Two Weeks in Kolkata and Rasta Bangla


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July 15th 2010
Published: July 15th 2010
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MohamedjiMohamedjiMohamedji

From Bihar. This photo does him no justice- he is one of the most enthusiastic and hilarious people in the planet.
It was great to be back, but it seems it is time to move on.....

A group of French people have invited me to go with them to Varanasi. I feel it is my duty to help out the new ferangi in India. Also, it is a good excuse to get out of this city for some time.

I love Kolkata. I absolutely love it. However, it has been a bit intense. Yes, it is great to know people, but maybe I should go spend some time in a place where nobody knows my name, and I cannot speak any of the language.

Yesterday I took a walk in the evening. Whenever someone interacted with me, I tried to respond in Bengali.

New Market Tout: "What do you want to buy?"

Me: "Ami khabar chai. Khabar sastar, khabar rasta." . I want food. Cheap food, street food.


Me (handing over a 100rs note for 10rs worth of sugar cane juice): " Apni change acchen? Do you have change?



Me: Apni khoob beshe patli nae. Ami manush khoob kripan. You are not too skinny. I am a very stingy man.

(This got me the barest hint of a smile from a person who's livelihood depends on looking sad).

After Varanasi I plan to chill out in Bodgaya for some time. Maybe then back to Kolkata or maybe onwards to other places Esharrer janne !

But I know I will be back here someday, inshallah .

I played my clarinet for the patients at Prem Dan. Loads of fun. I will miss them.

I took my first richshaw ride from a skinny little Bihari I met two years ago. He cannot weigh more than a hundred pounds, but he pulled my decadent girth with skill. I have never seen him so happy.

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2nd October 2010

Let me teach you good Bengali, Apni change acchen? -- should be "Apni kachhe change acche/hobe?"

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