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Published: February 4th 2017
It was a 7:30am start from Delhi to catch our flight to Cochin. Before leaving, I had the healthiest of breakfasts, a plate of chips with tomato sauce. ? The diet would start tomorrow, I told myself! It was a slick process through the airport for me, John and Joan. So slick, I actually did some shopping at Marks and Spencer of all places and the pharmacy for some serious meds to get rid of this chesty cough. All sorted, we boarded our flight with 'Vistara'. A newish airline that had only been running for about two years. This flight odd in the fact that we had two legs. Our first to Mumbai, the second to Cochin. When we landed in Mumbai, some passengers got off, we stayed put, the cleaning crew whizzed through the cabin and new passengers joined us. It was like we were on a bus or train just making a routine pick up. It was most bizarre but apparently quite common here. Mumbai from the air, appeared to be an area of two halfs, slums and high rises. It was cool to see and looked like an interesting destination to visit. Maybe next time? ? We finally
touched down in Cochin, around 3:30pm and the first thing I noticed was how green it was and that I was still deaf on one side. Once out of the small yet perfectly efficient airport, we made our way and arrived at our hotel around 5:30pm. It had been a long day and I was feeling like shit. With no time to dwell on it, I freshened up and went to the welcome meeting to catch up with the new group. An older crowd that appeared nice, with people from Canada, India, and Britain mainly. There was now, Anne, Tracy, Tammy, Amarjit, Kurjeet, Peter, Jo and Rod, Sally and Mike, Nicole and Andrew and of course, John, Joan and me. Our new guide was called Muttu, who I took too instantly. After a very informative meeting we went to a local restaurant for dinner. I was wrecked at this point and also hungry, so I decided to follow suit, hopefull that I'd get to taste some wonderful local seafood. At the restaurant, I ordered prawns in a coconut sauce along with a fruity rice. Tonight, I thought I'd mix it up and got a fresh pineapple juice. Depressing I know,
booze currently off the table with the drugs I was taking. This turned out to be, one of those bad decisions!!! What had been a long day feeling like shit, still deaf on the one side with a blocked ear, I now had an upset stomach from the "fresh pineapple juice". Eating only a few mouthfuls of my dinner before having to leave the restaurant to vomit violently. The silver lining, I felt alot better immediately afterwards. In bed before 9pm, I got a good nights sleep and at least in the morning my ear popped. All was looking up. After a simple breakfast of omlette and tea, I was ready to take on Cochin with my new group. Cochin was very different to what I'd seen in the North, the air was cleaner, it was far more relaxed and there was almost a silence here with little or no beeping. It was bliss and I really felt I was in a different country. The streets almost free of litter, the roads were in good condition and it didn't have that rough raw exterior I'd seen so often throughout my Northern Adventure. Best of all, it was hot, the warmth
of the sun enveloped my aching body, providing a much needed energy to carry on and get the most from this picturesque place. The day commenced with an orientation walk which started at St Francis Church, the first european church to be built in India. Its origin from franciscan friars that accompanied the portugese expedition in 1500AD. It is believed to have gone through a number of building upgrades aswell as being used as a Protestant Church by the Dutch between 1663AD and 1795AD when the British took control of Cochin. It now belongs to the Church of India and houses both historic Portugese and Dutch gravestones. From there we walked through the local fish market and the area where the 'Chinese Fishing Nets' were set up. A fishing technique, thats been in use for the last 50 years known as 'Cheena Vala' locally. The huge cantilevered fishing nets were thought to have been initially introduced by the portugese. However trade accounts from the Court of Kubla Khan era between 1130 and 1450AD, make mention of them. With others stating it was the Chinese explorer, 'Zhang' who introduced the net to the Kochi Shores. It was a joy to watch
