Kuang Si Waterfall

---

Breakfast is served on the second-floor balcony of the hotel overlooking Sisavangvong Road. We are treated to made-to-order noodle soup, breads, fruit, noodle dishes and a rotating variety of western staples including pancakes, potatoes, bacon, and sausage. A girl could get used to this treatment. Anyway, today was our first trip outside the city to the Kuang Si waterfalls. We booked the trip through the hotel and had a private 45-minute ride along a very windy country road. We passed new developments that our driver indicated with distaste were Chinese investment. Apparently the Chinese are buying the cheap land around Luang Prabang to develop large resorts. I guess the locals are not happy with the outside attention.

The gateway to the falls is flanked by several stores selling clothes, baskets, and other trinkets ,restaurants and food stalls. The falls are not just a one-trick pony - oh no. As you make your way into the park there are several enclosures of rescued Asian bears. By this time in the morning, they were relaxing on the various platforms. After a quick look, we moved on to the main attraction - a 3-tiered 200 ft waterfall. There are shallow wading pools along the path for visitors. However, most people forge ahead to photograph or scale the falls. I did both. Crossing a narrow bridge, I found the path to the top. It is not well marked, but I confirmed with a pair of sweaty tourists that this was the correct direction. I also asked how long it takes to hike to the top. They answered with a breathy 15 minutes. Let's set the stage for this - despite the fact that it was only mid-morning, the temperature and humidity had already surpassed my threshold for uncomfortable. This "path" was not well maintained and definitely not altered to improve the visitor's experience and forget ADA compliant. This was going to be a rough steep climb. Resting several times and honestly wondering if I should just buy a postcard of the view, I did finally reach the top. Luckily no one else was on the path for my ascent and therefore no witnesses to my huffing and puffing. Once at the top, I waded through a small pond to take in the view. It was amazing; quiet; and peaceful - the sound of the falls silenced everything else and time stood still. I had the view to myself. I had to pull myself away and begin my trek to the bottom. Now, I thought going up was difficult. Down was just horrendous and masochistic. Even with my keens on, I fell several times. Most of the descent was spent sliding on my butt (not sure if those shorts will ever be clean again). I did reach the end unharmed; very dirty, but in one piece.

Afterwards we rested in the small pools at the foot of the waterfall. The water was perfectly temperate. We found a small perch to sit and relax in the waist deep water. Twenty minutes in the milky water can solve a multitude of problems. Back outside the park, we decided to feast on grilled chicken on a stick with a mild chili sauce. The meat was perfectly cooked - moist and flavorful. After some very quick shopping, we got back in our van. Just in time too, as it began to pour within minutes. It was amazing how the rain did not seem to affect the locals. As we worked our way back to the city, we passed a group of small shirtless boys playing soccer along the edge of the road. We also passed a gazing herd of water buffalo. The rain is just a fact of life here.

---