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Published: October 16th 2008
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We were greeted at small and cozy Luang Prabang airport by Bou Pan to bring us to the Lao Spirit Resort located at a river outside of the ancient town. Thomas and Christine are friends of mine from Biberach in Germany who had taken over the management of the resort 3 month ago. We were here to see how they were doing, to give them some help and also to stay longer at one place and to relax. It had rained very severe since the last weeks and the road to the resort was in a very bad shape. It was easiest to take the tar road to a nearby village and to go by boat the last 5 km. It gives you a feeling to go to a remote place in a beautiful jungle landscape with little around. We moved into one bungalow and just watched the flowing river and listened to the jungle noise. The bungalows are built on stilts in a traditional Lao style with high ceilings, wooden floors and a big terrace. Some elements like the lights were colonial style mixed with Burmese decorations at doors or windows. Unusual is the outdoor shower with blue tiles surrounded
by a stone wall to block the view from the other bungalows.
Usually I start from Luang Prabang the annual caving expedition and I am always in a hurry to get things sorted out and to lead the team. This time we stayed 12 days only in the resort and I finally could do some of the activities I always longed to do. We had a day hike to the amazing water fall of Tad Se with many water cascades and refreshing water pools. We found the way by ourselves in about 2.5 hours and I spent some time in drawing a map for other guests of the resort. Another long planned activity was the canoe trip down the Nam Khan river to Luang Prabang. There are some minor rapids to master during the 4 hour long trip and midway the grave of Angkor Wat discoverer Henri Mouhot can be visited. We had a pleasant day together with Christine, enjoyed the landscape and the wild water. We got very wet, but made it without falling into the river.
The evenings were spent with long discussions about Lao working and living style. Thomas and Christine told us about their
everyday challenges and worries running the resort. Laos looks very relaxed and laid back during a visit, but to work and live here is a different story. It starts with a working style unique to any other nation in Southeast Asia. Some of the employees even admit that they prefer to do the work in just few hours and then to relax, sleep or chat during the rest of the time. It is usual that after pay day people just disappear for days and quit only to come back when the money has been spent. I admire on one side this relaxed and unworried living style, but also have doubts what it will bring on the long run. Of course it is a challenge to a western view with a long term approach and the efforts to build something up. Laos decided more or less to let others do the work and is open for foreigners and imports most of products for daily needs. Main exports are hydropower, timber and tourism. An additional income is from international aid which makes around 20% of the national budget. Aid agencies and its workers love the relaxed life style of Laos and stay
one and support continuously as long as the government does not interfere too much. I talked with the boss of the Dutch development organization SNV. She had attended a meeting of the Japanese development bank with the governor of Luang Prabang province discussing a loan of 20 Mio US$. The governor approached the situation very open with the proposal just to give the money and not to discuss details for its usage. Of course this was refused by the bank, but it shows what is the expectation and view of some of the top government people. The resort also received a visit of the head of the district road maintenance department discussing the repair of the road. He approached the situation also very open. We do not have enough funding, please consider a contribution. The province was informed to provide money, but this can take a long time. So patience and a wait and see attitude is definitely required when living here. Power outs were regular outside Luang Prabang with unknown schedule of repair after inquiry over the hotline of the electricity company. Friday evening was the answer: “It is raining and weekend is coming. We cannot work. Maybe Monday”.
It was fortunately only Saturday afternoon. Luckily the guests of the resort were very forgiving and even enjoyed the candle light dinners with excellent food served by the resort cook and a really laid back atmosphere. Other implications were daily market visits since the fridges did not work anymore and food could not be kept a long time. Communication stopped after the battery of the satellite operated internet and telephone systems run out.
The resort was remote, but well connected to the center of actions of the world with guests from all over the planet. Two expat couples from Beijing just refilled energy after the Olympic Games and we received latest news what had happened and how China was doing with pollution and transport.
Joerg
Hitchhiking is dangerous. My parents told one of the don’t lists when I was little. I strongly believed I would be killed if I did hitchhiking. However, in rural area, it was very difficult to find transportation and hitchhiking is necessary but not obligations. This is my first experience of hitchhiking in Luang Prabang.
The day leaving for Viet Nam, we missed opportunities to get transportation to Luang Prabang airport.
Actually, I was lazy to pack my backpack morning. Joerg got so angry when he found out missing ride. He blamed me a lot. Couple hours later, one trekking company guy who picked the guests in resort offered us a free boat to Xieng Lon village. It seemed a good opportunity to go there.
When we got to Xieng Lon Village, there was nobody near the boat stop. Joerg got so crazy about wasting time and complained to miss cars that dropped guests. The place was very quiet; there were only tiny muddy road surrounded lots of grass. Only did construction guys worked near riverside. I decided to find a car. It was the stupid decision because the load was very muddy, so it was difficult to walk.
Suddenly, I saw a truck coming. I asked the guy drive us to Luang Prabang in English. He probably not understood what I said, but found out what I needed. The driver just nodded offered us the ride. Joerg was surprised I got a track.
Several loads were very difficult to drive, and his track was not a good condition. He had to stop the car to fix. After
the long ride, we paid him that he didn’t expect. We definitely found the best hitchhiking guy in Luang Prabang, Laos.
Yuki
Practicalities:
Visa on Arrival Laos 30 US$
Transport Resort - Luang Prabang 100.000 Kip
Beer Restaurant 10.000 Kip
Meal in restaurant (2 People) 100.000 - 150.000 Kip
Webpage resort: www.lao-spirit.com
Exchange: 1 Euro = 12.200 Kip
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