this traditional technique still being deployed even if the air was thick with the stench of fish. Still with a stuffy nose, I knew it had to be pungeunt. The whole scene housing everything you'd expect from a typical fishing location on a warm sunny day. Men working hard, periodically lifting and lowering the nets, many seabirds waiting in anticipation to snaffle the fish that get tossed aside. There was even a cat eyeing up a fish stall. A location, to loose yourself in, as you looked on at life, at the water's edge. Still with lots to see, we moved onto the 'Dutch Palace' via a sedate tuk tuk ride in comparison to the North, to view this interesting structure. The building from the exterior was bland in comparison to the intricate ceiling carvings and religious inspired mural filled walls, all completed with natural paints. The palace itself constructed in the form of a nalukettu (quadilateral structure), housing a central courtyard enshrining the Pazhayannur Bhagavati (the patron diety of the Kochi Royal family). Unfortunately, there was no photography inside this place, but if you ever find yourself here, its well worth a visit. The same goes for the 400
year old Cochin Synogogue which followed. The venetion glass light and the blue and white hand painted chinese tiles which decorated the floor were exquisite. Our tour of this small, yet diverse place, then took on a rather quirky, yet interesting turn of events. We grabbed a tuk tuk to view the local laundry, of all places. Whilst there we realised we were a man down losing the fella from the group, who was a 'Judge'. The biggest shocker though, it was mostly men doing the work, washing, pegging out and ironing. ? Coincidentally, Nicole and Andrew spotted their smalls drying on one of the lines. ? The next two weeks were going to be alot of fun, if this was the start of the comedic capers. Finally everyone reunited at lunch, I opted to taste the local Kingpin Fish, chips and vegetables. It merely filling a hole than anything spectacular. After lunch it was free time. Still not feeling 100%, I decided to take myself off and revisit the area of the 'Chinese Fishing Nets' and while away some of the time. I continued my walk along the coast, reaching the area where the backwaters met the ocean. Here
it was unsafe to swim as the waves lapped aggressively against this stretch of sand. It was a lovely hot afternoon and great to be by the coast. Another stark North/South difference made apparent was the male dress code, with most rocking a short cloth wrapped in a skirt formation or a long sarong. In this heat, I didn't blame them! As I followed the coastline, I passed by Fort Kochi Beach and an important Art Installation entitled, 'Fish Cemetery - A warning for the sustenance of Life!' This created by the Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute and Cochin Shipyard Limited to disseminate awareness that research across the globe has proved that plastic debris threatens the biodivesity of seawater and freshwater habitats, along with the ecology of rivers, beaches and the ocean. It was a very clever eye catching piece that added to the landscape. A little further on, I came Mahathmagandhi Beach, which wasn't a massive expanse of sand, but just enough to sit and enjoy the sound of the ocean, before having to wander back. I really loved this place, it was quaint, peaceful, and colourful with the hidden works of Street Art just adding to its charm.
A quick freshen up back at the hotel, it was time to enjoy a Kathakali Dance performance, considered one of the oldest dance forms in India. It combines drama, dance, music and ritual to re-enact stories from the Hindu Epics, 'Mahabharata' and 'Ramayana'. The performance lasted an hour in total and was solely undertaken by two men. Both rocking extensive make up, amazing costumes and performed some explosive body movements. It was an interesting performance, although like the Peking Opera, once in a lifetime is enough. ? Some of the intense eye rolling to the beat of the music was slightly disturbing, although probably took ages to master. Cultered out and tired, I decided to give a team dinner a miss tonight and grab something from the local shop to eat. Wooohoooo my reaction when I spotted a bag of Oats. I could have porridge. My hotel kindly prepared me a bowl with Banana and Jam. It was delicious and just what I needed before heading to bed.
