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Published: July 30th 2009
The Grand Palace
Changing of the guardWhat do you get when you combine a few extra paid vacation days, a last-minute $200 flight, and the opportunity to try a new way of travel in a new country? The answer: a total game-changer of a weekend in one of the world’s most fascinating metropolises. While much of my four days there were spent doing the usual mix of sightseeing and nightlife-participation, it was this new phenomenon called Couchsurfing that has flipped the travel world completely upside down that made the experience better than any other travel experience I’ve had to date.
For those who don’t know, Couchsurfing, in the travel sense, is a direct reference to the term used for someone who goes from friend’s couch to friend’s couch, never seeming like he/she has a true place of their own. While the term might carry a slightly negative connotation, it was always seen as a short-term solution to a homelessness problem a good friend was having. Just moved to New York? Sure, come crash on my couch for a FEW DAYS while you look for your own place? The main point is these were trusted friends helping out in a bind. The travel-kind of Couchsurfing has taken
Old men
are EVERYWHERE! and doing...NOTHING! that idea and run with it. In this Facebook, Myspace, Linkedin decade of social and career networking with complete strangers in addition to friends, Couchsurfing was able to create itself into a service that not only connects people with major similar interests (i.e. travel, cultural exchange), but also gives those people a direct forum to go out and actually DO something about it. The purpose is to have it go both ways. Out of the same mold as Oprah’s “Pay it Forward”, Couchsurfing strives to connect people to not only surf, but also to host. After all, without one there isn’t the other. It also hits on the point that you don’t have to leave your country, or even your own house, to have a cultural exchange/travel experience.
I mention Facebook and other social networking sites because I’m not sure Couchsurfing could have existed without the rise of this philosophy. With the advent of Facebook, people now feel completely comfortable with connecting with strangers in a SAFE and RESPONSIBLE way. We offer up information about ourselves because we hope that others will do the same in return. As a result, we are shrinking the world one Facebook friend at a
Bahbeque
Beef ribs...sooooo good. time. Couchsurfing capitalizes (figuratively, I’m not sure about monetarily…yet) on this new way of thinking. Here’s how it works: After you sign up for this FREE service, you fill in a Facebook-like profile detailing your general location, interests, travel experiences, and most importantly your hosting capabilities and arrangements. You can go a step further and add friends (just like Facebook) and then get personal references from them. When it comes time to plan a trip, you do a Couchsearch for your destination, and boom, you may have hundreds of potential hosts waiting for you. Obviously, these people are not contractually obligated to take in anyone that requests their couch, so after a few looks at each other’s profiles and a few email exchanges, a hosting agreement can be made or rejected.
I booked my flight to Seoul four days before departure. While it was possible to book a hostel in that time, I was really eager to try out this new Couchsurfing thing that has been creating such a buzz in the traveler world. I was quickly accepted to surf with a 26-year-old South African guy living in Seoul teaching English. He sent me directions from the airport to his
Scene from Seoul Tower
Plus the lock charms that seal in the wishes. place, and met me on the street as I approached his place. After informing me one of his two roommates was out of town, leaving me to crash on a BED not a couch, we headed out for Korean food and drinks in the nearby international district of Seoul. Let me stop there.
Usually for travelers doing the hostel thing, you are confined to the suggestions of your Lonely Planet. The other guests are just as clueless about the place as you are. The number reason for people to travel is to learn about the local culture, and believe me; it’s easier said than done, especially when you are spending all your time with Swedes, Canadians, and other people from other places. Not that it’s bad to meet other travelers because there is a lot you can learn from them. But when you Couchsurf with a local, you are instantly thrust into the mindset of LIVING in that city. And anyone will tell you that living somewhere is a lot different than visiting.
The South African Luke had lived in Seoul for two years, knew hundreds of restaurants and bars, had hundreds of Korean and international friends, and had arranged
War Memorial and Museum
Come inside to learn about the Korean War...and shoot bad guys in the video games! dinners and parties for us all weekend. Luke was totally hooked-in to the extensive international, English-teaching scene of Seoul. He was someone I could talk to about Korea AND South Africa. His roommate was a Korean-born, American-adopted 25-year-old named Andrew. He moved to Seoul two years ago to connect with the heritage he had little exposure to while growing up in a white family in Lincoln, Nebraska. He had mostly Korean friends and avoided the international scene. He was eager to show me the “real Korea”. How many travelers can say they have been shown “the real ___” by a local?
Ok, so here’s what I learned about the “real” Korea. First of all, it’s a huge city. Like NYC/Tokyo-huge with the population pushing close to 11 million. It is oriented in a very strategic location that provides physical protection and resources and also fulfills the ying-yang statutes by the mountains to the north and the Han River to the south. Korea was a unified kingdom until (you guessed it) the Japanese took over in 1907. Most of the historical sites and buildings were destroyed either by the Japanese in a 16th century invasion, or in the devastating Korean War. Seoul is located about 150 miles from the border of North Korea, the most heavily armed border in the world. When North Korea crossed the 38th parallel in 1950, starting the Korean War, they took Seoul in three days. The city was reclaimed by UN Forces only to be recaptured by the Chinese Communist-aided North Koreans. The UN Army reclaimed it once again, and from there the two countries stalemated near the original border. North Korea and South Korea are still technically at war.
I learned this from my visit to the War Memorial and Museum. While not the best museum I’ve been to, I learned a great deal about this “Forgotten War”. I was shocked to learn that over 33,000 Americans died in battle in Korea. Just as shocking was the video game corner where little kids were playing war games with toy guns, which were so loud you could hear fake gunfire throughout the museum. And the moms and dads were proudly taking pictures! In a War Memorial/Museum! It was definitely one of the stranger things I’ve ever witnessed.
Korean people, as was told to me, are a little on the superficial side. Korea is one of the leading cosmetic surgery locations in the world. The most popular surgery is an eye procedure that alters the natural “Asian eyelid” into a double-lidded, Western-style eyelid. I was told more than half of young Korean girls have had the surgery. I found it kind of ugly to be honest. In addition, nose, chin, and boob jobs are all very common among Korean ladies. It was very clear to me that beauty, whether natural or unnatural, is the most precious form of currency in Seoul. With it come entitlement, a career, money, and a diva attitude.
Korea is just another place I’ve been to that has out-of-this-world cuisine. If you are not a fan of spicy, don’t come here. The best and most famous is Korean barbeque, which is a cheap, family style experience not to be missed. I had a little difficulty using the flat, metal chopsticks, and as a result, all of my clothes came back with bright red Kimchi stains.
Korea has risen from the ashes of the Korean War to become a major player in the developed world. As their GNP grew, they were able to position themselves on major stages to showcase to the world their resilient and beautiful country. They very successfully hosted the 1988 Summer Olympics and then brought the biggest event in the world to Asia with the 2002 World Cup of Soccer.
Now I can cross Seoul off my list, but I surely wouldn’t mind going back for a little Kimchi and nightlife. But one thing is for sure; you won’t be finding me in a hostel, but rather on some stranger’s couch.
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Uncle Johnny
non-member comment
couchsurfing
Dear David, As one who has had many people sleep on my couch over the years (American, Nepali, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Czech,etc.) I sort of know what you are talking about. Because I have known most (but not all) of these sleepers in advance, I almost qualify as a couchsurfing host! Glad you met Luke in Korea. Our Luke here in Connecticut is doing fine at 2 weeks old! Much love, Uncle Johnny