Ao Nang to Singapore - with a culture clash in Malaysia in between


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Asia » Malaysia » Kedah & Perlis » Pulau Langkawi
December 15th 2008
Published: December 15th 2008
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So enjoyed Thailand I went back to the place where I had the previous massage and before I even said what I wanted (neck, back & shoulder) the woman looked and me and said MAN - so that was it neither of us got a choice. It was fierce & dreamy! The last night in Ao Nang we walked around trying to work off the 4th indian dinner in a row, and bumped into the masseur - Jon was like - "THAT !!!!!! was the guy who was sitting on your arse massaging you?!" Yeah I guess I choose one of the larger guys! mmmmm The hotel staff were so sweet when we left - girlfriend (young, gay, braced top & bottom!) was cute and kissie - bug hugs all round. Aree Tara was fun - genuinely sad to leave the staff -they were just starting to knock our Thai into shape.

The mini van was cool - 7 off us in a van for 12, no idea where the other 5 would fit? But they always leave the bloody thing running, we get to pick up the last person - the driver gets out - takes his small dog - gets on a motor bike and buggers off while we sit there engine running. Jon reckons he thinks it's because it may not start again, the woman from the cafe he left us at came and barked (far more fierce than the dog) "TICKETS", the american guy in the back wasn't happy - but we got tickets and the driver eventually turned back up.

So to Langkawi - well you know I'm atheist and all that, so this weird religion thing doesn't do it for me, but whatever gets you through the night........But I got strange vibes from the men in the hotel - they look through you but they are staring at you - you look back and I just can't describe the feeling, they don't acknowledge you in any way but they are so looking AT you.
Only place I've been too where people wear more clothes on the beach than less.

Had a good massage on the beach - the guy was on a waiting list to register to go to Mecca - 2015 was his early date - now he didn't treat me with disdain - he certainly didn't have any trouble undoing by bikini top! Noted my muscles were hard - he asked if I did a lot of excercise?! Yeah - not with you and not for the last 5 weeks ta very much.......actually turned out he did boxing so we discussed our fav moves - mine twisting kick to the neck to hit the nerve that drops you in a nano second - can't remember his.

So we leave, bloody ferries - honestly how long does it take to park one? A good bloody half an hour it seems and of course we'd taken the latest one with what seemed like enough time so we were pushed for time. Have to say the trains were dirty compared to the thai ones. The sheets had stains - and the last person's dinner (rice & red stuff)
Had the bunk nearest the loos, bloody smelly and of course the door constantly banging, curtains for privacy? four hooks for 24 snap fastners and it stopped loads and shunted - they got the ferry driver in for that... Oh I am a spoilt bitch, actually I didn't find it too bad at the time despite the heat and the smell, it's just that
It needed some careIt needed some careIt needed some care

because at times and in places it was very reminiscent of 'The Shining'
after that it was another long train journey had to get off just at Kuala Lumpur, wait for 3 hrs then back on to Singapore.

Singapore was fun for a day..... love the fashion -go girls - whatever age you wear what the hell you like (basically like a thai teenager) and work it!

Plane into Oz was small but on the way to the loo saw 3 empty seats in a row - result! but had to change at Darwin so back to the 3 between 3. Hotel here is lush

Now for the Ant's contribution - .............. I feel he may be less politically correct 😉))


Time to wind up the SE Asian part of our trip.

The journey from Krabi down to Langkawi wasn't as arduous as we thought it may have been. The minivan down to Satun wasn't luxurious, but it had fierce aircon (maybe even a little too fierce) and only took about 5 hours including a lengthy stop before we even left Krabi. The ferry journey was only just over an hour and the sea was calm.

The signs were there though. The further south we travelled the less and less you saw of women. And more and more of vast swathes of all-encompassing swaddling clothes.

Our hotel on Langkawi was, ahem, a little in need of some care and attention, but the location was fantastic. Pantai Tengah is a gorgeous beach. It was either pissing down with rain or way too hot and humid to leave it. So we didn't. The only other bits of Langkawi we saw were in a cab either to or from the ferry port.

Once again we ended up eating at an Indian restaurant every night, if it wasn't for them vegetarians would starve in SE Asia. Well, these ones anyway.