I woke a little concerned the next morning, after having a terrible nights sleep and with what appeared to be a full on Gluten Baby. Oh shit, had I misjudged how contaminated
the Oats I bought were? Bugger! So my cold was now under control but my digestive system certainly wasn't. Bloody typical, all the good drugs for this, were in my big case which had been taken the evening before, as this morning, we only required a day pack for our train journey. It was with trepidation, I ate an orange for breakfast so I could take my cold meds. Drugs taken along with Ibuprofen, I was hopeful things would subside soon as I waddled on the train like an expectant mother. This was going to be fun, I thought. Lets hope the next phase of IBS doesn't kick in anytime soon. I wasn't sure what was going on with me. Mostly throughout my journey, I'd been pretty lucky, but these last few days, I was feeling rotten. It probably having something to do with, the lack of wine!! ?? Luckily, today of all days was a fairly quiet affair with us spending it mostly travelling to Kalpetta. It started with a 4 hour train journey from Cochin to Calicud on one of India's high speed trains. The station this time not overly packed, no cows on the track and had
a sense of calm and organised feel about it. We swept through beautiful countryside and passed many of the backwaters. The sun shone brightly and enhanced the green and yellow tones of this pictureque landscape. It had been a fairly mild winter here with most riverbeds dry and exposed. We arrived in Calicud in time for lunch, before spending another three hours on the bus to reach Kalpetta. I wasn't overly hungry and still puffed up but was hopeful to grab a little something. I was at that tricky stage when I didn't know if hunger pains were setting in. In fairness Muttu had organised the Chef to come talk to me and I'd opted for a plain steak with vegetables. Lets just say, India is very good at saying 'Yes' to everything, even when they have no idea what you've asked for. Long story short, twice a meal was presented and got sent back and I waited over an hour for a cup of tea. Pain not subsiding and me still waddling, (as you can imagine, I was nowhere near my happy smiley patient self, ??) I was done! The only thing easing my miserable demeanor that afternoon, was
the wonderful picturesque bus ride, which encompassed nine hairpin bends. As we slowly gained height, the forest views were more and more breathtaking. The vista stretched before us, mountains lost in the distance to the haze. The sun beat down and illuminated the various green shades of the plants, trees and bushes that carpeted this lush area. My eyes fixed on this mesmerising landscape. As we slowed down, to negociate each bend, I caught sight of my nemises, the monkey! and lots of them. These were Macau monkeys, the ones that steal! I was keeping my things close and thankful I was behind glass. ? We arrived at Kalpetta finally around 6pm. Not to overshare, but the expeltion of the 'Gluten Baby' started, my IBS raging. This was not a fun time for me or my poor room mate 'Tracy' who is a nurse but luckily used to it. At least this time, she didn't have to clean it up. ? My misery continued for over three hours when I decided, it was time to bust out the drugs, to make it stop. ? Enough was enough, after all! Exhausted and weak, I was completely done in. Still if eventually
the swelling of my stomach dissappated it would all be worth it and I was still hopeful by some miracle I'd be sorted for my hike the following day. As morning broke, I had deflated slightly so I decided to crack on with the days events. It was a busy one with an initial visit to Eddakal Caves. It was a steep climb up to the two caves that sit above one another. However it was worth it to view the very unique rock art engravings that were located in the top cave. Mostly dipicting humans figures in different styles as well as animals, trees, carts, wheels, symbols, letters and numeric signs. Some of the latest found figures believed to be inkeeping with those from the Chalcolithic and Bronze Age sites of the sub continent. As we meandeared back down the long steep path towards the bus, we saw women picking coffee pods. Bunches of red pods hanging from each coffee plant denoting they were ready to be harvested. The slopes covered in them. A little further on, monkeys appeared from the surrounding trees, already eating stolen goods from the stalls and unsuspecting tourists. Luckily I wasn't carrying anything tasty,
so I was left alone. They were both clever and comical to watch and it was easy to see how we'd coined the phrase 'Cheeky Monkey'. At the bottom, Amargit, treated us to a fresh palm sugar, lemon and ginger drink before getting back on the bus. This literally, the juice freshly squeezed in a press before us. My stomach still sore, I opted for a sip first. It was beautiful, like a sweet non fizzy lucozade so I ended up with a cup full. I needed a little sugar to give me a boost and this worked wonders. It was a short journey back to Kalpetta. Here we took a stroll in the main street, before heading for lunch to view the fresh ingredients on offer in this affluent little place. All beautifully presented in small shops, along the high street. Not at all disimilar from any developed country. Again, it was certainly different from the North. Feeling a little hungry, I knew I was getting better as one seldom misses out on not eating. ? For lunch, I played it safe and ordered a fruity vegetable rice dish. It was amazing. Warm white rice, slightly flavoured with mint,
