Day 6 - Tokyo to Takayama

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Geo: 36.15, 137.24

After an early morning battle with a single mosquito that tried to eat Thomas, (resulting in Tom sharing my futon, and Steven sharing Matt's - not the most comfortable arrangements!), we got up, breakfasted and packed up our Tokyo townhouse. It's been great - so close to everything, so quiet, and as usual, I had thirty loads of washing so having a little house was so useful. We just dropped the key back in the letterbox on departure - AirB&B worked brilliantly for us this first time!

The transfers between the stations had me worried during the night - how would we manage rush hour, 4 children, 4 suitcases and two different trains to even get to Tokyo station to catch the bullet train? Well, it was so simple. Lifts in most places, kids walking single file with big one looking after little one (can't class Tom as little - he's generally the tallest man in the Metro!). We made it with 40 minutes to spare, allowing time for us to buy some bizarre Japanese cake things (eggs of cake with caramel sauce inside!) and to read the boys excellent report cards using the free wifi at the station.

Then onto the bullet train to Toyama! Very spacious, not very new, and great views to Mt Fuji as we left the city and up through the mountains as we crossed the Honshu island. The kids couldn't believe it when we started to see snow on the ground!

THEN IT SNOWED!!!!!

You would not have believed the squeals of excitement, as we realized that the rain had turned to swirling flurries and then proper snow - lots and lots of snow, falling and coating the ground! I'm sure the Japanese on the train thought we were crazy - but Olivia had only seen snow fall and not settle (in Washington a couple of years ago) and whilst our kids have seen plenty of snow, they'd never seen it falling. It was wonderful!

We arrived in Takayama, where it was only lightly snowing and (after booking our tickets to Kyoto on Sunday afternoon), we stepped straight into the ryokan's shuttle bus. When we arrived, we were ushered inside where our shoes were spirited away - we caused much consternation when, two minutes later, when the snow started again, the kids wanted to go outside and feel it!

After a welcome drink (I can now decline powdered green tea for the rest of my life!), the girls selected their kimono, which we wear in the ryokan. Aya (our hostess, who has been Choosing our kimonos appointed to look after us for all of our stay here) showed us to our suite - we have a room with tatami mats and a "close to the ground" table and chairs, an empty room (where, she explained, our bedding will be set up whilst she is serving us dinner) and a room with two beds (Steven and I have "bags-ed" them tonight!), and a bathroom. The boys were dressed in their kimonos - less colorful than ours - and we were all taught to tie our obi (belts). We also all have tabi socks (imagine sock mittens) for us to wear in the ryokan.

Then.....we told the kids the news. The onsen (hot springs) which are a big part of this region are single sex onsens, but nudie-rudie, with a little towel to protect your dignity. So the boys went one way, and us girls went the other. Poor Olivia - at least the rest of us are family - but as I told the girls, at 43, I now realize how beautiful they are at 14...and just hang on to the towel!!!

It was incredible. No photos, obviously, but there was an indoor room with 2 pools, each about 90cm deep. We stripped and then washed before entering the water - we were the only ones there, and we all carefully avoided eye contact. Then, once thoroughly warmed, we went outside - again, another beautiful stone bath the size of a big spa, the water was steaming hot - about 50 degrees, and through the red maple leaves, the snow was falling around us. It was incredible - something outside our comfort zone but amazing. The boys later reported that their experience was the same and they loved it too.

An hour relaxing in the room (we also went downstairs to try the foot bath, which is more hot spring waters and outdoors, but after 5 mins, decided we were too cold. Then we gave the kids their next cultural experience - and I couldn't have been prouder of them!

Dinner was an 11 course Japanese banquet. With some of the most "out there" foods these kids have ever been asked to try. Some tried the sashimi tuna and roe, a couple really liked the whole small fish on a skewer ("please pick out the spine and avoid its sharp teeth"😉, no one really liked the sea cucumber, sea urchin or sea snail - but everyone liked the grilled hida beef!!! Aya served us one course after another...every item so beautifully presented. You couldn't have asked more of the kids, who have all tonight tried somethings they would NEVER agree to try at home - all part of the experience! Tomorrow night is sukiyaki, which we know that they all enjoy....

When we got back to the room, the meals room had been transformed with futon mattresses. The girls contemplated sleeping in a separate ante-room, but were convinced to share with the boys by the underfloor heating! Slumber party, Japanese style!!

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