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Published: January 1st 2007
This is Marc with my first attempt at a blog entry. I am not near as good a writer as is Arlene so please bear with me.
Trains and Subways
When we were searching for apartments, one of our goals was to keep my commute to one hour each way. It is close. In the morning I walk down the hill and around the corner a few minutes to Azabu Juban subway station. Then, it is down three staircases and an escalator to the turnstiles and then down another staircase to the track all in around seven minutes. If I time it right, the subway should be just arriving. It is then eleven minutes in an almost empty car (I am usually on 0626 subway) to Shinjuku Station. Shinjuku is the busiest train station in the world. I have seen reports of two to seven million people per day (of which I make up 1, 2 (morning and afternoon) or 4 (morning and afternoon and Toei Oedo and Keio lines)). However, when I get there in the morning, it is relatively quiet.
For my first few weeks, I was going up two very long escalators to almost street level, walking around four minutes through an underground mall, and then entering the turnstiles for the Keio which is a private railway company. Two weeks ago, I found a shortcut that removes the four minute walk by letting me go through an underground passageway right to the Keio track that I need.
A few words about the Keio Line. It is a private railway that services western Tokyo. They have three major spurs. They operate local, express, semi-express, semi-special express, commuter rapid, and rapid trains. I have learned not to get on a rapid train as they are anything but rapid (more like a local with a couple of missed stations). I always go to Track 3 as that is where all the express, semi-express, semi-special express, and commuter rapid trains depart from. In the morning, any of these trains (at least the ones going to Keio-Hachioji or Takaosanguchi) will get me to my stop, Higashi Fuchu, without having to change trains in around 28 to 31 minutes. If I catch the 0626 subway I will get to Shinjuku at 0637. I then walk up the two escalators, into the short underground passage and down 25 steps and onto Track 3 at 0640.
Let me digress for a minute. All subways and train stations indicate where each car door will open either by markings on ground or on wall across from where you stand. You can tell if the door is for “priority seating” (handicapped, elderly, pregnant, or with infants) or regular seating. Also, markings will indicate if it is a “women only car” or “mildly airconditioned car.” You also can tell car number. One is either first or last car on all trains and subways. Some subways are as few as five cars while some trains have as many as twelve.
Back to my morning commute. I walk up to a “blue” marking on track line which indicates a non priority door. People line up two by two. So every blue mark will have two people on it followed by others behind each of these two. At around 0640 an inbound train will be arriving on Track 3. It will be packed. The windows will be steamed over from the mass of humanity. As soon as the train stops, the two of us on the blue marking will walk up to either side of the door and face inwards towards the door. All the people behind us will do the same. The doors will open on the other side as that is the way they are supposed to get off. However some, including all that want to take the shortcut in reverse, will stay on the train until they open the doors on our side. As we have formed a tunnel for them to get off, they all smoothly get off and we jump on. The preference is for the end seat by the doors. This means you only have one person crowding you and you have room for one arm to on the railing. Therefore, I always try to go to blue spots on tracks where there are no more than three people so I can get one of these prized seats.
The train will leave at 0645, make seven or eight stops and get me to Higashi Fuchu at 0713. It is then quickly down the stairs, underneath the tracks, back up the stairs, out the turnstiles and off to the office. I have around a nine minute walk to my office on Fuchu Air Base. All in all, around a one hour commute.
The return is similar. The train inbound from Higashi Fuchu in the afternoon is a local which I take for five stops to Chofu. I get off and wait five minutes for the Special Express which is only two stops to Shinjuku. I arrange to be at the last door on the last car which is the car closest to my shortcut. After the conductor finally opens the door, I race up the 25 steps and down the two escalators to catch my subway. Then it is up five escalators and one flight of stairs (many stations have up escalators but not as many down escalators) and a five minute walk back to apartment.
All in all, around a one hour commute each way.
Now some impressions about riding the trains and subways.
The stations and the trains and subways themselves are covered with advertising. As I can’t read most of it; I can’t pass along any deals. However, unlike in the US, the trains and subways are profitable in Japan; I think the advertising is a large part of that.
Many people sleep on the subways and trains; I wonder how many miss their stops. Also, many just close their eyes as the Japanese value privacy and don’t seem to like to make eye contact. I have seen some women apply all their makeup while riding the trains. One day, this 20-something woman curled her eyelashes, applied eye liner, mascara, powder, lip liner, and lipstick all while standing on a speeding train with her bag propped up against the train door with one knee.
You see plenty of school children by themselves on trains and subways each day. Some are as young as five. One day, there was this girl that didn’t even look five alone on the train as I got on; she was asleep. By the time I got off five stations later, she was awake; I was wondering if she had missed her station. The real young kids have matching backpacks that seem bigger than they are. The older ones have more individuality in bags and backpacks. With winter having arrived, I am surprised that some of the girl’s school uniforms have shorter skirts than were ever allowed while I was in school.
There are vending machines everywhere in Tokyo, including the subway and train stations. These vending machines sell cold drinks and hot drinks. Additional machines even sell ice cream. Many subway stations and most train stations also have little shopettes that sell newspapers, magazines, drinks, and snacks. Even with all of this food and drink available right on the tracks, there is not any trash on the trains or subways themselves. Although I have seen many “sip” beverages on the train, I have only twice seen people eating a meal on the trains.
The major train stations (e.g., Shinjuku, Tokyo, Shibuya, and others) are cities unto themselves. The choices for food, drink, and shopping are extraordinary. On our list for sights to show visitors are Shinjuku and Shibuya stations along with the surrounding areas. We promise not to lead our guests into the crowd and then hide. Still, these are not to miss sights.
As you can tell, I have been fascinated by the trains and subways. Eventually the fascination will wear off and I will take a book, newspaper, or magazine onto the trains to while away my time instead of people watching and trying to read the advertising.
More later….
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Judi
non-member comment
I'm Not Surprised
Marc, You have always been able to find your way around---I'm not surprised at how well you do it! Glad you are having fun; don't give up on the people-watching though. That's one of the best ways to pass the time.