Takaragawa Onsen (https://www.takaragawa.com/english.html) was one of the highlights of our trip. We were picked up from the train station and whisked through the hills to the onsen; we got to pick our our own yukatas and slippers to wear for the duration of our stay and shown to our beautiful room overlooking the river. The baths themselves were magical, the air clean and cool and the autumn foliage gorgeous. Dinner was exquisite and they were able to accommodate with vegetarian dishes. There was sake. And when we returned to our room they'd set our futons out for us. Truly one of the nicest places I've every stayed. Of course when you're staying at the hot springs you need to take an after dinner dip to look at the stars, and an early morning swim to watch the sun rise. A lovely breakfast and then we were (sadly) on our way.
You can visit Takaragawa Onsen as a day trip from Tokyo but don't even think about it. Stay two nights in the less expensive rooms in the #1 annex from 1936, they're incredible and you won't believe your good fortune at being able to experience this most Japanese of adventures.
I'm a progressive vegetarian feminist currently residing in San Francisco and I live to travel. So far I've been around the United States and Canada; traveled briefly in Mexico and the Caribbean; done the tour of Western Europe; visited parts of South, East and Southeast Asia; and seen a bit of the Middle East and North Africa. The short list of places I'd like to go next is long. I hope those reading this blog will find themselves inspired towards their own explorations of this fascinating world.
Voyager c'est vivre!... full info