More Life in Japan: Sakura, Bunraku, and the Great Buddha

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So once again I've run into a pretty busy week. So naturally, as a solution to this, I'm ignoring all my schoolwork and writing in my blog. Let's face it, it's been a while and I owe this to my readers : P. Also, I hope this blog will include more about my day to day life as well as different places I've gone since I think I might ignore that in other blogs.. so here we begin:

The week after Hiroshima, as far as I can remember, was pretty regular. I went to school, hung out with my friends, probably didn't study, and probably still aced my tests. I've decided that Japanese isn't too difficult a language to learn. Maybe I'm crazy but it's coming a lot easier than Spanish does. There's obvious reasons for this though if I think about it. 1) I'm living in Japan, no wonder learning the language comes easily I can't really get away from it, and 2) I'm better at learning foreign languages now because I did all the stupid things like cramming when I was learning Spanish. Still though, I think its remarkable how much I learn here. It's hard to focus on classes though when all I ever want to do is go out and see stuff. I think it's remarkable how often I want to see the sights here and how little I feel the same back home. One thing being abroad is teaching me is that I need to appreciate the areas around me. One of the first things I want to do when I go home is visit the mountains..

But moving on, the first weekend back was the quickest party I have ever gone too. Yeah sure, lots of people came, but fifteen minutes after the party started the landlady came over and threatened to kick the hosts back to the seminar house if everyone didn't leave. Buzz kill? maybe. Everyone went to the park to drink instead. We hung around for a while but left when the cops came. No one of course got in trouble though. Apparently there's a law in Japan that the police can't arrest more than six people in a group at the same time. I don't quite understand why but it seems like a bad policy. What if a brawl breaks out? How do you stop it?

The next day I went to Kyoto to Hanami, which is to looking at flowers (in Japanese hana means flower and mi is short for miru which is to watch). Flower watching is kind of a ritual here, every year when the cherry blossoms (Sakura) come out, Japanese people sit under the trees and they picnic and drink. It's a huge thing and everyone does it. Usually the youngest member of a group has to go early and claim a spot by staying there all day while everyone else gets off work or school or whatever. This person usually has drinks a lot of sake while they're waiting for everyone else is quite toasty by the time everyone else arrives. Obviously its a completely social event grounded in the Japanese appreciation of all things beautiful. Anyway, to start our day off we went to the Philosopher's Walk which is named after Japanese philosopher Kitaro Nishida who used to walk the path to meditate. It was beautiful but not as beautiful as I expected it to be. There were lots of people there too which may have affected my perception. Nevertheless I had read a lot about it and I'm glad I went. After this we went to Demachiyanagi by the river and managed to find ourselves a Sakura tree to sit under. Since it was Kieran, Katie and Jonna that I was with the conversation was intelligent and enjoyable. It eventually got a little cold though and we all decided to head back and make it an easy night.

The next day I went to church with my friend Jenn. It was Palm Sunday then and was a nice little service although the aesthetics were rather bland compared to what I'm used to. The people were very nice and the service was familiar even though the mass was conducted in Japanese. Jenn told me that she really liked going because the mass was something that was consistent in her life wherever she was. I thought that was a real interesting perspective on it: that wherever you go and whoever you are, there's that service which will always be the same. Well.. almost, the mass was conducted in Japanese but Jenn had a 'Mass For Children' book that the church had given her so we were able to follow along well enough. The meaning is the same. I was real glad I went.. After this, Jenn and I went to Starbucks and had some coffee, another international consistency I suppose, and then we just took it easy together all day.

This next week, as weeks often do, went by fairly quickly until the weekend. Classes, as always, are going well and I think I have an A in mostly everything. I feel like I'm learning so much here even though the classes are easy. I think part of that is because I'm so used to being so busy back home and here the only responsibility I have is my schoolwork. It's nice not having to worry about rehearsals and the rent.

