Omkareshwar

---

To reach Omkareshwar, there are no trains from Ujjain and a rare bus. The best way is to take a cab (couple of thousand Rs) or go to Indore and them take a train or bus to Omkareshwar (80 miles from Indore). I decided to take the latter option. The next day, I got ready by 5:00 am and took an auto to the station. Be aware that transportation might be difficult if you don’t plan ahead to time. There are few autos in the area at that time of the day. I walked few yards out of the hotel and luckily me, I found 2 autos and took one. I purchased a 2nd class ticket (29Rs) to Indore (80 Kms) and made myself comfortable in a 3-tier AC coach. I reached Indore at 8:00am and headed to the bus stand near the station. There are plenty of buses from Indore to Omkareshwar. There are no luxury buses!!! I took a private bus and was asked to sit on the bonnet. They over pack the bus before taking off. Well, actually I liked sitting on the bonnet next to the driver. It has been over 23 years since I last did something like that and it gives you a bird’s eye view of the road. On the way, the bus stops for a quick pooja at a local hanuman temple. They also light incense sticks and offer flowers to the deities on the dashboard. I guess, today I was chosen to offer the flowers and light the incense sticks to the deities on the dashboard. In a little while, we crossed Narmada River. Here the bus driver stops to discard flowers from the previous day into the river. Apparently, that’s they routine.

The route to Omkareshwar is Ghat road. So be prepared for delays in case of other vehicular breakdowns or accidents. On a average it should take 2 - 2.5 hours depending on the traffic. On my upward journey, it took little longer because there was a transport lorry breakdown and most of the traffic was held up. Also, beware that the bus crosses 4 railway gates and that could take sometime as well in case the gates are closed to traffic. The drive should be scenic and beautiful (its my imagination). Since it is summer, all the trees have dried up and you can even see dried streams on the hills and in the valleys. No wonder why people say Oct to Feb is the best time to visit. Just after reaching Omkareshwar Gate (railway station), we were asked to shift into a share auto to go to the town (12kms). Guess what, I was sharing an auto with 16 other people. The ride to Omkareshwar town was bumpy. We reached the town at 11:15am. From there the temple is around 2 kms by walk. On your way, you cross the Narmada bridge again. This place is beautiful. On the right you can see the Dam and the left the river. This is the place where rivers Cauvery & Narmada meet! It is really nice and would have been more spectacular where there is greenery. I headed to the temple and did not find anything unusual except that there is a panchamukha swayambu Vinayaka. After worshipping Lord Omkareshwar, I headed up two flights through narrow tunnels to visit two other forms of the lord. Watch your step here, the tunnel is very narrow and you might bump into the tube on the top as I did. You will get a great view of the hills, the rivers and the mighty dam.
After the temple visit, I got a small jetty ride to cross the river for 2 Rs and then headed to Mamaleshwar temple. Rumor has it that this is the original jyothilingam. Well, it doesn’t matter, I am there and I visited that temple too. An interesting practice is the local pandits perform one lakh lingam pooja with lingams made out of mitti from the river. From there, I headed to the dam under the blazing sun. By this time, I drank 1.2 liters of soda and one liter of water and still my throat is dried out. I was also paying attention to my urinary output and it had obviously gone down considerably. Somewhere on the internet, I read that this dam as the world’s largest and I didn’t think so. However, I will have to research into it! There is still some construction going on and the area to the damn was a restricted area and I was not allowed even to take photos. Disappointed, I started walking back to the bus stand to head back to Indore. On my way, I was guided through an alley where my pants got ripped by a barbed fence. Well there goes a nice pant!!! I feared that people might start offering food or money thinking that I was a beggar. Well, such was my condition - torn pant, flip flops, bleeding toes due to the new flip flops, dirty pants, dirty feet from the dust. It was crazy and someone I was lucky that people overlooked me. I took a bus back to Indore station and this time purchased a local ticket to Ujjain (13Rs). Guess what, I decided to experience traveling in second class. I boarded the running train as it approached the platform, just to make sure I get a seat with hundreds waiting. This is survival of the fittest. You have to be agile and precise in judgment to get a seat in the second class compartment. After managing the coveted window seat, I quickly realized that this not the place I want to be. Too bad, its too late now!!! With two hundred people in the compartment, I reached Ujjain at 7:00. I rushed back to my hotel, took a quick shower, dinner and headed to the station at 9:45pm on my way to Somnath. Luckily, the train was on time. I boarded into second AC and immediately dozed off.
I am not convinced that India is shining. I think, we have a long way to go. Smaller towns & rural communities appeared to be neglected with poor living conditions. No matter what the media projects - the reality is "we have a long way to go". The backbone of our country is being neglected - why cant we just prevent corruption and bring an "accountability act"?

---

Comments

[BhavanaG]

I love reading your travel account. Its so vivid and descriptive that i feel as if i am travelling!! Would love to see some pictures of the places you visited esp Varanasi. Do post them when you have some relief from delayed train journeys! Looking forward to the next post!