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Date visited: 23-25th April
After the Orangutans at Sepilok we met our driver in the minibus at the carpark. After a short drive we met other travellers at the headquarters' where we had our free lunch and got chatting to other backpackers.
We drove for 90 mins in minibuses to the river before boarding our longboat which roared down the river for about an hour or so.
I couldn't believe how quiet this river was - known very well, in Borneo if not throughout the world for its nature and wildlife, I was expecting more tour boats and day trippers. There was just us!
We arrived at the camp - all we could see was jungle. After balancing our heavy backpacks on our backs in the hot humid heat we proceeded through the jungle for about 400 metres before reaching our camp. The sounds of the animals was very noticeable as we walked on with tree frogs, strange bird sounds and other insects making their presence heard. We carefully picked our way through the mud (the camp is located in a wetland not far from the river). As we approached I was relieved to see that our huts
- about 6 in all were all raised well above the floor and kitted out with mozzy nets and barred on the sides to stop creepies getting through (at least the bigger mammals anyway!). The boardwalks nicely linked the huts to the other outbuildings such as the restaurant area and toilet block so that kept things a bit cleaner. Our hut had 3 double mattresses on the floor which we shared with 2 other couples. Everyone in our group despite its size was nice, and we ended up having a decent conversation with nearly all of them by the time we finished the camp.
The guides and staff were really switched on speaking good English and regularly briefing us so we knew what was going on and when. We had a group get together on the first night for instance where they showed us all the wildlife we could and should be seeing throughout the 3 days. After the chat we had a really yummy dinner - ironically, probably the best Malaysian food we sampled to date despite the cooking conditions here. After dinner we all got on the boat for the night time safari. It wasn't much fun
tramping through the mud again to get to the river, but I planned well and was coated from head to toe in my New Zealand trekking gear (waterproof overtrousers and the like!).
The river was so peaceful at night. The guides were excellent showing us all sorts with their very powerful torch beam. They shone the shaft of light up to the tree tops so we could see Monkeys resting and managed to spot the smallest of things like king fishers - which looked almost fake they were so still (and plastic-looking!) to wild cats, owls, eagles and ....a wild pig! The moonlight made the river look most serene. The hour of wildlife watching passed quickly. We retired to our beds and slept surprisingly well!
At 6am we were shouted out of bed to get to the boat by 6.30am. The sacrifices you make eh! Apparantely the river is better at this time for spotting animals whilst its cooler. This time around we saw some proboscis monkeys (the ones with the big noses) Unfortunately my photos were not as good as on this link as they were too high up in the trees! I did spot their massive
noses though!
http://www.wanprc.org/prrs/images/Proboscis%20Monkey.JPG
We also managed to see a croc slide into the river from a nearby bank! mmm
The following day was rather amusing even though most of the time was spent hanging around the camp. We really got to know the origins of the saying 'you cheeky monkey!'. Indeed, as we were sipping on our morning tea pre-occupied in conversation, several of the monkeys would sneek up behind our backs, first on the roof, then creeping their way very slowly to the point when they could launch off from the gutter and land on the kitchen table stealing (on this occasion) a can of condensed milk and some pancakes. Despite the staff clapping their hands and shooing them off, one by one they would return, their heads popping into view, waiting until they could see people were no longer waiting for them before trying again. I was impressed with their very organised army-approach, even including distraction tactics.
We all sat laughing in disbelief. The day passed lazily and travellers dispersed either to the eating area or their rooms. A few grabbed a hammock and just read a book for a few hours.
Morning wash!
Yep this was basic! the brown water from the nearby lake didn't exactly look er cleanish! - my skin felt grimey..better than being eaten though (swimming in the lake is strictly prohibited)!I managed to snatch a quiet moment just to myself. The boardwalk and chalet area looked totally empty, but I could hear noise. I grabbed my camera as soon as I realised what it was. A bunch of long tail macaque monkeys were playing inside one of the cabins (someone left the door open!). I crept so quiet and smooth that they didn't notice my approach until I was only a foot away. They saw me but didn't feel threatened and so continued their games. One was swinging from the mozzy net over the bed and playing chase with its friend. Another was supping beer from a can of Strong Brew that a traveller left behind, and a third was just hunting for food scraps through the bin! I tried to film as much as I could. A few more in the group joined in after wondering what all the fuss was about. By now I was only inches away from one just sat right next to me.
B strolled down the path wondering what I was upto - I am unsure if it was his sudden presence or his talking which caused a defensive reaction, but as he
approached the male of the group came from the opposite direction and screamed at me, rearing its teeth and looking momentarily evil, before taking a swipe at my calf with its hand. It didn't draw blood or hurt too much but shocked me none the less. Ben began shooing it off as though it was a cow haha whilst I backed away very slowly.
nigOn reflection I was still glad I was there with them but it does remind one that these are wild animals that can turn very quickly however kid-like they appear at times and need respect.
After another fab meal the group was split to do the night jungle walk - about an hour altogether. Our guide was excellent and somehow knew where he was going despite there being no path as such and him suddenly turning in random directions. I think the trees were marked with paint but still, I was glad we had a torch. We were shown huge scorpions, a massive Turantula scuttling up a tree, some odd looking frogs and weird plants. Unfortunately we didn't see any snakes but walking through the jungle was an experience none the less - especially
Monitor Lizard
Just passing through as we had our dinner...(often mistaken for a croc when they are this big - about 2 metres) when stumbling over logs and thick undergrowth, banging into tree trunks or clinging onto branches to avoid muddy bogs. The concern we showed in Australian on a well marked path is laughable after this, where we honestly could have been grabbing, touching, brushing past or walking through all sorts! But, what I've also realised is that these freaky if beautiful jungle animals arn't just exposed and waiting to jump attack or pounce on a human walking through - but deeply buried in ruts, tree trunks, holes, crevices and undergrowth trying to keep out of the way. Nearly all the wildlife he showed us (at least the scary variety) had to be well tracked down using the experience of the guide - either by digging a stick in a deep hole, or tapping a tree to cause a vibration. They are for the most part hiding, and much more afraid of us then we are of them.
But. I was still uneasy, and did feel I needed total luck not to accidentally 'upset' something in nature as I stumbled through like a lumbering idiot.
Overall the camp was BRILLIANT, in terms of wildlife spotting, food, socialising and being in
the middle of bloody nowhere for a few days. The boat safaris and jungle walks offered two contrasting perspectives for seeing the animals and at different times of day added a special atmosphere.
After the 3 days I felt we saw a lot of the best of Borneo's famous wildlife, especially the Orangutan which I personally discovered swinging through the trees, right into our camp. Obviously its nice to see them in a group and observe their interactions, but thats at Sepilok where the rehabilitation sanctuary is also a 'paid attraction'. Here however, this one was totally wild, and was just curious. A few dizzy guides were singing dreadfully out of tune (imagine the worst karaoke) - their discordant sounds travelled well beyond the camp and into the trees. Perhaps the Orangutan was interested - indeed at one moment it reacted with a heavy grunt after one appallingly sung song by one of the guides (on a two string guitar!).
I don't think he was impressed!
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