The Return - Snow and Ice in Yamagata and Northern Honshuu

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A three year gap in time has gone unusually quickly. When the decision to travel again arose after Japan’s borders opened in October 2022, resuming a travel blog was with mixed emotions, particularly being the way the world is now. However, with our usual “when in Rome do as the Roman’s” philosophy, respect for local customs and people, and precautions fitting the traveler’s we are, we are here and here it begins. The ‘old friend’ of the Hotel Radisson seemed to be in the throes of an upgrade, that led us to choose the Narita Hilton for the arrival hotel instead. Ten years on from the 2013 ‘Ma, Pa and translator’ trip when I was last there, the place was still fading in decor but quiet, and far from the busyness of then. So much so, having never ventured to an indoor pool since the outbreak in NZ mid-2021, the pool attendant in response to “isogashii desuka?” said “I am it”. Except for a brief cameo from an Japanese man in the adjacent spa, I was alone. Once back at Narita Terminal two, we validated the first of two JR passes with a curious lady who was interested as to why I’d returned for a ninth time. “Let me count the ways” I thought, although the list was not exhaustive enough, according to P2, to omit the many historical or cultural reasons. And Toto washlet toilets. Onwards to Yamagata meant a trip on the Narita express into Tokyo station, followed by a Shinkansen. The station for a weekday was not too crazy, and there was time to get lost in the many shops seeking out bento boxes for lunch. We even felt confident enough to drop our masks briefly to eat en route (like the old days) in generally a quiet train carriage. Yamagata had been where we forever refer to as ‘Yakitori Man’ ran his roadside food stall, and we were hoping to catch sight of his food truck and indulge again in his kebabs. Sadly, the parking lot he placed himself at, as much of Yamagata, was piled high with snow mounds, pushed aside in the recent storm. Retired or moved on, who knows, but his grilled sticks were very good! Snow had definitely piled up in this season, and upon returning to Omoshiroyama station the next day we virtually began in snow shoes, crossing the over bridge, and slowly ‘wading’ up to the top to reach Tendo Kogen ski field, in clear skies with views over the mountains. We found some trails closed from that point, and safely so perhaps given the terrain on one side of the range, and deep snow. The military were even ‘sorting the wood from the chaff’ with XC ski training of young men up a rather steep hill! The wind got up, light snow began to fall, hot soup was sipped, and down the hill we came in time for the train back. Further down the line, Yamadera called, and we made a decision to climb up the many uneven steps again, this time faced with a frank warning of ice, falls risk and essential preparedness, that transpired to be entirely accurate. A combination of abseil technique for descent and heavy deliberate footing for the ascent worked well, but admittedly it was very slippery! The incredible views were worth every step and the amazake drink as good as we’d had those years before. Yet with all the rain and snow/ snow melt, drainage doesn’t seem a problem. There’s evidence everywhere, be it what I’d call pavement grills, narrow street-long water channels, and large flood control basins where water is channeled beneath the surface. The preparedness for emergencies, of many types, appears well ahead of what we’ve experienced. Transferring to Tendo onsen that afternoon was a short ride, and immediately we were in a snowier landscape. One ‘miss’ was entering the wrong hotel 100m too early, using their toilet before check in, and then realising our mistake, us apologising profusely (I’ll blame the similar signage kanji I mis-recognised). Next door was the Tendo hotel, and we were whisked through check in quickly to find our tatami home for the next while. A ‘planned budget excess’, this place was worth it simply for the outdoor onsen, views, and large Japanese style room. A few things were mulled over for day trips, and we settled on the local hill and shrines, and Ginzan onsen. Our research led me to think think taxi could be affordable (it’s wasn’t), or bus service convenient if it ran in February (as it had not on our last trip). Getting a little more info from the front desk staff, I was told much had changed from 2020. Of course the popularity of Ginzan which seems to have ramped up since 2018/2019 might be a factor for us. So when almost all the passengers from our train carriage piled off at Oishida (and from subsequent carriages too), pushing to exit the platform into the tiny train station, to then take the one bus due to go 45 mins after, we decided against it. Instead we had a lovely time wandering around the shrines in Oishida, seeing ice sculptors at work and being fascinated with road water ‘spouts’ used to stop ice forming during what became a heavy snowfall afternoon. That crammed bus to Ginzan had not left when we came back to the station ten mins after the scheduled departure, and a queue was still 15 or so people long. Best left for those that don’t mind the heavy crowds, we headed back by train to Murayama, which as more snow fell, looked chocolate box beautiful with the white-coated trees on the hill above town. We called into Cafe Adore for a coffee to warm our hands, having tried atsuimono from