Visiting India

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Cochin is known as “the Queen of the Arabian Sea” and located on the West Coast of India. It is the commercial capital of, and most cosmopolitan city in, the state of Kerala. Our bus begins our tour, hosted by the Virtuoso Voyager Club, with a stop in Fort Cochin, built by Portugal’s Alfonso de Albuquerque in 1500. Albuquerque arrived with settlers and five friars to build the first European church in India in 1503, the Church of St Francis. Standing in a corner of the typical English village green, this simplistic styled edifice does have some handsome floor tiles lining the main aisle. An interesting feature is the continued use of colonial era punkahs, large swinging cloth fans suspended above the congregation and manually operated from outside the church. This state has 51% Hindus, 25% Catholics with a 95% literacy rate. With 120” of rain a year, most during the main monsoon season of July- August, and a second one in Oct-Nov. Hydropower is the main electrical source.

Our next stop is watching the Chinese Fishing Nets operate, said to have been introduced by Chinese traders from the court of Kublai Khan. Large square nets supported by wooden poles, cantilever over the harbor and, operating by a system of weights and levers, are raised again to catch shrimp. Today the nets high cost of maintenance and lack of Indian fishermen willing to struggle for the diminishing catch have endangered this iconic tourist attraction. Our sunset cruise, sponsored by Virtuoso, follows for a waterside view of historic buildings, lush islands and the moving populations. We glide through islands and past the fishing nets of Fort Cochin. Upon returning to shore we stop at Greenix Villege for a performance of the unique Kathakali show, one of the oldest theater forms in the world. Using subtle eye and facial movements, this emotive dance form tells of legend to life in the temple of courtyards of Kerala. Afterward, we walk through the streets to our busses for traveling to the Taj Malabar Hotel, a 5 star hostiliary, a few Kilometers from the ship. The dinner was a classical Indian fare, although outside in the heat, and the service was up to the scale of Regent approval. We arrived back at the ship in time for the local show, arranged by the ship, and an after dinner drink to send us to bed. During the day we learned that there are 22 offical Indian languages and that each child must learn English and the Indian language of their state. They import trees from Malaysia to preserve their own diminishing forests. 90% of marriages are arranged with dowries paid and the ceremonies taking place soon after the parents agree on the union.

Our second day in Cochin leads us to the Tranquil Backwaters tour. Our bus drives to Alleppey, 1 and ½ hours south of the city along winding roads and through country traffic where honking horns announce their intent to swing to the opposite side of the road and play chicken with the oncoming traffic at 50 mph. Key to the survival of all is the willingness to give in to allow the passing of vehicles. Broken mirrors testify to the periodic connection of passing vehicles. Boarding a boat we cruise the backwater region, including a stop at a local home hosted by a gracious family (a major cut above the poorer neighbors washing their clothes in the canal), St Mary’s Church School and pass by the Snake Boat building yard. Lunch is at a very well appointed resort hotel with a variety of Indian menu choices. Our return bus ride passes us through historic Fort Cochin, again, and past the Chinese Fishing nets. Arrival at the ship ends a warm but interesting day.

Mangalore is a major cashew resource center for India and we have the chance to visit the Achal Cashew Processing Plant which opens especially for us. First large bags of the picked nuts are opened and the nuts spread out on cement slabs for the 72 hour drying process. Taken into the plant they are steamed and women workers (earning $4 a day) deshell to capture the inner nut, using oil on their hands to protect them. The next crew scrapes the skin off and they are then roasted, washed, sorted and packed. The cashew fruit, which hangs beneath the nut, is distilled into two strengths of liquor – one of 4% alcohol, “Urock”, and the other, Fenl, of 40%. The latter, which smells pungently, reportedly is good for the cure of colds and to help digestion as one downs it rapidly to avoid the taste and smell. Of course, one can also believe it is used as a sleep ing aid.

After a visit to the renovated Gokarnath Temple we drive on to the St Aloysius Chapel at the college of the same name, one of the earliest churches in the state. The temple has a separate wedding building for receptions after the ceremony. The private home we visit, Belmont House is one of the earliest European style homes in the heart of the city and well preserved by its current, very hospitable, owners. Proudly displayed are photos of the original owners and Lord Jesus Christ. As we watch the man of the house grind curry we learn of its origin in the coconut. They offer us beverages and native cookies as they share their experiences. We return to the ship through armed guards protecting our ship with automatic weapons.

Goa has 1.5 million population and yet has a slower life style than the other metro areas. The Portugese ruled until independence came in 1961. 60% are Hindus with Catholicism about 25%. Today’s youngsters don’t wish to stay on the rice farm but study abroad. April and May are the hottest months with the kids returning to school in June for the first monsoon season. Iron ore mining was a major employer until two years ago when the government, trying to change the drain of profits to offshore interests, halted all mining. The courts are now settling the issue. The caste system is still very evident, although the untouchables were absorbed into the lower castes. Arranged marriages prevail. People move to Goa for the more liberal social policies and availability of alcohol, meat, etc. We visit the Basilica of Born Jesus and Se Cathedral before traveling to the Shantadurga (Hindu)Temple. Our visit to a local spice farm was fascinating as the knowledgeable guide explained the variety of plants grown for their spices and what ailments could be cured by their application. A “Tarzan” picker demonstrated his climbing technique to harvest the coconuts by swinging between the tall Palm trees. These trees shade the more delicate spice plants. Lunch is of local foods with sweet pineapple for desert. The male pineapples are sweeter with female fruit more bitter. As we drive back to the ship we see all the ore barges berthed in idleness.

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