Mount Kinabalu - the first and probably last attempt

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We had read that climbing Mount Kinabalu was easy, compared to the hassle of organising it. Having done both, we have to disagree completely. Despite having to pay a national park fee, a climbing fee, a guide fee, mandatory insurance, a fee for transport within the park, and a fee for mountainside board and lodgings, the pain on the wallet compares not to the pain in the thighs, calves, knees, feet, head and heart. But it was worth it, just about, for the sense of achievement and awe-inspiring views of Borneo at dawn.

It’s not the distance travelled, nor the time spent walking that hurts, it’s the height gained. It’s hard to convey just how steep the climb is. Try to imagine walking up a seemingly never-ending staircase for eight or nine hours. For the mathematically minded, consider 2.2km of ascent in 8.7km of walking. Then having to walk all the way down again, ever so carefully watching your step.

Thankfully the scenery was more interesting than that enclosing the average staircase. Our favourite sights, though, were probably the 0.5km markers, signifying another landmark as we passed through sticky rainforest, through the clouds into alpine-like vegetation. After a few hours rest, we finally ascended to bare rock and the summit, cold and mysterious in the seemingly eternal moments before dawn’s warming rays. They revealed that we’d made it, to 4095m above the intermittently visible sea.

Mount Kinabalu is the highest point in south-east Asia, and features prominently on the flag of the Malaysian state Sabah. Many ‘Sabahans’ have completed the climb on more than one occasion, including our guide, Francis, who has done so twice a week for the past five years. Even his endeavours pale into insignificance next to those of the numerous mountain porters, who carry food and other goods to the overnight lodgings at Laban Rata (~3300m). Perhaps we had it easy, after all. Even if we couldn’t walk properly for four days afterwards.

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Photos

The climb begins
A deceptive downhill slope - just meant we had further to go uphill after.

Tree roots
Shot from eye level a few steps away.

The mountain porters
Men, women, all ages, carried our dinner, breakfast and other supplies for Laban Rata.

The last 500m before Laban Rata
It took about 25 mins!

Laban Rata
Our overnight lodgings, and the scene of a large breakfast to break up our descent.

Mountainside volleyball
Incredibly, some of the porters and guides could muster the energy and desire for a game of volleyball.

Climbers in the dark
We set out around 2.30am. This is a group of walkers some way below us.

We've made it!
Great photo :-/
Our guide's trekking skills surpassed his photography.

Sunrise
On top of (this part of) the world.

We really did make it.
A better photo of Ben, depending on your point of view.

The wrong way down
Some soldiers were stuck down here for three weeks!

The long way down, via a monkey head?
Slightly delirious at this point, the rocks took on strange shapes.

Looking up
We weren't the only ones with the bright idea to climb Kinabalu.

Looking down
It was only on our descent that we began to see where we'd ascended.

To prove Mina made it too
Mina was keen to be photographed, for a change.

Barren
Not much grows above 4000m

Francis, our guide
Seems to have been transformed into an army man.

These guys look a bit professional
But we beat them to the top.

Rope tricks
This was easier in the dark, when there was less to be scared about.

Putting it into perspective
We're still a long way above the rest of Sabah.

A narrow ledge
An imposter dressed as Mina

Look at the times!
Ignore the grins, and look at the times. Our time of 13 hours, over two days, wasn't quite good enough to warrant a place on the board, obviously. Having done the trek, these times are astonishing.

Comments

[Mon Haley]

Mt Kinabalu
Wow. What can I say? For once, I'm glad I wasn't with you!! I get to see the wonderful views without the pain!! Congratulations to you both for ascending and descending Mt Kinabalu. I bet you're really glad you didn't have to carry your dinners too!

[Paul Haley]

Mount Kinabalu
I am well impressed by this mountainous feat !