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Published: November 9th 2006
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i read recently that if you allocated one day for each of Indonesia's 12,000 islands, it would take you three years and one month to visit the entire country.
a little less ambitious at this point in my travels, i spent almost the whole month of October on just one: the lovely and picturesque bali. arguably (although i cannot personally attest for the others), bali is one of the most beautiful, charming, and idyllic, of Indonesia's islands. it's unique history, warm and inviting culture, and gorgeous landscapes create a rich island atmosphere, making it no surprise why bali has always attracted such loyal & devout attention from tourists and travelers worldwide.
my bali experience was bookended with a few days in the southern peninsular area of kuta-seminyak-legion, a main hub of commercialism and tourism. the beaches are packed with surfers and sunbathers, and the nightlife an easy-going, all-goes atmosphere with loud music spilling out of even the most unassuming of structures. millions motor up and down the narrow corridored streets on their rented mopeds, surf boards expertly secured on the side. cold beverages and cheap massages are in abundance and life is overall, pretty good. kuta is also where
the Bali bombs of October 12, 2002 happened, the most deadliest terrorism attach on Indonesia in history - killing over 200 people, mostly tourists from Australia. the Balinese have reacted with resolve and in true form of their Hindu roots, have responded with compassion and prayer instead of vengeance and retaliation. the overall tourism industry has taken a severe hit, and the local industries and families have been very infected, as tourism has been a historically strong, main economic vein. hopes are high however, and the statistics are slowly climbing back to their previous levels. i felt nothing but safe, so would recommend to anyone looking for a delightful and relaxing vacation.
moving a bit north from kuta, the coastal areas of seminyak and legion offer a slightly more upscale experience, where swanky bars and restaurants cater to a posh crowd of vacationers. the beach is lined with first class hotels, private villas, and open-air, candle lit seascapes where pulsing rhythms and a jet set crowd dressed in everything from the latest cocktail dress to their board shorts and bronzed tans, sip sun downers over world class sunsets.
stepping beyond the southern peninsula and into the rolling countryside,
entrance to local house
stone structures and a raised front entrance surround the temples and rooms inside. rice is out to dry in front. a more authentic and charming canvas of vibrant, florescent, green rice fields layer all surfaces, save the sky. small wooden or thatch buildings and stoic stone temples and structures are the two architectural styles accenting the countryside and small villages. a limitless coastline provides ample opportunities to stumble upon small, sleepy fishing villages, spend a few nights exploring the hillside, taking a swim in the ocean, snorkel, scuba or hang out with the local fisherman and families. there is not much to complain about with consistent days of brilliant sun, inspiring landscapes, good food, good company - which transform into cool nights, being lulled to sleep with the sounds of the waves and croak of the gecko's.
bali, the only hindu island of Indonesia, has a deep and colorful history of festivals, ceremonies, dance, and art. it almost seems as though there is a festival of some sort every weekend, honoring a passage of life, a symbolic point on the Balinese calendar, a seasonal offering, or marriage or funeral celebration.
i was lucky to have arrived in the town of ubud, known as the "cultural center"" of bali, right at the beginning of the Galungan Festival, celebrated every
getting ready for the festivities
picking up the neighbors before walking down to the opening ceremony. the girls are getting the finishing touches from mom! 6 months or 210 days to commemorate the triumph of good spirits over evil. i choose to stay in a quaint home stay and was generously invited to participate in the opening ceremonial weekend. not an unusual offer from what i would discover is a very inclusive and open culture.
that evening i joined my new friend kadek and the rest of the town in the opening celebrations. kadek and i wore traditional Balinese clothing: colorful sarongs and delicate three quarter length sleeved lace tops that hung long over our hips. a bright colorful sash is tied around the waist to finish it all off. all of the women and girls had their hair pulled back in gorgeous silky jet black buns, accented with flower buds, and rosy checks and lips. the men and boys wore loose fitting, breathable long white tops, sarongs, sandals, and a white cloth tied around their heads.
prayer and offerings are an integral part of every day life for the Balinese, and extra care and attention are given during festival times. tall bamboo polls line the streets and entrances to temples and houses. women spend days preparing elaborate offerings of food and flowers,
to be presented in homemade platters made from the bamboo leaves.
the evening started out with a trip to the main local temple to pay our respects. upon entry we were annointed with water and then placed a nickel sized squish of wet rice on our foreheads and lower neck. the rice and water represent always having enough water to drink and food to survive. strong currents of heavily incensed air flirted with each breath you took and a rhythmic, meditative melody of drums and wind instruments created a sense of the spiritual.
the remainder of the night and much of the weekend, was spent visiting various temples all over the island and paying respects with a breif prayer ceremony and offerings. at the smaller temples or alters you can do this by yourself, with incense, water, a small offering and rice. the larger more prominent temples have a religious man or woman who leads the prayers and then administers the water from a little tin watering can (three times to your mouth and then three times over your head) and rice (again, head and neck). dancing and music filled the rest of the nights and into the
early mornings. it was a very spiritual and impactful experience, not to mention visually gorgeous with the vibrant Balinese dress and decor, and genuine Balinese spirit.
the remaining 11,999 or so of Indonesia's islands represent the largest Muslim population in the world, as well as the 4th largest populated country with roughly 300 million residents. there are a plethora of diverse and distinct places to explore. the umbrella language is bahasa indonesian, but as i've found to be the case in a lot of places across the world - most people are at least bi-lingual, if not tri, quad, etc... Indonesia alone has over 300 local languages and dialects.
i did take a short week trip over to the neighboring island of lombok, and spent a few relaxing, pure vacation days on the Gilli islands. the month long fasting period of Ramadan was just ending as i was leaving and everyone was making trips back to their home villages to celebrate. the last few nights preceding the breaking of the fast celebrations seemed to be spent in prayer - with the imam or muezzin chanting prayers through a speaker system well into the night and early morning. the
actual end day is very much like Christmas in the west - all stores are closed and people spend much of the morning at the mosque in prayer before starting the festivities with tons of food and family gatherings.
the end of the month was capped off with a fun weekend with good friends back in seminyak. we put the "R" in r&r, indulged in scrumptious culinary concoctions, sampled a range of bali spa services, kept the poolside baristas busy and mingled a bit with the "who's who" of beach side luxury at various sunset and evening venues. it was the perfect ending to an Asian adventure!
i had a few more days to wrap up bali, buy a few last sarongs, squeeze in a few more massages, and then it was a quick flight back to singapore and onto the Land Down Under!
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lauriane
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what an experience!
Hello dear Amy! First of all, it is so nice to hear from you. Everytime I read your blog, I feel like I'm part of the experience, of your wonderful trip. I envy you so much you can't imagine...And I just came back from my second trip to Thailand. I spent my 10 day holiday in Chiang Mai, training for Muay Thai... So you're heading to Australia...Well, I hope you enjoy it as much as you enjoyed Asia...Do you know a little better what you will do once you come back from your trip? Anyway, take care! and keep on writing, it's a delight for me, really. And probably for many other people! Keep in touch, your French friend, Lauriane...