overnight in medewi


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April 27th 2007
Published: April 27th 2007
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Just sitting here in our new hotel. After we talked to you guys we jumped in this van that took us here, it was about a 2 hour drive, and these roards are crazy, like the road is about as wide as one lane on a highway is, but there would be like a truck in front of us, and on a blind corner we would just pass him and while doing that people on scooters would be passing us, haha. and we're not talking one guy on a scooter here, this is the family vehicle, we saw one scooter with 5 people on it, a mom and dad, 2 small girls on the back beind, kind of on eacothers lap, then a little baby sitting on the dad's lap, crzy shit, and they're passing on blind corners just blasting thei horn in case ppl are coming, like dude, you crash, there goes your hole family! After making it here we went to the main hotel, but it was going to be 90,000 a night for 2 beds, like 1o bucks no way, then some guy from a stand down the way "Putu" said he has a hotel room for 50,000, that sounded more our speed so we went with him. the room is pretty ghetto, no toilet seat or paper, the shower is like a tiled box with a hose that has a shower head on it. we realized we're in real indonesia now. Putu is a pretty cool guy,kinda the local jack of all trades. He owns a little dng reair/store/hotel fon desk/ pool hall. we walked down to check out the surf and holy shit, Jesse wasn't kidding about big swell today, the waves were like 6-7 foot, not realy any barrel, but hge and powerful, this beach is "cobblestone", so just big round rocks and apparently that's what the bottom is too, yikes. good thing we got reef shoes! so we went back and checked out the small village up the road, which is about 5 stores and like 2 or 3 warungs (eatery). after we went back and laid down for a bit and then decided after upacking Andy's boardbag to hit up the surf, we tried to figure out how to get out there, and were about to walk out on the rocks (super sketchy) when we decided to ask some other guys where to paddle out, they pointed out that if you walk down the beach a bit there's a retaining wall that has spray painted on it - "pedle", that's where you paddle out, haha, super sketched!we looked at the channel you paddle out on for a while and decided itwas way to big right now to have our first session, and to learn how to paddle this channel. we went back to the room and chilled for the night, hoping tomarrow is alot more mellow! before bed we went down to pudu's shop hut thing and got some waters and hung out with all the boys there, it was pretty fun, they were laying a wierd combination of cards and pool an seemed to be putting money on it too. this one guy named chip chip was a pretty big balinese guy, and he seemed to be winning and would dance to whatever song was on the radio whenever he won, songs like "my humps" for example, hehe. we hung out there for like 20 minutes and then went back to our room and watched an episode of my name is earl on andy's laptop. I fell aslee off and on like 5 minutes in.

April 28/07
I slept like a rock, until about 4 AM when one of the prolly 50 roosters wandering around this town started crowing every 2 minutes, I put in earplugs, but that couldn't drown out ths guy. I got out of bed around 7 and went down to check out the surf. woo, still pretty big mostly around 6 ft, but definatly some waves that were over 8 ft....scary! I watched some japanese guys paddle out the channel and they filled me in that there was a ripide that basically pulls you to the right spot. I went and got Andy and we got ready to head out. It was big, but the waves looked pretty mellow, just like gigantic rollers (check my facebook for some pics). We walked to the beach, about a 3 minute walk. There was a photogropher set up with a telephoto lenson the beach, good sign this isn't a normal size day! we went over to the paddle out spot, there was a guy and girl paddling out, so we kinda followed them, not too bad, we waited for between sets and paddled our butts off to the good spot, and got there just dead tired. we rested for a while, I tried to paddle of a couple waves and got worked alot, I popped up on about 2 o 3 but just washed over cause I wasn't close enough to the wash. After a while of this Andy drifted deeper and I got washed in cause I kept getting worked by waves. pretty scary when a wave tosses you upside down and you have no idea how deep it is, and you get held under for a good 5-10 seconds! I had lost sight of andy after a while, and finally drifted into a good spot, after a couple big washes washed over me andy appeared, we were both super tired. I had one wave that i tried for, prolly 5 or 6 ft, I got up on it and rode down the face for about 3 seconds, going faster than I ever have on a surf board when I reached the bottom and should have bottom turned up the wave I just got eaten by the wash and taken down hard. I we both decided to just paddle in with our tails between our legs. We got in and scampered over the rocks as waves knockus around while trying to pick our step, broken ankle much? We walked back to the hotel and decided this spot was a bit out of our league and the combination of it being a super big swell (one of the biggest swells Jesse has ever seen in Indo) and a spot we're not ready for we decided to head back to kuta. We got Putu to call someone to bring us back and we settled up for the hotel. back in kuta now enjoying the good hotel room, it almost feels like returning home. We really missed the pool and having a toilet seat! you know, little stuff like that.

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