mixed with fresh pineapple, pomegranite seeds, cashew nuts, banana, green beans, cherry, grape, cabbage and carrot. Wonderful fresh ingredients fused to make a tasty filling dish. I was stuffed when finished and one step away from a going into a food coma. ? Not the best really, given we still had a full afternoon of activities. Whoops! Luckily, I found a small wooden stump to park my arse on, whilst we watched a traditional pottery demonstration in the garden of a nearby property. It was pretty impressive how quick the elderly, Indian gentleman created a water jug out of a lump of clay. Back on the bus, we made our way to a local tribal village in Wayanad to get a true taste of rural life. Its the first time, I've felt uncomfortable in the South. Not from the people but from the situation. It was obvious those in this part felt completely vexed with us, white foreigners walking through their village gawping at them like they were a zoo attraction and quite frankly, I didn't blame them. I felt completely ashamed. What gave me the right to intrude on their daily lives? Although my tour company, provides financial support
to the village, for us to visit, it still felt forced rather than they wanted to share with us their lifestyle. Who could blame them? Us with everything and them struggling through hard labour just to survive was the harsh reality. As we walked through, many women were undertaking the hard task of opening each Betle nut shell which are collected by the men from the one of the tallest types of palm trees. It was hard to watch, seeing the piles of empty shells and the even bigger piles, still to go. As we meandered through, the tone did soften with the children, smiling and shouting "Hello". One young couple engaging with us, explained how dangerous the collection of the nut was, with the husband currently housing an occupational injury. Moving through the village we came to the edge of a banana plantation. It was here our guide demonstrated a variety of plants are grown together. Under yellow dead leaves he dug a small hole and harvested a fresh tumeric bulb. This, a first for me having only ever seen it ground previously. As we continued, he pointed out coffee plants and peppercorn which is a creeper. Tapioca crops,
which looked like pototoes, with the earth raised around the plant. Further on, there was a large rectangular area portioned into sections containing different crops. This much more reminescent of my Dad's garden, the only difference, the whole family were helping. Sorry Dad, x. We went over to talk to them, the young daughters english superb as she started to tell us the big problem India faces with contaminated crops from the overuse of pesticides. Learning from this, the Dad was currently using cow urine to protect their crops. No wonder there was a sweetness to the air. ? The nitrogen from the urine creating a nutrient rich soil to aid plant growth. She also spoke about their application of crop rotation. It was most interesting and meeting this family, had been a wonderful way to end, as I'd learned a little bit more about India and how this area was using organic methods to feed their village. Back at base, I skipped dinner that evening, still stuffed from lunch but was feeling alot better. A good nights sleep, I was raring for our onward adventure. It was time to leave the hills behind and head for the plains. We
said "Goodbye" to the state of Karnada and entered the state of Tamilnadu around an hour and a half into our four hour bus journey. Our end destination Mudumalai, where we'd spend the night. On our way, we stopped at a Tea Plantation for a chance to stretch our legs and try a local brew. The feeling you get from strolling between neatly trimmed tea bushes with a light breeze on your face is pure tranquility. It was another beautiful day and the expansive landscape of the plantation, simply breathtaking, just as it had been in Malaysia when I'd visited one there. The brew unfortunately called 'Harrisons Lockhart' described as the 'Super Premium Single Estate Othodox Tea' was not the best. Even though it was brewed in front of me, it was like drinking a cup of 'knats piss'. ?This, an endearing term used by us Brits to describe a really weak cuppa! As we reached the plains, we drove through Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary on the way to our accommodation. It was here we first spotted Chital (white spotted deer). The Langur Monkeys, also happily hanging out at the road side. I was excited about what we might see in
the Jeep Safari we had scheduled later that afternoon. Once settled in, the Jeeps soon arrived. The weather now slightly drizzly, I was hoping we'd still see something. My luck held firm clearly seeing many Chital, Birds of Prey, Peacocks and Peahens aswell as the rare larger Summer Deer at a distance. We also spotted two bears who refused to move from behind the camouflage of a bush. Oh well, you can't win them all. The highlights though was seeing two vunerable Gaur (Indian Bison) run across the road in front of our Jeep. It was exhilarating and brilliant seeing these large magnificent beasts move with such agility. The one thing though, that I was really holding out to see, was an elephant in its natural environment. During our tour, we'd seen lots of elephant dung, with our first sighting based on a tip nearing the end. If you squinted hard enough, you could see them on the hills far in the distance. It was cool but I really wanted more. On our way back, we passed a hive of activity so pulled over. There he was, set back in the bush using his trunk to cover himself in dirt.
