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Published: April 19th 2008
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Date visited: 16th-18th April
Our journey to this Englishy hill region of Malaysia (North, North-West) with its rose gardens, tea and scone cafe's and cooler air was a bit of a self inflicted epic!
The lengths we went to to avoid a very heavily criticised coach company based in Panang meant us getting up at 5 am where we taxied to the jetty, ferried to the mainland, trained it for 3 hrs to Ipoh only to end up at Ipoh bus station having to use the same coach company (we couldn't find the other company!)
Luckily we boarded just before it left for the Cameron Highlands which meant we could keep our luggage with us (where travellers previously have reported their bags being stolen/lost at the various drop-offs). The driver luckily seemed sane unlike some stories we have read where they race around mountain bends like formula one drivers. We tried at least.
9 hours later we arrived at our impeccably clean retreat, purched on a hill overlooking the town of Tana Rata. The friendly staff greeted us and we checked in flopping on the bed. I don't think I have felt as tired ever before as I
Afternoon brew
It doesn't get fresher than this (Ben still prefers Tetley) did just then..
After a refresh and lie down we explored Tana Rata town - a small compact town in the heart of the Cameron Highlands. We were surprised at how much development in and around this area had taken place (as we were imagining vast and remote tea hillstations). Still, you didn't have to wonder very far to be amongst this as found out later on.
The cooler fresh air was a welcome break from the tropical climate. The temperature here averages around 23oC as opposed to 33 in Kuala Lumpur. The mountain air, afternoon rains and peaceful stay enabled us to just sit and sup tea for a few hours each day and enable our blood pressures to recover after Panang.
We picked a trail with the assistance of the tourist board staff. The walks are all numbered and supposedly well marked but its best to check what condition they are in before starting out. Tours can take you around the trails but we didn't want any of that. We were recommended a 3 hr walk on path 10 which was a little tricky to find but once on it seemed simple enough. The path
kitted up for our Jungle trail
..along 'path 10, 11 12' according to the tourist board although as you can see it isn't exactly a marked path is it! was steep in places and the jungle undergrowth at times almost covered the path. Large tree rootes had to be negotiated and at times all fours required to heave yourself up. The path winded through thick jungle before gaining elevation providing lovely views of the surrounding tea hill plantations. Unfortunately after only a couple of kilometres into the walk we couldn't see where next to go. One dubious junction appeared after another - and neither choice of route seemed more obvious over the other. At this point we agreed to opt for a gravel access path we bumped into on our ascent. This took us down to the road eventually after about an hour which led us safely back to the town. It just isn't worth guessing the way in terrain like this! I was wanting to get back before the afternoon rains which we made, just. These already muddy trails just turn to rivers in the afternoon - and the already slippy mossy rocks and roots on the path would just become treacherous.
In the evening we stumbled across a fantastic Indian resturant serving amazing tandoori set meals on banana leaves. Once seated with your empty green leaf
A worm alongside a size 12 boot!
Out and about on our do-it-yourself Jungle 'walk' on the table, Indian waiters come in turn piling on little samples of Indian food: a vegetable curry, dhal, poppadums, naan bread and dips, veg samosa, chutneys, scrambled egg and green been mix, dhonut with yoghurt sauce accompanied with a lovely Masala tea (google this for the recipe its gorgeous!). The meal is then ended with a lasse, an indian Yoghurt/Fresh fruit dessert served in a glass - this is absolutely gorgeous and I endeavour to have this weekly after my return!( So far I have stuffed myself with blackcurrent, mango, and banana lasse!)
At last and for the first time since arriving in Malaysia we have found a great place to eat. We have noticed that the Indian food is definitly a more reliable bet - and better value serving it in quantities you would describe as a 'meal'. Unfortunately the chinese/Malaysian options have been very dissapointing in terms of quality and quantities. Often meat is stirfried in oily sauces or deep fried and come with strange things (pig trotters anyone?)... or they serve dry food but the wrong end of an animal - e.g fish HEAD!...
On our last day in this region we rented
a scooter to take us to some of the more rural areas of interest - a view point or two of the tea plantations, some local villages and country lanes, and a tea factory. Luckily we did all this in the morning before we discovered our flat tyre in a village several miles from Tana Rata. Forgetting to check we had the contact details of the rental company and with no phones around we were a bit stuck until a local offered to repair the puncture fitting a new inner tube. 20 Ringits and 40 minutes later we hopped back on our bike waving him with our grateful thanks. Only 5 minutes later we were stuck again with another flat tyre (the same one!)!! Was our luck against us?!!?! We walked on to the next sizeable town after 30 mins or so and managed to phone the Tana Rata tourist board which got a message through for the bike company to pick us up. It all worked out in the end but ..mmm if its not one thing bleh!
We managed at least to see the Cameron hills, sample some local tea, try our hand at an indepedant walk, check out some unhurried villages and relaxed at our excellent hotel. With the climate here bring daily rain every afternoon there is only so much you can do if one doesn't want to get drenched on very muddy walks each day...
My highlight was the view and cup of tea at one the tea factories, and having 3 scones jam and cream in 2 days! (the only sweet 'pudding' in months)!
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