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Published: September 29th 2008
I think the stifling heat and humidity of Kuala Lumpur have finally caught up with me, since I have been feeling really drained. Since the rain has been coming down in heavy bursts all afternoon, it seems like a good time to lay low.
Craig and I are on vacation for the Idul Fitri (end of Ramadan) holiday. Roughly a week ago, we flew from Semarang to Singapore. The flight was a breezy two hours, but given the differences between the two cities, they seem to be on different planets. The majority of our coworkers have never once set foot in Singapore. A trip to the small, yet ritzy island is difficult to save for on most Indonesian teacher's salaries.
I have to admit, it was great to spend a few days basking the luxury of S'pore's modernity. Our hostel was serendipitously over-booked, so the owner transferred us to another property: an apartment just a stone's throw away from Orchard Rd, Singapore's ritziest shopping area. So we saw a couple movies, ate, wandered around, ate some more, and went to Starbucks for the first time in six weeks (it was a difficult dry spell, but somehow I stuck it
Clock Tower at Night
Christ Church, Melakaout).
Although I am already in Kuala Lumpur, I want to dedicate the majority of this entry to Melaka. This was my first visit to the historic city, and I must say it quickly jumped onto my favorites list. Just this July, Melaka, along with Georgetown, on Penang, was officially designated as a UNESCO world heritage site.
We arrived by train; probably not advisable considering Melaka is not directly on a rail line. The nearest train station is around 20 miles away at Tampin. We arrived on the sleepy platform and immediately turned down a taxi diver who was charging an exorbitant amount for a ride to Malaka. It was only after he had jetted away with other passengers did we realize he had been the only driver to be seen and we were now stranded. So we dragged all our bags down the road and into the town of Tampin, where we eventually found another driver (snoring in his cab) to take us.
Our guesthouse was located in a very old warehouse in Chinatown. Immediately after setting down our things we headed out to the two streets designated as Little India. We had a delicious meal
at a restaurant called "Selvam". It is recommended in Lonely Planet, and I would certainly agree.
The name Melaka conjures up all sorts of imagery; as it was once a major seafaring port and center for trade between Europe and the East Indies. Though the city's role has decreased in terms of maritime trade, the infamous Strait of Malacca is still one of the busiest and most important shipping routes in the world, as well as one of the most heavily pirated.
The city of Melaka was originally colonized by the Portuguese during the early 16th century. The Dutch took over control of Malaka during the 17th century, and ruled for over 100 years. At last, in 1826 it was relinquished to the British, and controlled by the British East India Company.
Relics of its colonial past are found throughout the city. One of the most notable, and a favorite place of mine, is St. Paul's church. Now in ruins, the chapel sits serenely on a hill with a beautiful sweeping view of the city. It was built in 1511 by a Portuguese captain, and was also used as a center of worship for the Dutch, before
they constructed their own Christ Church, another famous Melaka landmark. St. Francis Xavier of Spain was a frequent visitor to the quiet chapel, and his body was interred there for nine months after his death.
The old town of Melaka is remarkable, old shop-houses sitting cramped along the river. Though hundreds of years old this part of town is still alive and vibrant, and does not seem to exist simplyy to cater to tourists. Chinatown is busy and bustling, with many beautifully carved, ornate temples, outdoor cafes, cramped alleys, and small businesses. At night, the winding streets are illuminated by lanterns, giving off a mysterious red glow.
The city is endlessly interesting, with Malaysia's fascinating ethnic and religious diversity thrown together with a unique national and colonial history. It is also just a great place to relax, sit at a cafe, and watch the world roll by.
One of my favorite memories was being awakened by a massive thunderstorm in our old, rickety hostel. We tiptoed down the hall to the front of the building and peeked out the window. The rain was pouring in buckets and the street was completely flooded and empty in the glow
Vantage Point
Resting on the grass outside of St. Paul's Chapel of the street lamps. Suddenly, down the center of the soaked road, swam a huge water monitor lizard. He sauntered along, using his tail as a rudder and casually looking back and forth as he went.
Finally tearing ourselves away from Malaka, we took a bus to KL with the intention of leaving immediately on the train for Thailand; but found all tickets were sold out for the next week. So we decided to stick around, relax, and explore one of our favorite cities.
KL is an ever-intriguing mix of modern and traditional. Down one alley is a dilapidated apartment complex, with trash and a graveyard of rotting durian in front. Street vendors are frying everything from chicken heads to frog legs in their steamy food stalls. And yet only a few blocks away are the gorgeous and modern Petronas Towers, glistening silver, with the modern KLCC mall underneath stuffed with trendy restaurants and designer boutiques.
All of this is actually making me hungry, and my favorite Thai food stall down the street is calling my name.
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Diana
non-member comment
Amazing photos!!
I love the photo with the yellow chairs and also the photo of the very young student concentrating on his work. Melaka and St. Paul's Chapel look amazing. The photography of Reflection is stunning. I look forward to your next entries with great anticipation! Diana, from the other side of the world!