k.a. Jonker Street. Kinda like a bazaar - it was a combination of shops and stalls. Things were sold at a very cheap price. Little trinkets and souvenirs are the main highlight of this street. Lots of snacks and drinks along the way. Malaysians know this phenomenon as pasar malam, the night market, and Jonker Street is the epitome of it. Open till 11 p.m., this street offers you sight, smell and taste.

There are still many other aspects of Malacca that remains undiscovered...by us. Wish we stayed for more than 3 days 2 nights. There's still the Portuguese Square and the Serani people's culture, the stamp museum, the architectural museum - too much left unexplored!

Take note, however, that it would be beneficial if you know where exactly to go for good food. Otherwise, it would be a waste of your money. Get advice and opinions from locals, if you can.

All in all, Malacca's for those who love good food and are interested in historical sites. It's a pretty tranquil place - good for those seeking calmness and maybe families too. If you're looking for happening events, then Malacca's not for you.

And remember to give Riverview Guesthouse a visit. If you are up to it, and want to personally speak to Mani and Raymond, try e-mailing them at

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Comments

[Dogtraveler]

Wonderful review!!! Awesome place to be!!!
This really helped me alot when I went to Melaka recently...I stayed in the Riverview Guest House and the place was splendid... The beds were awesome and the host Mani and Raymond were so friendly and helpful making me feel so homey and nice...One of the most awesome trip I have been... More thanks to this review!