I joined the Latin Dancing Club which meets every Monday and Thursday and is taught by Natalia, Filipe, and Juan-David (The Columbians) who do an excellent job. At this point I can do Merengue and Latin Pop, and I'm learning to Salsa right now. It's terribly fun although sometimes a little difficult for someone like myself with two left feet and no hips. Still, I feel like I'm picking it up well enough and I'm really proud of myself. There are maybe 15-20 people in the class and everyone is very nice. I really enjoy it and it's nice to learn how do real dances. I think it's amazing how much Latin culture I'm picking up here. I practice my Spanish quite often with friends but it's still pretty difficult to understand them. Native speakers talk very very fast but on the bright side it helps me be more conscience of how quickly I speak when talking to my foreign friends here.

Sometime around this time I also wrote an essay on the atomic bomb and whether I would have authorized the drop in 1945. I've not turned it in yet but it was personally difficult to write because I have to put myself in a position where I'm not looking back with the 20/20 eyesight and moral superiority that I now can. I've also recently written an essay on Peacekeeping Operations and I'll be writing one soon on Democratic Peace Theory. If anyone wants a copy of these let me know I love to share the things I learn.

Another interesting development around this time is that I decided to go full immersion at my homestay, that is I try not to let my Okaasan (Host-Mother) speak English anymore. It hasn't been entirely successful since I'm still limited with my vocabulary but it's been helpful. The difficulty is that when I return to my homestay it's often the end of the day I'm mentally drained. It takes lots of focus to keep picking up new things once I go home. Also, for my Okaasan's benefit, Wednesdays are designated for English so my she can learn as well. I can finally communicate with my Oneesan (Host-Sister) too which is nice. She doesn't speak any English at all so in the beginning it was pretty difficult but it's not so akward when I come home and its just her. We can get the basics done. Turns out she's a black belt too .. kinda scary. : ) I guess I won't mess with her. She's real nice though and buys me chocolate fairly often (which is great)

That weekend I was pretty excited because I finally stopped being physically lazy and played some soccer. I played with the Columbians, a couple guys from Sweden, and a few others (I can't remember exactly but it was just a small sided scrimmage). It was great to play again. That night we went to the bowling alley and did just that, bowled. I did pretty poorly compared to how I usually do. We stayed out all night because can't go home until the 5:00 trains start and we wouldn't just leave her stranded : ). We bowled until maybe 2:00 or 3:00 and then went to a nearby park and hung out under the Cherry Blossoms. I almost lost my camera but Garrett grabbed it. Sometime during the course of the night also I was invited to play in a soccer tournament the the next day which I was really excited about but upon awakening at 7:30 I thought better of the decision since I still couldn't walk straight.

That afternoon (Saturday afternoon, April 15 for anyone keeping track), Jenn and I went to Osaka to see the National Bunraku Theatre to see a performance. Bunraku is a traditional form puppet theatre and the style originated in Osaka so it was really amazing to see a form of traditional Japanese theatre performed where it was founded. The theatre itself is well known and the puppeteers there are some of the best. The show was great. It started with a chant and a musical performance called Kotobuki Hashiradate Manzai which is 'a dance evoking the Manzai performers who would go from door to door at New Years, doing celebratory songs and dances." After this was Hiragana Seisuiki which is the story of a Higushi Jiro Kanemitsu who is a great warrior who poses as a boatman as he hopes to have revenge on rival branches of his clan. During his masquerade he finds himself having to protect the son of his lord through the sacrifice of his newly adopted son. After this was Kanjincho which is actually a famous play from the Kabuki theatre style adopted for Bunraki. This was my favorite. It is about a shogun, Yoritomo, who has fallen out of favor with his brother, Yoshitsune, who now has the power in the country. They are trying to escape by posing as mountain priests collecting money for the rebuilding of a temple but run into a barrier put into place by Yoritomo's brother where they are saved by an elaborate improvised performance by their leader and guide, the warrior-priest Benkei. The leader of the soldiers at this barrier sees through the performance but is so impressed by Benkei's performance that he lets them pass. I highly recommend this play especially to anyone who has a chance to see it.

