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Published: November 25th 2012
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Day 8
We had an even earlier start to the day, as we needed to set off to catch a ferry to the next island. Breakfast was on the top floor of the hotel, which they had open early for us. It was even more Japanese than usual, and we find the concept of a tray and plastic plate a little odd. We managed some toast and fruit, but there was no yogurt, and the egg that I was going to try turned out to be raw rather than hard boiled.
We met in the lobby, and set out for the ferry. On the way, we went through countless tunnels - all of which have a name - and through mountainous regions and again, the autumn colours were outstanding.
We were on time for the ferry, which when it arrived, opened up its nose to let off the cars. It was a very small car ferry, and the crossing was only 70 minutes. Once off at the other side, we had a 2 hour journey to the Buddhist temple we were going to see. It forms part off a pilgrimage route totalling 88temples, and this was number 51
on the list. According to the guide book, the temple had spent its excess funds on ever more elaborate items within the complex, and true to form, Ishite-ji temple won the prize for the most unsusal Buddhist temple we had ever visited - and we've seen a few. Nowhere else have the statues been dressed in woolly knitted hats, and had babies bibs on them. There must have been well over 100 small statues dotted around, and it certainly was an odd sight. When we asked the Guide, he said it was because the neighbourhood were praying for the children, so they were dressed like babies! The temple itself wasn't particularly spectacular, but the entrance gate Nio-mon built in 1318 was good. Strapped to it was two giant straw sandals, with some normal sized ones left by pilgrims that have had their leg and feet ailments cured.
We saw some of the pilgrims that were on the 88 temple route, identifyable by the white tabards they were wearing covered in stamps which they get at each of the temples. It does seem to be something that the Japanese are fond of, stamps, each of the tourist destinations we have
been to have had a stamp point for people to collect an image of the visited spot.
Behind the main temple was a tunnel which our guide encouraged us to visit. Inside it, all the way up the middle of the tunnel, where the bizarre dressed statues, and every so on there would be a niche containing some of the most unusual representations of a god we had every seen. Without wanting to cause offence to the Buddhist religion, it looked a bit like a junk shop of statues that they had run out of places to put out, so they had moved them to a tunnel instead. The guidebook had suggested that the route would be lit as we went with fairy lights, but the batteries must have gone in the sensors, because the equipment was hanging there, but we weren't treated to this sight.
After visiting the temple, it was a quick 10 minute hop to the lunch stop. Our guide had announced earlier that lunch would be sashimi - raw fish - and there was something of a peasants revolt, where the majority of the group asked if there was a meat alternative we could
have. Lim rang and enquired, promising nothing, but we were in luck, and hanbaga was on the menu. When we arrived, we assumed that it would be a meal where we had to sit on the floor, however the seating was deceiving, and there was actually a sunken part so we could sit properly and eat. Lunch was served and indeed there was a meat element, like a hamburger with a sauce that was excellent, and a poached egg. Now eating a poached egg with chopsticks was a challenge too far, and we had to admit defeat and ask for a spoon. Just in case we were missing the fish, there were a few strips of sashimi, just to keep our hand in. It was certainly a welcome change, and i think everyone enjoyed it.
Our schedule was extremely tight, and we had a long drive to the Oboke Gorge, at least 2 hours. Looking at the time we were leaving the restaurant, it was going to be a close run thing as to whether we would make it before we lost the light, however the driver certainly didn't hang around, and we just made the last boat. On
the way, the weather meant that the light was highlighting the colours of the trees in all their autumn glory, and the gorge sides were ablaze with oranges, reds and yellows against a backdrop of the green pine trees. It was truly very beautiful although a bit a shame that our schedule was so tight we didn't have opportunity to stop for photos so had to make do taking them on route from out of the bus window.
It was cold as we made our way into the bottom of the gorge to the boat, and we were keen to get out on the water to get the last of the light. However, before we could get in, we had to take off our shoes, and then don a lifejacket - a little extreme. There were no seats in the boat, and everyone had to kneel/sit down, as they were trying to fit more onto the boat, it made it cosy. We managed to get a few shots, before the light faded completely. You could appreciate from here just how close the road runs to the edge of the gorge, and the ongoing works that they are having to
do to keep the road and rail links open due to rockfall.
Once we had down up river for a short distance, the boat turned round and went back against the rapids. By the time we had made our way backup the steps from the bottom of the gorge to the coach, it was almost dark. The hotel was a short distance away, but we couldn't tell whether we were close to the gorge edge or not as it was so dark.
The hotel had another Onsen, and once again we were on the Japanese sleeping arrangements again. With dinner set for less than an hour from arrival, we didn't really have much time to do anything other than change into our yutaka for dinner. When we arrived at dinner, we were surprised to see that it was laid out on a table with proper chairs, rather than on the floor- not that anyone was complaining. There was a menu, and some of the courses were already set out for us. Throughout the evening, they just kept on bring out more food, and by the time dessert arrived 10 courses later, we could barely fit in the apple
pear slices.
Once dinner had digested, to the Onsen we went. Both floors of baths had an adjoining outdoor area, and whilst i thought the previous nights had been nicer, Russ thought that this was the better of the two. A couple of beers later, and it was time ot retire for the night as it was another early start in the morning.
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