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Published: March 11th 2009
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Calcutta - Memories of Victoria
Olivia outside the impressive Victoria Memorial at sunset. Hi again everyone - hope the winter back home is almost over...
Last time we wrote, we were making the transition from the northern state of Sikkim and the Darjeeling area and starting to move towards the south, along the east coast. Kolkata - known as Calcutta in the time of the British rule - was our first stop along the way. It was a great city to visit and super to feel like we were experiencing the “real” India once again. Though it took some time to re-adjust to some of the sights, sounds (traffic noise), garbage, etc. that we had long forgotten after all of our adventures in the mountains, there were plenty of interesting sights to explore. And in some strange way the 'negatives' combine in a unique way that seems to work and keep things interesting and exciting - and forms the magic that is India.
Kolkata - while reknowned for its extreme poverty and ever-growing slums - is also one of the cultural capitals of India. The old colonial architecture scattered throughout the city, monuments such as the grand Victoria Memorial, old colonial gardens, parks and horticultural centres, wide (sometimes even tree-lined!) thoroughfares, the
Kolkata
View of the High Court building, typical colonial architecture. numerous old "Ambassador" style car taxis, and the art and music scene found in every corner is a true testament to this. The lively and cheap street food scene was also a highlight of the days we spent in the city: in particular, kati rolls (think hot, pan-fried burrito-like snacks stuffed with your choice of filling), chaats (aka. snacks) of all different shapes, sizes, and degrees of spiciness, and fresh fruit and fruit juice / lassi stands on every corner!! A visit to Mother Theresa's missionary centre and tomb was a humbling moment. Interestingly, the whole vibe in Kolkata seemed to be somehow more low-key compared to our only other experience in a booming metropolis - New Delhi. Then again, it could be that we’re just getting more comfortable with this whole travel routine…
We then hopped aboard a 30-hr long train that took up directly into the central part of the country to the city of Hyderabad. Believe it or not, we’re enjoying our travel adventures with India Railways!! While the heat definitely increased with the move further south, there were a number of fascinating historic sites in the city that kept us busy for a few good
Bathtime in Calcutta
Showers always available on the streets of Kolkata! days. Highlights from our time in Hyderabad include visits to: the Charminar, the Royal Palace complex, one of the largest mosques in all of India - the Mecca Masjid - which has capacity for up to 10,000 worshippers - the sprawling Golconda Fort complex, and the Qutb Shahi Kings tombs. Since the city is also renowned for its pearl industry and as one of the “bangle” (bracelets worn by all Indian women) capitals of India, a little window shopping and market touring was also in order. Hyderabadians also boast about having the best biryani (spiced rice dish) in all of India! Unfortunately some belly complications prevented both of us from enjoying a lot of the tasty delicacies found around town, but we did sample a few treats along the way.
Finally, it was time to start moving further south to the coastlines and beaches. Our next stop was the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu, Chennai. We didn’t last too long here - both of us were getting a bit weary of the big city life and in search of a more relaxed and quieter pace. Still, we enjoyed our first glimpse of the Bay of Bengal at
Flower Power
The always colourful flower market in Calcutta at Mullik Ghat. the beach in Chennai and toured some beautiful old churches still standing from the time of the Portuguese and British colonial rule. Our visits to local Hindu temples were also unique in that we started to see some of the intricately carved, beautifully (and colourfully!) painted gopurams for which south India is famous. A food highlight: the start of our experiences with ‘thalis’ (or ‘meals’) served on large banana leaves - all you can eat (“unlimited”) meals with a heaping mound of rice as a base, some pappadam, 2 or 3 different vegetable side dishes and dal. YUM!! and eaten in true local style with only your right hand. All of this usually for Rs 40 ($1) or less!
Then off to explore some small, coastline towns: first stop, Mamallapuram. This nice beach village about 2 hours south of Chennai offered us just the right combination of beach walks, cool Bay of Bengal breezes, fine seafood as well as some familiar Western cuisine, and stunning stone temples / carvings. We lounged out here for a few days - re-energizing and planning for the upcoming “temple tour” of three other historic cities in Tamil Nadu that we had planned. Before
Cricket Time!
A favourite pasttime with the young in India it seems, as seen here on the streets in Calcutta. heading off though, we made sure to visit Pondicherry (aka. Pondy) - a city that many people had told us was not to be missed!!
Good thing we included this stopover in our itinerary. What an interesting and spiritual community!! Much of the city (at least, many of the tourist parts) seem to revolve around the ashram established by Sri Aurobindo and a French disciple of his, a woman who has endearingly earned the name of “the Mother”. There are multiple associated organizations that actively engage local and foreign devotees alike in a wide range of social welfare and income-generating projects. Another related project that has flourished into a
full-fledged community is Auroville (see www.auroville.org). This is a fascinating experiment in intentional community living that embraces the following ideology: “Auroville wants to be a universal town where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities. The purpose of Auroville is to realise human unity." Pondy is also VERY French (it was the capital of French colonial India) and there are still lots of lingering influences from that time including very colourful and beautiful architecture
Hyderabad - Tombs
Inside one of the tombs of the Qutb Shahi Kings. and food to satisfy the French palette - think superb coffee, croissants, fresh salads, baguettes, sweets etc. We certainly didn’t shy away from taking advantage of the local cuisine here (and enjoying a small break from sometimes over-oiled and spicey Indian food).
Then it was time for the temple circuit to begin! From Pondicherry, we made our way by local bus to the following three cities: Thanjavur (Tanjore), Tiruchirappalli (Trichy), and Madurai. At our first stop, in Thanjavur, we visited a huge and impressive temple complex known locally as the “Big Temple” - a site well worth seeing both in the late afternoon light as well as in the early morning light. It was a meditative and inspiring visit!! Moving on to Trichy, where highlights of our stay included visits to the famous Rock Fort Temple complex as well as two other Hindu temple complexes similar to the one we had seen in Thanjavur. Striking to the architecture of the temples in Trichy though were the huge and multiple “gopurams” - tall pillars or gateways in a temple complex that are intricately carved and beautifully painted. Interestingly, the temple in Trichy is also thought to be the largest temple
Energy Drink
Getting some fresh sugarcane juice in Hyderabad - always a great energy boost. complex in all of India, covering over 60 hectares!!
Finally, in the city of Madurai, we again enjoyed a visit to a stunning (and very large!) temple complex along with some interesting markets, museums and a palace with especially beautiful architecture. Unfortunately the carvings and colors on the 12 gopurams at the temple in Madurai were not visible due to re-painting efforts which apparently will take close to a year to complete! Still, the temple interior and sheer size of the pillars was humbling and very special (especially when watching the sunrise and sunset from the rooftop of our guesthouse).
We’ve now left the state of Tamil Nadu and are headed to enjoy some time on the westcoast of the subcontinent in the state of Kerala. Beaches, more warm weather, hopefully some cool breezes off the Arabian Sea, backwater boat tours, and lots of yoga practice in an ashram await us. We’ll keep you posted!!
Hope all are well and feel free to send comments and updates of your own - we'd love to hear from you!
Love,
Olivia & Dave
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