For understanding the stories, we had to use audio guides to understand though but they were well coordinated with the script and did not interfere greatly with the experience of listening to the highly animated narration and script in Japanese. The puppets themselves were very elaborate and well designed. Each major puppet is operated by three puppeteers who wear all black and cover their entire bodies. Only the face of the most experienced puppeteer is visible and this is done to show respect for their advanced skills (Bunraku takes years upon years to master). The most experienced puppeteer operates the right hand and the facial expressions of the puppet and the other two puppeteers operate the left hand and the legs respectively. Smaller puppets are less animated and are operated by one fully covered puppeteer. The puppeteers did not perform the dialogue but this was done by a chanter who sits side stage and is accompanied by a shimasen which is a type of plucky three stringed Japanese lute. The chanter deserves as much recognition as the puppeteers because generally there is only one chanter and he serves as the narrator and as the voices of all the different characters. He is very skilled and plays the part of men and women with all of their emotions bringing even more life and character to the puppets. The shimasen player also deserves recognition for capturing the chanter's tone and conveying the feelings of the puppets through his music. It was very impressive. Furthermore, the stage was also well designed and the set changes were very well changed and did not slow the plays at all, happening almost instantaneously within the individual plays themselves. The performances were a bit pricey for college students but well worth it and I recommend visiting a performance to anyone who spends any considerable amount of time around Osaka.

After this Jenn and I got some ramen at a little ramen shop which was cheap and delicious, (and rice was only fifty yen a bowl!) and then headed home because we were both really tired. Jenn had gone to a club the night before with some Japanese friends and I of course had been out under the Sakura.

The next morning was Easter Sunday and I went to church again with Jenn. The service was a little more difficult to understand this time because I had to come late and Jenn and I didn't sit next to each other so I couldn't take advantage of her amazing book. We got easter eggs on the way out and then spend a few hours in Kyoto (with eggs in our pockets) at the Nijo Castle. Jenn had to go there for an art project and I went along to keep her company but it was definently nice and worth seeing. We admired the architecture which was very nice and famous Kano artwork on the sliding screens in the castle (this was what Jenn needed to see for her class). The grounds also were very beautiful and there were still some very beautiful Sakura in the gardens. This being done I've seen two castles in Japan, Osaka-Jo and Nijo; I liked the first best. I still need to go to Himeji though and see Himeji Castle which I've heard is very impressive.


After this I met some classmates to work on a skit for Japanese class and then went home to catch up on my homework.

The next week was just a little interesting. Monday I learned some news back home that bothered me a bit and I ended up being in an off-mood until for a few days until I forced myself out of it. It was a little difficult though because on Tuesday I had two quizzes and a big test. I ended up doing quite well but it was forced and I had no desire to do the work for them.

By Thursday I had mostly snapped out of my mood swing and because April 20th is a special holiday for some people I know we went out to the Pig and Whistle which is an English pub in Kyoto and it was really nice. We walked in and the atmosphere was great and there was a soccer game playing. I was hooked. I also got a full plate of fish and chips for eight bucks and it was delicious. Drinks were a bit expensive though and I was covering a friend that night cause he was going through some stuff back home too and needed cheering so I ended up spending more money than I would have liked. It was a nice night though regardless. I also got a special present from a friend that then too and it really made my night : ) (Thank You)

The next night, Friday, I decided to take the night in because I felt like Thursday night had been enough and I had been looking forward to a personal day. I almost got pulled into having a couple drinks at a nearby bar with a couple friends from the Netherlands but decided against it in favor of sitting in my room, watching dvds and eating the Japanese equivalent of Peppermint Patties (After Eight). It was really nice to have time of my own, a personal day if you will, and I took full advantage of it.

The next day Dr. Agola, my International Business teacher, had organized a BBQ down by the river and so of course I attended. We threw frisbees, ate steak (exciting), and generally had a good time. The park closed at four though which is kind of early but that's just how they do things here I suppose. After this Katie and I met up for a drink, then I went home for dinner before I re-joined Katie and Jonna at our favorite izakaya. Our friends Evan and Hikari joined us too and we like them a lot and were glad they came. Evan is teaching English here now but he is returning to Canada soon. Hikari is his girlfriend and we all love her because she's very sweet. After the izakaya we went bowling again (it's getting to be a trend but it stays open all night and its only 200 Yen a game) and then we went karaokeing where Katie actually sang. (It's true I have a video tape!)