the vending machines several times already. It was sub zero and snowing, so was a case of survival by vending machine hot drinks when our thermos ran out. Back in Tendo when getting food for the evening we walked behind a young girl dragging as best you could a suitcase from the station in a fresh fallen 20-30cm of snow. As she had 1km to go from our hotel we wished her “Gambarimasu”! Our departure to Sakata from Tendo left after midday allowing a morning onsen (much quieter than evening) and a short stride up the hill, in what was now 15-20cm more snow than the night before and beautifully clear. Had we not packed our snow shoes away, and more time, we could definitely have used the hill for some exploring. The bullet train took us as far as Shinjo, although due to the heavy snow fall, transferring to Sakata meant a substitute bus service was in place going through the hills to Amarume, and then a flat run from there by train for 15 minutes into Sakata. Mount Chokai loomed into view, the sun came out, and another vending machine treat tried. Our host of an Airbnb was very welcoming on arrival and understanding after our deliberate slow amble there (via an afternoon tea stop at Homma gardens). The two storied ‘home away from home’ was our base for the next three nights, and as snow storms rolled in, essentially cosy and warm. One day began deceptively sunny, which was to be our out of Sakata day, exploring Fukura and surrounds. This region is known for Buddhist figures carved into large seaside rocks, reached within a 2.5km walk from the small station. However as the wind rose, the rain started and jackets got tightened. We had the time with our long train layover to take in a blue tinged lake, and even stumbled across an ancient pit, right beside a highway and the JR train line. Sakata is well known for its rice (Sankyo) storehouses and canals being a port, and therefore old shipping lines passed via here. In times past, transport was in old vessels similar to a large Polynesian canoe, or other early explorers (there’s one on display at the canals). And Hiyoriyama park west of Sakata station was made artificially so that good views could be had in these seafaring times (meaning ‘fair weather hill’). It’s now a beautiful garden to walk around, and houses a old wooden lighthouse. After an unsuccessful (expensive) replacement passport wallet mission that ended well at the hyaku-en shop, we repeated the Homma site theme by attending their museum, garden and residences over the days in Sakata. The Homma family helped provide employment in winter times for out of work port workers, and the architecture (Samurai and Merchant) certainly comes to life with snow around (contrasting dark - light). The storm really set in on leaving Sakata. After a small misunderstanding about transport with our host, we changed the walk to a ride to meet our afternoon ‘wanman’ departure to Akita. Fifteen years before I’d been here in a warm early summer after diversion from an earthquake affecting the Honshuu Shinkansen lines, and so the hazy street memory and presence of snow meant I had no navigation skill. P2 took up the reigns to get us 2.4km walk away along the “snow melt” path to our abode in Nakayama, near the Aeon mall. Yooichi san and his wife Kimiko san lived on the ground floor of a two story tiny house, and the upstairs apartment had all we needed, so much so that (without a builders tape measure) P2 took iPhone measure and photo records of the set up. The Japanese know well how to make use of space! Akita is at the gateway to Senboku, Tazawako. On the morning of our one full day, when heavy snow had fallen overnight, we headed off in clearing skies for Kakunodate spending a quick two hours seeing Samurai houses very much at a glance. The snow now became mush as the skies cleared, and we got back onto the Shinkansen to Tazawa for the next step of the journey. Speaking to the Tazawa tourist office, it soon became apparent that more time would be needed for the recommendation of Yooichi san, Tsurunoyu or Ganiba onsen, with bus connections and the quoted (price out of reach) taxi fare of ¥9000. Plan B was actioned taking the circular bus to Tazawa lake and alighting for a few hours at Tatsuka shrine. Calm weather gave way to snow showers, that the bus and vending machine products were anticipated for their warmth. Contingencies / washing seen too once at home, we were invited for evening ‘English practice’ with a sociable Yooichi san who turned up producing various snacks and drinks, which we dipped our masks to imbibe now quite deftly. Seems Instagram and Facebook at the very least were some of his media platforms as an active 72 year old, much more than mine. He was a former triathlete, and his (or indeed a really nice looking road bike) hung in the stairwell, as he still rode. Returning next to the Shizukuishi Prince hotel was at my insistence upon planning this trip, and in our new slow travel philosophy, I arranged three nights at what we knew we’re facing, the large hotel style and grand location - a ‘ski in out’ resort based in an incredibly scenic area. As the majority, it’s skiers that venture, and as the single minority, for us it’s snow shoeing. I’d again highlight and well use the onsen but as we often discovered, only at selected times if you dislike crowds. It could well afford an upgrade in the era of avoiding closed, congested and poorly ventilated spaces, particularly when it was not just gaijin going against the hotel’s