Matsumoto

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Catching an early morning train from Takayama, we arrived in Matsumoto early afternoon.

Our experience of Japanese rail thus far has been overwhelmingly positive. Although the rail pass, only available to foreign tourists and must be purchased outside of Japan, initially seems expensive, it is actually great value even if you only makes few long journeys, and it's a great way to travel. The reputation certainly holds true; the trains are comfortable, clean and never, ever late.



We have used the Japan Rail offices to reserve seats on the trains, occasionally doing this a few days in advance of travel, but often on the day. The staff have always spoken enough English for this to be done with ease. We were warned that navigating through train stations would be a challenge, but once working out that the ticket tells you a train code rather than final destination which can then be used to locate the correct platform, we have found it relatively straightforward. On the odd occasion we have found ourselves struggling, a friendly local has usually spotted our bemused faces and come to our aid!



Matsumoto is the second-largest city in the Nagano prefecture. It dates back to the 8th century and is a historic castle town, surrounded by snow-capped mountains as far as the eye can see. Our hotel, located several minutes walk from the train station, was a western-style business hotel. What it lacked in character, it made up for by having a very comfortable bed which we were glad of after a couple of bad nights sleep!



After checking-in, we wandered in the direction of the old town. Our first stop was the Nakamachi district, where Edo-period buildings converted in to a variety of enticing eateries and shops line the banks of the Metoba-gawa. After a leisurely lunch we headed to Matsumoto Castle, the city's star attraction.



Known as a "hirajiro" as it is situation on a plain rather than high ground, the castle dates back to the 16th century when it was constructed during a period of civil war in the Eisho Era. Given the serene beauty of the castle, complete with a moon-viewing turret, striking black exterior, a moat brimming with carp and spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, it's hard to imagine this being build purely for war. Exploring the castles interior, however, tells a different story, with platforms for throwing stones at the enemy, hundreds of narrow windows to fire through and an impressive display of weaponry. It's worth climbing up the many steep stone stairs to get to the top floor of the castle, taking a few minutes at the top to admire the view as you get your breath back, and marvel at how on earth the samurai's with their heavy armour, would have done the same.



A trip back to the castle at night is definitely worthwhile. Surprisingly, given that it was a beautiful evening, the area was almost deserted. We spent time taking some photos as the sun set, with the castle reflecting in the water, which was perfectly still aside for the ripples created by koi leaping out the water to catch their evening meal.

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