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Published: September 16th 2007
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When your're not looking for it, when you couldnt care less what you do with the week, thats when the special things find you. Here's what happened to me last week.
Im in Thailand, with 2 weeks to kill till Alex gets here, figured I might as well pass slowly through Laos. Dave gave me a book last Christmas - "1001 Natural Wonders to See Before You Die" and I remembered one of the pages -
the river passes through a limestone mountain for 4.5 km, emerging through a striking stalagtite lined cave mouth in a seperate valley. The river is a major throurough fare for local villagers.
Armed with this vague notion, I set out to find it. Leaving Chiang Mai, backpacker Mecca, I have no clue that I will not see another farang for 8 days. I spend one night at the bus station, the next on a bus, and end up at the Thai-Laos border at 5am. Having 4 hours till my next connection, I make a last ditch shopping spree effort, returning with 2 red dragonfruit and a cup of coffee. When I get over the border, I get a cab to the tourist
office, but its closed. The first friendly person who walks by, I enlist for help. On the back of "Spiritual Enlightenment ASAP" I sketch out a river passing through a cave. He gives me a name and tels me to skuttle or I'll miss the last 6 hour bus. This turns out to be a 12 hour ride, which I break up sleeping at another bus station. On day 4 of the journey my bus drops me off on the side of the highway, apparently in the middle of nowhere.
** This is all impossible to write about. I'll just transcribe my journal notes from here on. **
First day in Laos, and I havent got a clue where I am...but everyone seems real nice - good start! Finally jumped off the bus at a well-lit station and hour ( I think) before my destination. Wasnt about tobe dropped off on a dark country road with barking country dogs. Im hot on the trail of my cave river, which Ive found entirely without a guide book. And that feels good.
Speaking of feelings, Im so grimy, Im dreading climbing into bed with myself. Im not strong enough
to face the grimy bathroom, which prob. consists of a hole, moldy bucket and slug infested tank of water. Prel and Kleenex bath wil have to so - night!
Was right about the bathroom. Happily, the bucket was black, but water def not clear. Same faucet for al functions, including, gulp - dishes. Forgot how like jet feul is Laos coffee. Hopefuly it will lift this fog of laziness. Hardly in the mood for adventure, but glad I pressed on.
Sweet folks at breakfast taught me some Laos and Vietnamese.
Oh great, the bus has let me off at Hinboun Tai, rather than Hinboun, The $1 bus fare translates to $10 taxi. Not having it! So, Im sitting here waiting for another bus, or hitching, depending on my patience. Three women are selling veggies in front of their bamboo homes. Seems to be about 10 homes here,then nothing for miles. Kinda sweet actually. Kids, chickens, geese, and cows are everywhere. right in the middle of the road.Its like their yard just transfprms to a highway for one moment when a car comes by, then reverts
(Hinboun, proper.) A tractor with 20 kids on the back -
clothes clean but faded to match the earth and aging vilage, colors muted. 3 schol girls on shiny new bikes, crisp blue skirts and white pressed blouses, 2 monks in saffrom and yelow robes. One smokes a big horn pipe. His hair is flecked with white and his shoulder bulges with a growth the size of a softbal. One old man brings up the rear. He's hardly 4 feet tall, skin hanging off his tired strong bones. In his hand a rope, leading a giant buffalo. Sheis brown and black - beautiful. Her calf runs up to suckle the udder - he is spotted, tan and white. The end foot of his tail is completely white. Mama's bell rings as she gulps another mouthful of grass.
And me too proud to take a picture. Anyway, im hapy in my spacious sala. Hitched a ride on a sonteaw for <$1. Waiting for my next connection.
impossible to read with an audience of 10-20 vilagers. After 2 hours bumpy ride on dirtroads, Ive reached the end and have to turn back. Im not sure these people have ever seen a farang in their town before. Its amazing being so far
from everyone. No - body speaks english. The road was so bad I couldnt stand on the tailgate and branches scratched my back through the songteaw walls.
I agreed to go dancing and am seemingly stuck at the vilage party. My hostess sells the beer. My entourage of kids continues.
*** this is taking too long. I cant tell this story properly in text, damn it. I'll just sum up then. ***
I stayed 2 days at that village. They wouldnt take a penny from me! There was an amazing cave I explored a few times. I bathed in the river. An entourage of 10-20 kids followed me everywhere. I at laap - meat salad. I havent a clue what kind of meat. I tel myself seafood, but Im afraid those tubes were not squid. I also had to eat a bite of buffalo skin. These harry strips hang in the storefronts. I took a few photos of them and asked about them, so the kids cooked some up for me. Actualy they were delicious, cartilidginous, salty.
Right, so, I had to go back the bumpy road, take 2 more songteaw, and hitchhike twice to get
to the river that goes through the cave. There was a french guy on one songteaw who told me he heard it cost $50 to get there. I was so committed at this point, I didnt care though. He was right, the boatman wanted $50 fucking dollars. In a countrywhere a meal is 50 cents, a 3 hours ride $2 and a hotel $5. Oh well, though. It was round trip after all. I took the boat ride and was instantly happy.
" OMG, so beautiful it hurts. want to cry at ineptitude of camera and self. If sun were shining would be crying by now. Mouth is hanging open. Passing constant villages, villagers, fishing nets are big domes. we pass a misty blue lagoon. a blast of icy airhits me as we pass the enchanted tributary, which hugs a limestome cliff. probably the air comes out of a hidden cave. no photo, naturaly. I swear that falcon was headed for my nose! 20 kids in 6 canoes just passed by - going to another blue lagoon."
I stayed at a village 2 nights. Bathed every day in the river in a sarong my hostess gave me. I
stayed with a family that does homestays, but had no english. For $5 a day I was fed, clothed, and housed. They were really sweet and wanted to talk constantly though we had no common language! On the second day a boat took me into the cave. It is actualy 7.5 km long and exactly the cave from Lord of the Rings. I expected dragons and trolls around every corner. The best part was when the 20 foot tunnel ceilings would open into 200 foot caverns, which happened about 10 times around every bend.
15 minutes past the cave was another village. It seemed smaler and more rural, but 50 kids rushed out to the river as we pulled up! it was bath time, maybe school had just gotten out. Half of them were naked.
I have to stop now. I just cant explain the beauty without poetry. I feel like Ive failed. I wanted to tell the best story ever, but there's too much. Im in Vientienne now, the capitol of Laos, drinking coffee, eating Indian food, riding a bicycle. But Ive been at this computer for hours and I have to go! My butt is all
sweaty. Maybe I'll write more later. Better yet, ask me about it when you see me next.
love,
m
One last thing, I write the day I left.
'Somewhere over the rainbow' I startedsinging this morning while following 2 little girls through the rice. There we were: skipping, running, laughing singing. Barefot splashing through the warm shallow water on a bright over cast mroning. Where were we? Somewhere without troubles or cares,thats for sure! i have to sday, though, having been there, these 'troubles' seem to vanish instantaneuosly, much faster than melting lemondrops.
A day of travel is a month of so called life.
A moment fully experienced is 6 years.
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Mary Ann Toohey
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Somewhere over the rainbow are you!
Wish I were with you for just a part of your miracle. Love you, Mom Your are a wonderful writer and photographer. xoxoxo I am so happy reading your writing and looking at these children and people and all the beauty that my eyes are full of tears. Thank you!