request to simply wear a mask. The weather oscillated between persisting heavy snowfall, crisp clear mornings with snow draped trees and ending, like we learned elsewhere in Japan now, with wet snow that meant we’d sink deeper into our steps on the course. One particularly beautiful red toori (gate) was captured on just the right day, in view of Iwate san and showing months of snow layering beneath it. The spring thaw may well have begun. A sake brewery, the one operational vending machine in rural Shizukuishi, and a riverside picnic at Kakkonda-gawa made up the days until it was time to happily leave the resort bustle for equally bustling Morioka. I’d never stayed long enough to explore before, but Morioka has begun to surprise and enchant. Icy and cold by nature, P2 had done the research for town and snow shoe options. In the old town of Morioka, we chanced on the 5 san tei (birthplace of Yoko Mihara), a town house from the Meiji period which was marked by him for a visit. At first glance, beside road works, it appeared closed but within a minute of admiring it outside, we met a handyman doing some upkeep in the “yasumi” (town holiday) that was on that day, who then offered to show us around. On came the slippers, and immediately the owner of a Ma n Pa establishment across the road thrusted a historic map into P2s hand. How did he know! The grapevine worked well as our guide mentioned how “timely” our visit was with a New York Times and NZ connection from the preceding week, which I did not quite get the understanding of. We just had to thank the attentive map provider by attending his shop, which again at first glance had coffee and fishy treats. Several people came to purchase items in paper bags, and soon Mama-san came out with hot tea that I got curious if they were buying equivalent of fish bites and chips, without the chips. Long story short, Kanan fish centre offers sweet treats, so our fish came with purple bean filling just like Yooichi’s. Yum! Mama-san chimed in “the mandarin ones are good too” as we made our choice. Good old fashioned service and our first experience “eating out” albeit very brief, and pleasantly quiet. Coming home through the castle ruins, taking in a walk-by of a sake brewery, P2 accidentally set off the alarm in the one public toilet we found open. The Morioka authorities did not come to rescue him, but with a repeat push of the button, I did. Hanamaki was a good opportunity to see their castle by early evening light later that day, and by now the full effect of the forecast icy night was felt, down to -8C in Morioka. A cosy hotel (very nice Daiwa Roynet) and in-room bath called, as we again downed the wonderful supermarket bought meals we are conjuring up. The benefit of an icy cool night was a following clear day. Six years prior we’d gone to Appi kogen resort, but having been led by where to hire snow shoes then, we were now self sufficient with our Spain purchased ones. The dense snow walls as we traveled up the valley by train were exiting, and it was even more thrilling to hike when breaking fresh snow by the golf course in a snow capped tree scene. Just beautiful! And of all places, as we exited the tiny station with two others, I got talking to a Japanese guy who was born in Taiwan and raised in Takapuna, Auckland. What a small world. Back in to town, we’d planned to take a quick afternoon trip to Shin-Hanamaki of which the Shinkansen makes eleven minutes work of. Here we could take a short walk to one of P2s recommendations, Kenji Dowa Mura, an author and artists fairytale village created as part of a tribute to his reasonably short but full life. We got to see a fraction of the sections of the mura (there’s museums also) at the more playful part that focuses on storytelling and artistic displays. It was great to contrast the active days and temple / shrine visits with something cultural, and “must learn more about the people” was our feeling here. Before heading from Morioka we had a short few hours of wandering that simply evaporated before the Shinkansen took us Shin-Aomori, then Aomori (the station in a state of flux with a brand new upstairs area, showcasing ancient relics, alongside exterior scaffolding and multi story construction in process). Our layover allowed me to grab some overpriced fruit/ vege downstairs before the private train line to Asamushi onsen. By now, heavy snowfall had begun again, and luckily our accommodation, Yadoya Tsubaki, was by the station. The well known aquarium was on our radar, as was a short hill climb that could involve the annoying ‘unpack-repack rigmarole’ for snow shoes, or in our case, just using boots and following snow shoe tracks, that broke fairly deep snow in parts of the 1km trail. We discovered more trailheads for beyond, and indeed more old and young folks out for a days snow hike on this Emperors birthday public holiday! The aquarium was equally a popular spot on such a day and we were well stimulated not just with rowdy youngsters but by seeing the wide range of fish from Aomori and abroad, including ancient (appearance) fish, fish living in a pH of 3 in Lake Usari, and tiny jellyfish and stingrays the size of your finger. Stepping back into the ryokan, we had for the second night in a row at least one more private onsen to ourselves, pondering how in earth can we transfer this experience to NZ without costing what it does there. Toto washlet bathroom ware could be the answer!

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