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Published: June 17th 2008
Well June 14th was certainly a memorable one.
The weather in Otaru, placed about 43 degrees north of the equator, is understandably cool and mild at this time of year. I have so far been fortunate with good traveling conditions, especially when carting a pack about up and down train platforms and getting all hot and sweaty at times (such as in the wet season in Kyuushuu or Shikoku), doing it is not fun! A small city of ~140,000 people, with map in hand, it is easy to explore on foot, and well known for music boxes, glassware and canals (unga). The canals stretch about 1.5km through the city water-frontage, and at night was brightly lit with lanterns, street lamps and a great big cruise ship - these evidently trawl the waters each year, on no doubt some Japanese or other tour experience!
The JR Otaru train station plonks you at the edge of the township, which is divided in to four main zones: central (commercial area), canal (all the glam of souvenirs, glassware etc, very pretty), romantic (spots around Marchen square) and gourmet areas (‘foodies’ paradise). Apart from canals, Otaru entertains with shrines, such as the Sumiyoshi, old
Otaru baseball game
Stumbled across this saturday morning sports game nr Otaru park on the hillside. Next to soccer, Yakyuu (baseball) is as popular as rugby and netball in nZ!wharf trading warehouses, a steam clock (!) and many opportunities to shop! Take your pick from vases, earrings, glasses, plates………….all beautifully handcrafted in by local skills and fairly affordable at that.
This morning at about 8am, unbeknownst to me, there was a large earthquake in Sendai province, about half way from Tokyo to Hakodate in Hokkaido. I felt nothing obviously being ~800km north on another island, but soon found out that my plans to meet Chihiro, my ‘penpal’ of 16 yrs, would not eventuate. I managed to catch the 9.37am train to Sapporo from Otaru, heading to Tokyo by way of 4 train switches, and involving the major shinkansen line of central japan, the Toohoku shinkansen. After realizing that the tickets I had so carefully put in my belt bag had gone missing from last night (?), I went through the motions of explaining this loss in Japanese as no-one spoke English on this trip. The staff made an exception I think for me, and reserved another seating plan for the day, which was to be my last JR pass eligibility day (usually a reservation costs $60-80 per leg of trip and a one way shinkansen ride 20,000yen o$260
approx!).
So I was lucky! But, the clause given me to me by the station attendant of ‘a possible delay of unknown duration’ meant I was in limbo with Chihiro’s plans, and our rendezvous that evening at the very large loud and crowded Tokyo station. Why the delay and how long?……..…no one could tell me. So I was blissfully unaware until after Hakodate when I kept hearing the word ‘jishin’ from the other passengers, which has several meanings, but one of which is earthquake. The penny finally dropped why we could not go any further after having a conversation in Japanese with some people from Morioka - the tracks were under investigation for minor cracks, and the small tremors or aftershocks from the big 7.2 quake being sufficient to close the shinkansen lines, at least that day. The alternatives were standby air travel on ANA at $450 (but try getting a seat, and not all train cities have airports!), another night in the north, or trying to make it to Tokyo or as close as possible by that evening. So I then continued to conspire plans a, b, c and d, by figuring out alternative train routes to Tokyo.
Otaru warehouses
beside the canal district, this is a lovely place for for wandering and sightseeing As there is no way out of Hachinoche in north Honshuu BUT by shinkansen, I decided to get off earlier at Aomori - this small city has an airport and two options for slow local train travel!
It seems everyone else had the same problem and plans as I, and soon the ticket office had a queue out the door of the actual station (about 30 people long at a guess!). I executed plan B, that is get to Akita in west honshuu, thus avoiding the quake disruption on the trains and roads. This was my only yet slow option, and after a long trying day, many a train conversation about what the quake had done to peoples homes etc, and getting pretty tired, I got to Akita. So did everyone else, and I just wrangled the last bed at my previous Akita digs for the night, at the Naniwa hotel. The lady ryokan owner was literally shaken, as their inn had had a bad tremor earlier that day after Sendai, and although I did not get a good room (no smoking, or with fridge like last time), I was glad to have a bed. Thereafter I tried to
use a public phone to call my friend, but with the internet down and problems calling internationally, communication was naught. I had little choice but to try the hotel massage chairs, a ‘comfort’ helping of soba and that high quality ofuro (bath) I have posted a photo of before in order to relax!! A fax the next day after 40 mins of trying assured mum and dad all was okay, after hearing of the grade 7.2 quake in NZ. Those primary school earthquake lessons in Gisborne under the desks sure would come in handy but thankfully I did not have to use them!!
