The bitter aftertaste of jungle juice

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The day after we got back to Bario I flew to Miri and I was keen for some more jungle trekking so booked a flight to Gunung Mulu national park. I had heard about a mountain trek but instead of the challenge I had hoped for it turned out more like a walking holiday in Torquay. Guides, boats and food means that going solo is very expensive so I joined a group arranged through my hostel in Miri. Turns out that 3 of them were over 30 and we climbed the mountain at a snails pace while I spent the whole time cursing my companions aging limbs. Instead of the 5 days I had planned there I spent two and then flew to Kota Kinabalu the capitol of Sabah (Northern Malaysian Borneo). I was booked in to climb the Mount Kinabalu on tuesday 26th but I got the feeling that I might be just another customer at the vending machine of tourist experiences so I hopped on a night bus to Semporno.

From Semporno I was just 3 hours from Indonesia but first I took a boat to the legendary Sipadan island where I dived 3 scubas. The first dive was a bit nervous because it had been 2 years since my last dive but the second two were much better. Managed to see too many fish to describe, many many huge turtles and sharks. My powers of description are completely inadequate for the task so ill just say it was hella awesome. On the boat ride back to land I was hit by the fact that the Earth is just a big ball hanging in space and the pleasure of the thought was well worth the sunburn I received while thinking it.

Borneo has been interesting but for the most part has been more touristy than my guide books led me to believe. With the exception of Bario lots of people speak english, watch Mr Bean and listen to Nirvana. My ever growing collection of books has kept me from loneliness (The Mosquito Coast = massively good book) and I have been eating well for about 2 pound a day. The cheapness of the food means that sometimes I order two main courses but I am always reminded of Da Vinci's advice to "Sup light". One of the things I didnt expect was how hard giving up music is. I bought a radio but i either dont get reception or the music doesnt satisfy. So I have turned my head into a juke box and during long treks I replay favourite songs as best I can from memory. So far I think my most useful asset has been my complete indifference to hygiene. An ability that would soon be put to the test as I was heading into Indonesia.

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Comments

[Kat]

'So far I think my most useful asset has been my complete indifference to hygiene' I'll warn Ebba for next year!