Colonial class, contemporary cool

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Malaysia (May 18th - 21st 2009)

Bases: Kuala Lumpur, Penang

Main sights: Independence Square, Petronas Twin Towers Skybridge, National Museum, KL Lake Gardens, National Monument, The Historic City of Georgetown, Fort Cornwallis

Top 3 experiences:

1) Getting a birds-eye view of KL from the Petronas Skybridge
2) Sampling street food in Penang
3) Overnighting on the historic Malaysian rail network

Daily budget (travel, food and accommodation): USD $35 = 21 pounds

My rating: 8/10

Overview:

Mainland Malaysia is a fabulous mix of old and new. On the one hand, its heritage is readily apparent in the beautiful buildings, the intermingling of cultures and the famous colonial railway network. On the other hand, it's also home to one of Asia's newest powerhouses - Kuala Lumpur (KL) - with its monorail, financial district and futuristic skyline boasting the world-renowned Petronas Twin Towers.

While it may be true that every country in this part of the world has interesting historical relics, Malaysia is one of the few to ally them with a modern outlook. So the streets are lined with rubbish bins instead of rubbish, tourist offices provide free advice instead of pushing you package tours and - gasp - public transport actually runs ontime.

I know that in an earlier blog (on HK) I complained that everything there was just a little too modern to feel truly Asian. Possibly, I'm now just that bit more receptive to mod-cons after months of slogging through the backward regions of Laos and Sumatra. But it does also seem to me that Malaysia manages a better balance of old and new than anywhere else in the region.

In HK, for example, they had an exasperating habit of knocking down historic buildings to make way for highways whereas here they've developed a modern tourist infrastructure to help you see those historic buildings.

Malaysia is without doubt the best SE Asian country in terms of preserving and promoting what it's got to visitors. It may not be lucky enough to have as many jawdropping attractions as neighbouring countries (on the mainland, at least), but it's a great country when time is limited and planning ahead isn't possible.

All you have to do is show up and be swept along by the old world/new world fusion that is Malaysia.

Petronas Twin Towers Skybridge:

KL is a surprisingly appealing place. The Asian financial boom that turned other cities into polluted urban sprawls seems to have had the opposite effect here. The city has grown upwards more than outwards, and the clean green districts underline that sound planning has gone hand-in-hand with rising wealth. Throw in an excellent transport network, thriving Chinese and Indian quarters and a population used to working with Brits, and you could think of far worse places to live for a year or two.

But from a tourist perspective, in all honesty, there's only one show in town - the Petronas Twin Towers.

Upon completion in 1998, these were the largest towers in the world. Not only that, they're also beautiful structures in their own right, and proof that steel and glass skyscrapers done right can draw the eye as much as any buildings from a bygone era.

Each 452m tower contains 88 floors, but it's on the 41st floor that they are joined together by a spectacular viewing platform. The Skybridge offers great views of KL, but arguably the most impressive views are of the towers themselves. It really is an awe-inspiring sight as the concentric rings of steel and glass tail off into the distance in both directions. Not recommended if you have vertigo!

Of course, this being Malaysia (and the symbol of modern Malaysia at that), it isn't enough to simply show you the view. There are endless interactive exhibits and 3D movies and information boards to pass the time as you queue, so much so that a visit feels more like a packed sightseeing daytrip than what it basically boils down to - going up the lift of a very tall building.

It's a prime example of how Malaysia, using every modern idea it can think of, truly makes the most of what it's got.

Penang:

You never realise how much of a foodie you are till you visit Penang. Good eating is one of the main things that draws people to this 28 sq km island within sight of mainland Malaysia.

Acquired by the Brits in very dubious circumstances back in 1786, this quiet backwater was transformed into a cultural melting pot where Malays, Brits, Chinese and Indians could trade goods and ideas. They also traded cooking techniques, creating a hotchpotch of cuisine centuries before Asian fusion became trendy. Noodle curry, anyone?

The best way to sample all this is to join the locals. Georgetown, the main town on Penang, has the best collection of cheap buffet restaurants and roadside food stalls in SE Asia. For next to nothing, you can treat your tastebuds to flat breads, stir-fried vegetables, sweet sponge cakes, grilled meats and the best Tandoori Chicken outside India. And you can wash it all down with freshly-made fruit shakes or 'teh tarik', literally stretched tea, which is hurled from cup to cup to improve flavour in front of your disbelieving eyes.