The next morning Garrett and I met up with Mie and Sari who are a two Japanese girls from my classes and we all went to Nara together to sight-see (well more for Garrett and I, Sari and Mie live there). We went to five-story pagoda at Kofukuji Temple, the Giant Buddha at Todaiji Temple, and then to the Isuien Garden. We had lots of fun and Rie and Sari are very nice! We also had lunch at a delicious little restaurant near the train station called the Baby Face Cafe where I finally encountered a Japanese meal that was difficult to finish. I guess the reason for that was that the meal I ordered was meant for three people but I thought I could handle it on my own (and I did!). The name of my dish was called obu rice and I ate mine with bacon on top. It was basically just a giant omelette filled with lots of rice but it was delicious and I want to go back.

So... that's the short of it since last time. As always, more happened but I can't or maybe shouldn't remember everything. For some reflections though, I've decided do like Japan. I swung around for a while but I'm kind of settled in now. (It's really expensive though!) The people are nice but kind of conservative and the history is amazing. The temples and castles are beautiful and I love the Sakura. I'm considering coming back here to teach English after college although I might do China because that's a more useful language to learn. Still, living here I've come to appreciate the 'Far East' and its culture much more. There are still lots of problems in Asia (not so much in Japan but elsewhere) but its fascinating to learn about how the countries here are developing. The classes here, despite being easy, are really interesting so long as you take the right ones. Campbell's lectures finally got better so I'm learning a lot more about globalization and how it relates to particcularly to Asia. Dr. Scott's classes also are fascinating as usual. We're now to the point where we hear groups present every class. Two classes ago was about the rights of children and it was amazing. Today's was about corruption in East Asia. Wow. Every day I appreciate my education more. I suppose MC would be proud.

And I guess that's all. In a month i'll be home.... wild! I'm excited but I know that I'm going to miss my friends here. I've decided to focus my life more too when I get back. Not that I'm not headed in a good direction but I tend to dabble and do a little bit of everything and I think its about time I focused in a little bit on something. Being here has really interested me in Peace Studies so we'll see where that takes me. I'm closer to pursuing the life of an academic than I've ever been and I've even considered teaching at a college at some point in my future, which is something I had previously ruled out (no offense profs!). Still, my futures up in the air and I've got years to decide (No really! after graduation, I want to teach English in Asia; after that I'll take a little time home and then I want to do service work in Latin America; after that grad school where I'll finally have to make some real decisions and by then I'll know myself much better) Also, I've decided that I'm going to take a trip to Europe next summer too so I have something new and exciting to look forward to when I finally have to go back home. Can't wait!

Brian

p.s. More pictures!

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Photos

Sakura Over the Water
This canal is parallel to the Nioomon-Doori in Kyoto

Tetsugaku No Michi
This is along the 'Path of Philosophy' which is a very popular place to hanami.

More Sakura in Kyoto
The gate in the background is called a Torii and is an entrance gate to a Shinto Shrine

Bunraku Flyer
This picture shows what the Bunraku puppets look like

Bunraku
These are puppets with the puppeteers

Nio Guardian
Guarding the entrance to Todaiji Temple. This is said to be one of the finest wooden statues in all Japan, if not the world. It was quite impressive.

Daibutsu-den (Hall of the Great Buddha)
Twice a year there is a the window in the front of this building that is opened and one can see the Great Buddha's face is visible from outside of the Hall.

The Great Buddha
This is the Great Buddha housed in the Todai-ji Daibutsu-den (Hall of the Great Buddha). It is 16 meters tall and weights 437 tons. It is one of the largest bronze figures in the world, originally cast in 746.

Buddha
This Buddha was on the left side of the Great Buddha while another just like it was on the right.

Garrett Possibly Earning Enlightenment
It is said that if you can fit through this hole which is the same size as one of the Great Buddha's nostrils you are ensured of enlightenment. Garrett and I already think we're enlightened but we both went through anyway.

Me and Sari
At Isuien Garden

Me, Rie, and Garrett
She's short.. we make it worse

Isuien Garden
This garden was constructed in the Meiji Period (1867-1912).

Flowers in Isuien Garden
Why? Because they look nice. If you know what they're called please tell me.