I suppose I should have known better than to go travelling in countries that are so influenced by religion, OK, Islam in particular. The first thing that had me scowling was the notice at the bar of our Langkawi hotel. "Alcohol only served to non-Muslims". Perhaps someone could explain to me precisely whose benefit that sign was for?
I get irritated when I open a drawer in a western hotel only to find a Gideon's bible, I felt much the same when I opened the drawer and found a translation of the Quran, complete with an introductory couple of chapters explaining exactly how Islam has perfected the Abrahamic religion and, apparently, has emancipated women at the same time.
I suppose I should have realised from the way women dutifully followed their husbands at two paces behind and wore their ninja costumes to go for a jetski ride. Of course they didn't get to drive them.
B got very annoyed with me when I bristled at the bearded clown who ushered his wife and (probably) her mother to a table at the Indian restaurant then proceeded to sit himself at a different table while jerking his thumb in their direction (behind him) at the waiter and barking "water". He sat the whole time with his back to them on his mobile. I suppose I'm guilty of dragging my cultural prejudices round the world with me. Well I would, wouldn't I? I'm civilised and I have some respect for women. Although B may disagree :-0, I think it can be demonstrated quite easily that secular humanism has a much more impressive record (in a MUCH shorter timeframe) of improving not just women's rights but human rights issues full stop.
I felt a strong undercurrent of 'Dirty Kuffar' directed at most westerners while on Langkawi. That's their prerogative, it's their country, but they're promoting Malaysia very heavily as a tourist destination for westerners. It may be different in the 5 star resorts where everything is Disneyfied, at the more budget end it ain't working.

Oh yeah, I was in so much of a rant I nearly forgot. I got a great haircut there. Thanks Ashok!!


So, off on our budget travels to Singapore. Ferry from Kuah port to Kuala Kedah, small panic when we were ushered through the door clearly labelled "Kuala Perlis"....... that would have taken us to the wrong station for the train....... larger panic when the ferry took about 30 minutes to dock at Kuala Kedah, the train departure time was rapidly approaching and we were still a long way from dry land........ even larger panic when we got to the station in time and the woman behind the counter couldn't find our reservation. Ended up having to drag the laptop out of the bag and pulling up the screenshot. With very little time to spare we got into our shared sleeper bunks.
11
And more XmasAnd more XmasAnd more Xmas

and we went away to forget about it!!!!!
1/2 hours later we drew into Kuala Lumpur station very hungry. Yet another vegetarian nightmare. Ended up with McDonalds filet-o-fish (not very veggie 😞( ) and hash browns. Put it down to low blood sugar.
7 1/2 hours later, after a first class journey that didn't match the picture on Seat61's website about Malaysian Railways service, we arrived in Singapore.
Second smallest hotel room we've ever stayed in (after Manhattan), but at least it had it's own shower. In the loo. Nicely laid out though, comfortable enough for one night and the reception guy looked after our luggage for the longest time while we looked round the shops all day before catching our red-eye to Oz.
Singapore - expensive, but fun. Another veggie nightmare. We survived. How fucking precious are we?

very, you jammy bastards, lighten up for fuck's sake">
Honest, we're having a great time........ but some (most?) of you know how I love to rant 😉)


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16th December 2008

Oh dear...Veggies and atheism in one post....Now if this was the forum, I'd be having a few words to say about this! :-) Jon - "chill out" mate, as the youngsters would say. You go to a muslim country, you gotta expect to see muslim attitudes! As New Labour would tell us, celebrate the differences! (Actually, judging by B's comments about her massage, I'm starting to think it's about time you made HER wear a Burkha....(JOKE! Mrs Ant! Joke!)
16th December 2008

Fish
i was with right up until the Filet-o-Fish and then your true plight hit me. For nothing but sheer desperation would make anyone eat one of those ! Your are now back in the land of the living from my viewpoint, so enjoy !
16th December 2008

Expectations
Rick, I'll stop moaning about their customs in their countries when they stop moaning about ours. And expect us to change to accommodate their backward attitudes. Not a joke ;))) The burkha idea is one I already thought was good. Look out for the next blog entry. B looks right fit!!!
18th December 2008

I think you were mistaken
I live in Malaysia, and I think you were seeing the Arabian tourists.
20th December 2008

langkawi
i had some travel from KL (KL Central) to Arau, Perlis by train before get a ferry to Langkawi... have a look on my post >> http://anwarii.com/destination-/langkawi.html http://anwarii.com/destination-/ktmb-|-expedition-to-the-north.html

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