It was amazing. Feeling chuffed and content I'd seen more than I thought I would, the best thing happened. We ended up seeing a family of three come across the road. It was absolutely incredible. The swiftness of these huge creatures was truly remarkable and to have witnessed that in such close proximity gave me goosebumps. This was definitely a trip highlight. Leaving behind Mudumalai, we made our way to Mysore, via a pleasant three hour bus journey. Just before arriving we stopped in a quirky little place for lunch, the Parklane hotel, which served western food. Not usually like me on holidays, but I was over it, going local.? This place offering not only great food but some excellent advice dispensed throughout their menu. My favourites being a 'Stranger, Danger' warning on the cover. Wash your hands after leaving the washroom to prohibit contracting the H1N1 virus, on the inside sleeve. At the back there was a 'Ten point plan to beat a Hangover' accompanied by a list of services and rules that this gem of a place runs by. This one in particular, priceless and unfortunately I only noticed it after I'd ordered, 'Disposable vomit bags are available
on request, in case of need. ?? I'm glad to report on this occassion, all was well with my meal of vegetable au gratin which had an exceptional cheese sauce accompanied by a large G&T. What more could a girl want? ? The other extras which I found to be a nice touch was the individual AC units for each table (a fan precariously fitted with free dangling switch box) and a red call light. Given all the advice, I wasn't sure if this was to summon the waiter or show you had company. ? It was nice to know though on this trip, we were getting to see all India had to offer. Hopefully our next stop in Mysore would be slightly classier and given it is commonly known as the 'City of Palaces', I had high hopes. It certainly didn't dissapoint. Mysore Palace, pulling in around 6 million visitors a year and one of the most famous tourist attractions in India after the Taj Mahal was a much better venue, for this princess. This historical palace, located in the heart of the City of Mysore was the official residence of the late Maharajas, the former Royal family between
1399 and 1950 when the Royal line ceased. A part of the palace now occupied by the Wodeyars - the rulers of Mysore. It is an exceptional building housing two very impressive durbars (ceremonial meeting halls of the royal court). The palace sits in around 6 acres, surrounded by beautiful gardens and three main entry gates with many secret tunnels. Its architectural style is described as Indo-Saracenic, which encompasses a blend of Hindu, Muslim, Rajput and Gothic influences. It was the colours that kept me mesmerised throughout this visit. Each room emblazoned with ornately decorated ceilings, wall murals, glass domes, tiled floors and coloured pillars. Spending time here, allowed you to soak in the splendour of an era long gone. To the east, the Chamundi Hills were situated and where we were off to next. The hill around 1000m has a ancient stone staircase that has 1008 steps leading to the summit. Obviously we are on holidays so got a lift to the top.? Its here we got to experience some of the Hindu religious rituals and witness first hand offerings as many locals queued to visit the Chamundeshwari Temple. Historically, human sacrafices would have been made. Today, I'm glad
to report, I witnessed the offering of flowers, vegetables, the smashing of coconut with the smearing of saffron, tumeric and a red powder along with the burning of camphor. There was a small gathering of men making music and chanting. The place, busy and a hive of activity with many stalls selling offerings such as flowers and fruits. It was colourful, lively and a wonderful place to be. My favourite part of the visit was walking around 300 steps down to the large monolithic statue of Nandi the Bull (ridden by the Hindu God Shiva). As we walked you could see each step had the same yellow, orange and red powder markings in fingerprint form. This created from many devotees especially women and young girls, performing a prayer ritual. The most famous being, a prayer to find a a good husband. Personally, if I'd made that trip from the bottom to the top, I'd be praying for a new set of lungs. ? A quick freshen up at the hotel once we'd checked in, we wasted no time in going back out, as tonight we needed to celebrate Tammy's Birthday. Helping out the Tour Leader, me and Tracy were enlisted
to get the group to the restaurant whilst Muttu organised a surprise cake. Utilising my skills learnt from Rambling, I led. Tracy was my back marker. Group delivered all present and correct, me and Tracy released of the pressure, tucked into our Apple Vodka that we'd found in the Supermarket, which had now mysteriously joined us from my handbag. My new roommate, a bad influence. ? All in good voice we sang 'Happy Birthday' and raised a glass to the Birthday Girl before tucking into dinner. Mine tonight, a lovely refreshing salad. Thank God, for the Vodka! ? My breakfast the following morning, a little more Indian inspired with a Dosa (rice pancake) with honey and banana which was yummy! Although the locals didn't think so, as the rest of my crew tucked into Marsala Dosas filled with spiced potatoes and three curry dipping sauces. Quite content being different, I savoured each mouthful before we headed to visit Deveraj fruit and vegetable market. This interesting place stuffed with all kinds of fresh ingredients along with lots of metal pots and pans, flowers, incense and oils. Myself and Anne, got a free demonstration of how to make an incense stick before
