Nagano via Niigata and great udon in Karuizawa

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This is written on a shinkansen away from Nagano (we’ll get there eventually) back to Niigata where I transited to get to Nagano. With a rail pass it is usually quicker to get 2 shinkansens – apart from the fact that there is likely only 2 direct (slow) trains a day anyway.

Last post was in Akita I think. Not all that much there to see as the old castle has long gone. There was also a bit of rain about the day I left which surprised me so had to return to get my spray jacket. The only “sight” I saw was an old red brick bank building built in 1912 which has survived earthquakes etc. Apart from a couple of timber paneled VIP rooms what was of more interest was an exhibition of a local craftsman who did some very interesting metalwork combining various techniques. They had a mockup of his workshop etc. There were also in the back modern extension of the building some quite fine woodblock style prints by a self-taught artist. So it was very well worth visiting – once again thank you to the Rough Guide – the 1999 version I am carrying in book form. It always has the best tips on what really matters.

I got the train from there to a little place called Tsuruoka. The main purpose of this was hopefully to visit the mountain area around Dewa-sanzan, an old volcano and its surrounding Shinto pilgrimage area. This did really require a car, rather than relying on dodgy infrequent buses. One of the very few places I would consider this. Unfortunately by the time I checked in at the hotel and fluffed about and found a car rental place the cars were all gone. Was prepared to consider staying another night and trying again the next day but the rainy weather continued the next day with no sunshine so gave it away. Ate at the hotel which was quite OK. My room was right facing the rail tracks and I was not that keen on hourly trains and announcements but the window seal was quite good and heard nothing.

The next day I got the train down the coast to Niigata. The coastal scenery was somewhat wild and there are only small settlements along the way. The general time plan was to get the shinkansen from Niigata, go down the line an hour or so then switch to the Nagano shinkansen and stay in Nagano for 2 nights. Then come back the same way (which I am doing while typing this) not just to get max. value out of the rail pass (there is that) but also so that when I get back to Niigata there is a better chance of getting some accommodation over on Sado Island off Niigata. By then it will be Sunday-Monday so hopefully the weekend rush will have subsided. This will require some local assistance in Niigata as there seem very few places on Sado on usual booking resources like Agoda etc – and if there are, they are miles away from the port city of Ryutso. So a car might be the story there as apparently the distance right around the island can be 250km. A bus tour would do it, depending of course on availability – weekends might be doable but a little doubtful on Mondays for example.

Meanwhile back in Nagano had booked a hotel for 2 nights. It was more or less across the road from the station but was relatively invisible to me at least. The reason – it started on floor 5 of an otherwise anonymous building, there was no signage (in English) hanging on the side of the building. The only indication where it was was on the name on the street awning – and that I only saw from the other side of the road when I was really tearing my hair out. One end (the one not facing the station) had the large Sun Route corporate symbol – but only if you already know it! I think it might have been the only non-smoking available but it was a twin – and as a result beds occupied most of floor space and nowhere to really lay my bag down – other than in the foyer entry which was annoying.

Decided as there was not much to do in Nagano per se to take a short trip (30mins) on the shinkansen back down the line to the resort town of Karuizawa. It was close to some frozen lava flows from a massive volcanic eruption in 1780’s or so – but getting there would have required a bus etc and it was too latish in the day. So just settled on a likely stroll to the old town part. I should have noted the fog on the way thru – but it was certainly very misty when I got there as no doubt a pic will show. The main drag so to speak was full of resort type shops and Italian restaurants. Have not had to stoop to that level of familiarity yet, although the odd Spanish one has caught my eye. Anyway I walked up the relatively deserted main street – the fog was obviously a killer for business as no-one about. I had gone about as far as I wanted to and found the Old Main Street (shops now all closed, but despite the name full of teenage tack like Takeshita-dori in Harajuku apparently). There detoured up a side street that had restaurant-y type signs out. And that there is where I made my great (food) discovery.

I was outside this place and the pics on the menu looked doable – very small but 3 women inside eating at the curved bar. Then it started to really rain so decided this would be it. Unbelievably the shaved head chef guy spoke more than enough English so he was able to tell me what he had. Although soba (buckwheat) noodles are general in the Nagano area he only did udon. So an udon soup with a shoyu (rather than miso) base was chosen with duck in it. This was 2 slices of smoked duck I think but also a (duck?) meat ball, lovely young beetroot leaves and other greens and those thread style mushrooms. It was the best udon soup I think I have ever had. I asked for a sake and as it was wet weather – but not really cold – had it warmed up. The three 50+ ladies who were already there were onto their second bottle of Japanese wine. Then one of them wanted a picture with me for whatever reason so she took some drunken efforts. Then I did a couple myself with my new instant best friend (one of her friends apologized, sorry, sorry she is a little drunk) but it was amusing enough. So just goes to show you can sometimes you can just fall upon a place by circumstance and get some superb food – and the translation to make it work. After I left the restaurant I happened to find an abandoned umbrella on the ground – which very much came in handy as the rain really came down at times and it was a kilometer or so to the station for my return shinkansen trip. Maybe would not otherwise recommend Karuizawa – but that udon place – definitely! And I do not even know the name.

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Photos

Tsuruoka barsigns
take Miss Garbo out for a rough night and Hope??

Tsuruoka cat's cafe?
or maybe not....

Tsuroka police poster
are the yakusa the baddies?

the Karuizawa udon master
and his tiny place (seats 9 max.?)