The food from these places is so delicious, it won't be long before you're wishing someone would set up a copycat in the UK and blow our horrible kebab stands out of the water. And the food is so simple, you'll be racking your brains why no-one's done it already.

After your meal, you'll undoubtedly be stuffed to bursting point. Thankfully Penang also has some of the prettiest buildings in SE Asia - perfect for an after-dinner walk. In fact, more than 100 acres of Georgetown was awarded UNESCO status in 2008 in recognition of its historical importance. Over 1,700 old buildings are packed into this area, spanning European and Asian influences - cathedrals sit side by side with mosques and temples, while imposing government buildings and Chinese mansions lie just round the corner.

But perhaps most impressive of all is the fact that these structures are still here after all this time. It seems modern Malaysia takes genuine pride in its roots.

Malaysia-Thailand train:

The Malaysian railway network is steeped in history, much like its counterpart in Vietnam. Both were built by colonial powers to ease the shipping out of natural resources. Both offer journeys through landscapes of paddy fields and palm trees, interspersed with the occasional colonial train station and railyard. And both have become established among the world's most famous train journeys.

But there's one big difference. Whereas the Malaysian rail experience is modern and comfortable, in Vietnam it feels as if conditions have hardly improved since American GIs were visible from the windows.

Take the meals as an example. Malaysia offers you a choice of 6 customisable dinner menus including soup, curry, meat and vegetarian options and the facility to have food served at a time that suits you. Vietnam, by contrast, sends round a trolley straight after departure with only 1 meal on offer - rice and chicken. And the porter licks his fingers after serving each meal.

It's not a matter of money either. We actually travelled 2nd class sleeper in Malaysia and 1st class sleeper in Vietnam, so the Reunification Express cost significantly more. Adding insult to injury, the Malaysians give everyone a sturdy table, clean cabins and toilets that aren't reminiscent of Trainspotting.

All in all, I'd say Malaysian trains just shade it.

Putting comparisons aside for a moment, the Malaysia-Thailand railway is a wonderful experience. You get to see a side of everyday Malay and Thai life that gets missed out by most plane-hopping tourists, a rural lifestyle harking back to the time before KL, Bangkok and similar urban bubbles took over the continent. And you can enjoy these snapshots of old Asia from the comfort of your nice modern train.

Random facts:

The Malaysian Railway Building in Penang is the only station in the world without railtracks - trains depart from Butterworth on the other side of the water

KL International Airport is a mindboggling 75km from KL

KL has the world's tallest twin towers (Petronas) and the 4th largest telecommunications tower (KL Tower) - both are open to the public

Impressions:

In some ways, mainland Malaysia has a lot in common with Indonesia. It has the same foods, the same words, the same history of colonial powers muscling in on trade. It even shares the island of Borneo with its neighbour.

But in other ways, Malaysia feels radically different. It's more modern, of course, with a palpable sense of wealth and success in the cities. It's also a lot less overcrowded, with a total population almost one-tenth the size of Java alone. That brings with it another difference, the sense you get in Malaysia of a country working to a plan rather than bordering on chaos.

Malaysia works.

Perhaps that's one of the reasons why there's such a fierce rivalry between Malaysia and Indonesia. Whereas one country is the epitome of organisation, the other is a free-for-all.

That's not to say Malaysia is perfect. From my admittedly fleeting visit, it doesn't appear to have the breathtaking manmade drawcards of Cambodia and Vietnam or the volcanic beauty of Indonesia. Malaysia is first and foremost a nice civilised place to admire the countryside and soak up the distinctly colonial atmosphere of the towns. After all, what other major capital can boast a city centre built around a full-sized cricket pitch? That pitch may today form part of Independence Square, but there's no question that the legacy of the British is still writ large in Malaysia.

Now it doesn't take a genius to realise Brits only entered the Malays to get their grubby mits on the Spice Trade and tin deposits. Or that they acquired Penang, Melaka and Singapore through a seedy combination of threats, lies and barrel-of-a-gun diplomacy. But as you sit on KL's cricket pitch - an oasis of calm in a city of skyscrapers - you begin to think that maybe the much-maligned British empire got a few things right after all.

Next stop: Thailand

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