having the hard sell on his oils which initially smelt very nice. However by the end of the demonstration, the whiff was more reminiscent of cats piss, so it was a 'No' from me. Back to the hotel, I finished packing my case and got ready for our 8 hour train journey from Mysore to Chennai. At least this was a day train, so no worries about snoring. I prayed farting wasn't on the agenda either. ? All was looking up, the train station, very nice and I scored a traditional Indian delight, Kulfi (ice-cream), whilst we waited for the train. On board, I had a great seat by the table, Anne to my right, Joan to my left. Facing us, a lovely indian family, with Mother, Daughter and Son-in-law. The Father sat across the ailse. The scenery very pretty until we lost the light around six. The journey flew by and I did get to eat a few of my included meal items. A small soup, a bit of white rice and some more ice-cream. Luckily, I'd brought fruit along with me and some honey which filled a hole. Not, that I'm not, covered in provision but still, you
can't be too careful. ? We got off the train around 10pm, only then to get on our bus, for another 40 miles to reach our new home for the next two nights, Mamallapuram. I chose an early start on my free day to avoid some of the queues as this place was a haven for foreigners and locals alike. Deciding to go one more step local, I ordered Onion Dosa minus the spice with a coffee for breakfast. At least this time, I got the Indian nod of approval, well thats what I was going with, as it seemed to be the same for good, bad and indifference. My first stop of the day was the Lighthouse. An historic structure located slightly inland rather than directly on the coast. It was quiet as I arrived so blitzed the 93 steps that clung to the sides to reach the viewing platform located just under the main light which had a geographical range of 17 miles. Presented with impressive views of the nearby temples and Bay of Bengal coastline, I was glad I'd got up early. As I left, it was becoming more and more crowded, my celebrity status creeping up
everytime I got asked for a selfie. The Indian people very friendly and respectful, wanting to shake my hand. The only other place, I'd experienced such a thing was Chengdu in China. Moving on, I made my way to the beach following a sea of Indian women adjourned in bright red and gold sarees. I later discovered these signified they were on a special pilgramage. As I followed behind, we passed many small shops which led down to the open expanse of sand that sat to the right of the Shore Temple. The waves crashing violently onto the sand and covering those that were frolicking in them, saree and all. It was a wonderful sight. One reminescint of my own childhood with family days at the beach minus the clothes. Whole families played in the surf in their beautiful outfits enjoying the wonders of nature. There was even horse rides along the sand being offered if the mood took you. These being Donkeys at home. I got asked by a small group to join them in the water. Relunctantly I agreed but only up to my knees given the stark warning signs, this coast was not safe for swimming. Upto
my knees meant a wet arse. Still it had been fun in this beautiful warm water. The youngest girl, asking her older sister, "Where had my colour gone?" This loaded question finally brought some logic to all the stares, selfie requests and handshakes that had happened during my time here. It hadn't dawned on me, until that moment, that there were those that had never seen white skin before. Although, I felt I had a pretty decent tan. ? Obviously not! It must have washed off in the sea. ? Bidding the group farewell, I headed around the temple and continued onto beach to its left. This side completely different, jam packed with fishing boats and nets. The only ones, sunbathing, cows of all things. Not wanting to be upstaged, I decided maybe a day by the pool might be more condusive. Back at base, I snagged the only sunbed available and made the most of my own private facilities. The water a gorgeous tempetature to cool off in whilst the sun beat down. As lunchtime approached, I had to learn to share as a number of the group joined me. Drinks ordered, we sat back and whiled away the
afternoon. That evening, we were going to a Seafood Restaurant. I was excited to try the fresh locally caught delights of the sea. Dear God, where was my fruit? My squid cooked, to resemble rubber, my shrimps like bullets and stone cold. The accompanying garlic sauce, a travasty! How could such fresh ingredients be butchered, so? The one exceptional component, my coconut rice, light, aromatic, wonderfully flavoured was a dream to eat. Fresh coriander saving the rest of it. The look of the dish once I'd combined the individual components was aesthetically pleasing. The flavour and texture of the fresh seafood, hard to swallow, like so much of the Indian cuisine, for me!
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