Nong Khiaw

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The seven hour slow boat trip upriver from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw is one the most scenic in Laos. We made our way to the boat landing on the bank of the Mekong and boarded our long boat. There was an early morning chill in the air but the sun was starting to break through the cloud and its light was dancing on the dark surface of the river. The banks were busy with locals loading goods on and off boats and people waiting to board for trips up and down the river.

Soon enough we were on our way, there were ten passengers on board plus two drivers, one of whom was about twelve. About ten minutes inot the journey we pulled up at the side of the river. Our driver had decided that the boat was too heavy so two people had to move on to a different boat. We then waited while the drivers ate their breakfast. Nothing happens quickly in Laos.

We got going again and with our lighter load started to make progress up the Mekong. After twenty five kilometers we passed the Pak Ou caves. The two caves in the lower part of a towering limestone cliff are crammed with a variety of Buddha images, a kind of graveyard where unwanted statues are placed. It was here that we left the mirky brown Mekong and continued our trip up the Nam Ou river which meets the Mekong opposite the caves.

The Nam Ou was a brilliant emerald green colour and much cleaner than the Mekong and the scenery along it became increasingly dramatic as we snaked our way up towards Nong Khiaw. The huge limestone cliffs, covered in lush green vegetation, loomed next to the river and the mountains on the horizon appeared grey and washed out through the heat haze in the air. Around every bend in the river we were confronted with a different, impossibly beautiful view. By now the sun was shining, its rays hitting the cliffs and the river creating a natural and dazling light show. The water seemed irredescent and the forest covered cliffs glimmered. it was very paeceful and relaxing, a breeze was blowing through the boat and the hum of the engine and the splashing of the water were th eonly sounds. The only interuption to our daydreaming was the passing of other boats.

We passed many villages nestled between the cliffs on the banks of the river. They were very basic communities who lead very simple lives, unchanged for many years. Naked children were playing in the river and giving us a wave as we passed. Their mothers were washing clothes, beating and scrubbing them against rocks and the men were out on little fishing boats trying to catch that nights dinner with home-made nets. For these villages life centres around the river and it is their lifeline, the main artery necessary for their existence. They wash in it, catch food from it, it is used for transportation and acts as their link to surrounding villages and they havve even started to generate electricity form its currents.

After seven hours of blissfully floating along the river we arrived in Nong Khiaw. We disembarked and slowly lugged our bags up the stairs which led up the river bank to the village. We were put to shame by the tiny local women who were unloading huge, heavy sacks of grain from the boats and carrying them up the stairs with their foreheads.

We checked into the first hostel we came to which certainbly wasn't the nicest in town, infact it was quite probably the worst, but it was cheap. It was also dark, had a cold bucket of water for a shower, a squat toilet so we had to poo like dogs and for a touch of cleass had a poster of a naked lady on the wall. You cant expect too much when you're this remote.

However Nong Khiaw is beautiful. It sits on both sides of the river, which is dotted with sand islands, and a bridge connects them. From the bridge there were incredible views of the river carving its way through the valley between the mountains. It is a very small place and has just a few dusty streets lined with rickety buildings, but due to its increasing popularity as a base for treks inot the surrounding wilderness it has its fair share of restaurants and guesthouses. the town is surrouinded by limestone karsts and that evening we watched the sunset behind them from the bridge before going for dinner. We picked the poshest looking place in town. it had four tables sat outside in a peppled area and each had a black and white table cloth and a candle. We were served by a very smily young boy and we enjoyed some beer and food under the stars. Afterwards we went to the 'cinema' which was actually just a room with cushions on the floor and a T.V where we could pick a flim to watch. There was much else to do at night here.

The next day we decided to visit the Pha Tok caves which are just outside of town. On our way we picked up two ten year old boys who became our guides. Although we didn't really need them and it soon became clear that they didn't know anything about the caves or speak English. The caves were used as a hidden headquaters for the communist Lao revolutionaries during the Vietnam war and there were signs dotted around stating what each area of the cave was used for. It was quite eerie.

Afterwards we payed our guide a small tip, even though they had done nothing, and headed back to town. You have to have a sense of humour and a lot of small change in Laos as people are trying to get money for nothing everywhere.

That afternoon we took our books down to one of the beaches by the river. The best spot had been comendeered by naked children swimming and playing and with the ridiculously overly politically correct way of thinking that has been hammered into us in England we felt a little uncomfortable. Even though the locals wouldn't think anything suspicious or perverse of us being there we fled tho other side of the river and read our books. It was a perfect place to watch the world go by. Boats were coming and going, people were swimming and the banks were a hive of activity.

We watched the sunset from a bar that evening and had a few beers whilst the last few fishing boats made their way back to town before dark.

The next morning we continued up the river to the village of Muang Ngoi.

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