Bali - Island of the Gods

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So I’ve not blogged during this trip so far (nor for the few before this.. lazy me =/).. but last night I experienced something so extraordinary and strange to me that I want to record it for future reference and for anyone who wants to read it.

Some background information – so I’m doing some research for university within a Villa Management company in Bali. I arrived at the beginning of June and will finish my research mid-August. At the point of writing this I have been here around 5 weeks – I’d say I’m mostly familiar with the parts of Balinese culture you encounter day to day. I understand the offerings and temples you see everywhere – I have even taken part in ceremony twice myself having borrowed Balinese Kebaya of a colleagues wife.

So one evening after indulging in tuna penes and arak with the guys that work in front of house roles within the company, they invite me to join them to go to a temple for ceremony. Although I’m not Hindu, I enjoy the spirituality within the ceremony and the ritual itself. As I’ve told my closest Balinese friend here – you pray to your God and I’ll pray to mine. A couple of hours later we arrive at someone’s house – not technically a temple at all. However this house temple is supposed to be important/special somehow and once a month they invite people in to partake in ceremony.

I’m kneeling down with my colleagues, completing the now familiar ritual by putting rice on my forehead and chest, when one of our friends starts shaking and grunting. The owners of the house stand up immediately and go to bring back the black and white checkered fabric that you see everywhere within the religion – mainly the small umbrellas and wrapped around the base of the temples. They tie to strips of the material around each of my friends arms and a more colourful one around his neck. When he stands, it is quite apparent to me that he is not himself. He has been possessed by the spirit of God, and is handed several sticks of lit incense to hold.

I must admit this is the part of the night I found most uncomfortable. As I reflect on the situation, I may have reacted differently had it not been someone I know and like so much. The noises and demeanour adopted by him once possessed made me uncomfortable – and yes I will openly admit that I got a bit overwhelmed and cried and asked to leave the room. We only left and sat outside the room, which was all glass anyway, so we could still witness everything.

I think throughout the duration of the event 6 people were possessed, each acting differently. One woman – and the one that amused me most – just walked around very sultry, chain smoking cigarettes (I definitely have a theory she wasn’t possessed and just wanted to smoke – something I haven’t seen many women here openly doing). Another rather large gentleman would lean down over something burning, inhale the smoke then lean up and give a small speech and then repeat the process.

Everyone who was possessed got wrapped in either a white sheet of fabric around their waist or two checkered strips around each arm. The possessed people seemed to be able to impart their state onto other people – I watched my friend throw a metaphorical ball of energy at a woman, who then turned into the one chain smoking. Then she hit another woman on the forehead with the bottom of her palm and the hit woman screamed out in pain and started dancing.

I must admit I was scared someone may touch me and I may become possessed – but I was reassured only certain people are born with the ability to channel the Gods this way.

There was a cleansing ceremony conducted by my possessed friends. Part of it included opening a young coconut in order to drink it and extinguishing incense into it before drinking it. More likely to make you ill than cleansed in my western opinion – but then what do I know.



One of scariest and most unique experiences of my trip so far and one not to be forgotten in a hurry.

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