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Published: February 9th 2008
Monkey Face
Such sweetness and sadness simultaneously in this cute little human-like being's face. I spent hours with him...he also peed on me ;)Monkey!
Well...it got your attention didn't it? Yes, I was fortunate enough to connect with a wee monkey. The details of it's reality are not so fortunate though. I will tell more later.
I am back in Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand, after taking a bus across the border from Pakse, Laos. I am burning up a few hours with 3 other travelers who are all headed back tonight on a sleep train. We almost didn't get on this train as it was full, we stood around trying to figure out what to do when the ticket attendant waved us over and let us know there were 4 cancellations and that we could have these 4 second class sleeper spots. What a relief! It would not have been the end of the world, but probably a somewhat expensive inconvenience.
So...my trip to Pakse FROM Ubon on the 3rd of February went well, though a little uncomfortable, as there was standing room only on the bus...and then quite a long and hot wait at the border. I made it into Pakse, a travelers hub-bub filled with backpackers heading on to various locations in the surrounding area. I walked around, sweating profusely in the heat
Novice Monks in Pakse, Laos
Such beautiful faces, these boys loved the opportunity to practice English, and here they are looking at a digital camera's pic on someone else's camera...love their faces. of the day (and this is the 'cold season!?) while looking for a guesthouse, amazingly almost all of them were full, so finally I settled on a slightly more upscale than I would have liked budget-wise Chinese hotel called "The Great Wall Hotel", it was a HUMONGOUS room with AC and two beds, one queen and one large single....couches, tables, tv etc. All for a whopping $10 US. Not so bad 😊
That night I met a sweet older woman from Sweden traveling alone at the backpacker central of Nazim Indian restaraunt and she invited me to sit with her as there were no available tables. I enjoyed my meal and conversation with her, but even more I delighted in meeting the two men sitting next to our table, Sasha (Australian now in Amsterdam) and Menno (Dutch). We all chatted about world politics, climate change, health care, travel alone vs. with a companion, Laos vs. Thailand travel etc etc. They were headed in the same direction as myself the next morning so we met again at the mini-bus that was to shuttle us down to the beautiful southern-most region of Laos called Si Phan Don, or Four Thousand Islands. We
Laotian woman selling coconut sticky rice
This woman was so sweet, and so was the sticky rice that was packed into this pieces of roasted bamboo.... spent one night on Don Khong 'the big island' and ate delicious food on verandas that hung out over the Mekong and was shaded by huge bougainvilla and mango trees. We could feel our heart-rates slowing down to a quiet and peaceful pace and took nice long walks along the river. The next morning we took a long tail boat down to Don Det, which has many many more tourists and despite the absurd amount of guesthouse/bicycle rental/restaraunt/travel agency combo places lining the entire coastline, it amazingly seems to retain a lot of the traditional, self-sufficient and sustainable lifestyle that has likely existed for hundreds or thousands of years. They grow their own rice, veggies, fruit and even little herb gardens in small raised beds and much of this is actually served in restaraunts. They grind/pound their own rice flour, raise chickens, pigs and water buffalo and live a very simple yet incredibly happy lives.
I tried to eat at a different place every meal and tried wonderful new dishes (though there is not any truly traditional and authentic Lao food because there is very little unlike Thai food), like Laap Paa (minced fish with lime juice, fresh mint, little
Water Buffalo and Bougainvilla
The Mekong river in the background...these beautiful beasts are so gentle and slow moving, just like the Laotian people...they were everywhere, just roaming around freely bit of chilli, and basil...so amazingly good, and also fish steamed in Banana Leaf, also quite tastey. The second day on Don Det the three of us rented bikes and peddled down to Don Khon, where the Li Pi waterfalls are, which are actually just some major rapids in the Mekong River.
My main goal in Laos was to merely sink into true relaxation, which fortunately I was able to do for at least 2 days. Lazing in my hammock, watching the mekong life flow by, reading my book and writing postcards was my favorite 'activity'.
On my way back to Pakse from Don Det I met a fabulous couple, Shelly and Brent, from Seattle, Washington who are on an amazing 8 month trip inlcuding India, Nepal, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and beyond. We really connected and when we arrived into Pakse decided to share a room at the Great Wall Hotel, and ended up in the same enormous room I had stayed in before! We had a spectacular dinner on the rooftop terrace of the utlra-posh Pakse Hotel while watching the sunset and having 360 degree views of the surrounding mountains and the Mekong and Se Dong Rivers. WOW. Delightful.
Cute little Lao Girl
She was SO posing for my camera, giggling and showing me this rattan ball they use for a volleyball-with feet kind of game...we played with her and her siblings and a puppy for at least an hour Then we stayed up late talking and exchanged information, promising on our trip to the Pacific Northwest that we would stop and visit, and they may even be able to come our to our beautiful home on their way back up the coast!
I feel so fortunate to have met an array of great people that I have been able to connect with so easily. I truly put this in my heart and mind as an intention and the universe keeps revealing pure and beautiful opportunities to connect. I feel so blessed.
I'm certainly thinking about home again, what will I do for work, how I will I ajust to the cold, can't wait to hug and kiss all over Dave...these types of things...and of course, how much I miss all of you! My tribe!
Sending you all oodles of love and hugs,
~Heather Beth~
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Karen Gimbel
non-member comment
Good on you!
Darling - I'm so thrilled to read about your trip, and to see some of the sights you've seen. I especially like that you had a full 2 days (at least) of relaxation! That takes a lot of courage and determination to do - so congratulations! (You never know 'who' you'll meet when you let down the 'guard' of full-on doing and busyness!) I'm proud of you and your solo travel! And, I know that you miss Dave - and will be glad to get home. But enjoy the journey while you're there! xo Mom