So I got to see a bit of Akita after all. My last stint was pre-Tazawako, and that forced an early start. The Senshuu park is just lovely, and accommodates the Akita joo, home of the Kubota clan, a tea ceremony house, wide city views, and tranquil spots in which to reflect or enjoy. I popped into the police station to get my lost memory card claim number for possible insurance purposes, and got lots of advice from the friendly staff on where to buy the best camera and computer equipment before my 12 ish departure…at
which point I stumbled on this quirky department store where the real locals shop!!!!. That shopping expedition lasted longer than usual, but by taking in the riverside and park areas also for some photos and wandering, I was happy AND safe.
So the route down to Niigata (safer option, but longer!) took 4 hrs along lovely blue ocean, akin to the Hauraki gulf, and a quick transit to the Jooetsu line saw me heading rapidly to Tokyo station (2hrs approx) to meet Satoshi-san (father) and her. Plans for Disneyland NOW were instantly, and a lunch the next day at his tavern, which he has owned for many yrs. Disneyland has twilight passes for 4700 yen which you use after 3pm, but having only 2 hrs from 8-10pm, it was pretty tight for time. We met Mickey in Toontown, Chihiros choice, but then I hankered for some excitement…………………..it was a 45 minute wait to meet this giant rodent, and teach Mickey Mouse how to do a hongi but it was surely worth every minute! ‘Splash mountain’ brought out the screamer in me after many yrs not going to theme parks, and it was great fun if a bit damp sitting
no train nor track
post earthquake destruction, via TV at the back of the boat. What a ‘happy small world after all’ this was. If only it could have lasted the whole day as we had planned to repeat the screaming process over and over again but with extended whanau!! Many train changes later and it was just 5 hrs sleep………… before rising to take her kids to school on Monday morning.
I was the school novelty I think, meeting the principal, deputy, the 29 yr old school teacher (why is this fascination with age and employment SO important? Oh that’s right, we females are ‘stale Xmas cake’ after 25 and good only for office work??)…………..the thoughts of the kids go something like this…’look at that gaijin over there, lets practice our HULLOS and HOW ARRR YOOO?s…’.
The classes are only 20-22 kids big, the roll is called and Ohayoo Gozaimasu’s (good morning) practiced as a group. Then it is 10 mins quiet reading time about all matter of subjects such as sensible gardening and recycling practices (age 10 yrs). Lunch is at 1pm and they pay about $80 per month for this benefit. After viewing the school garden and their adopted planting area of ‘morning glory’, we
Otaru transport
visions of uni days, it's my little blue mini.... headed via a small hospital clinic back home again……….other reasons, yet an interesting insight into the Japanese healthcare system……….then went into town for some sightseeing and lovely yakitori lunch care of chihiros very talented father, satoshi san.
Tokyo by now was hot and humid, windless, and bustling in the Ueno, and Asakusa districts. Here it is full of gaijins (foreigners), and we got to Asakusa temple (Sensoji temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan) for some wafting smoke and quick breaths to encourage good health, happiness and other forms of prosperity for a princely 100yen! A fast lunch later, it was off to the airport for farewells and last minute yen spending on 100yen sakes, shoochu, pokkie chocolates and gum; easily done!! If only I was not so embarrassed by the excessively lavish present giving from her to my family and myself…it seems to be a losing battle, and as a Japanese, knowing a gaijin is evidently a sought after feature in ones life.
So that’s it. The flight home was good, and went quickly albeit 14 hrs of it (via Kansai, a cheaper option!), and I am now sufficiently stuffed and looking forwards to perhaps the next
Otaru fauna
the local wildlife is pretty severe and grisly here trip after some more serious saving and planning.
And now for the corny analytical bit.......
Travelling in Japan has made an impact on me I think..………..just today I popped into the supermarket and people did NOT say excuse me, or thankyou, they did not bow when I purchased my goods, it was busy with fewer people yet chaotic, there was some barging past each-other, and outside, hurried motorists without white gloves, that speed ahead of slow coaches yet come to a halt due to a queue of cars..... Naze (why)?
I am no longer in Japan.
The end!
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