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Published: January 27th 2007
Kolkata Street
A typical view of a typical small street near where we stayed.Our first port of call, Kolkata, is not a gentle entry point for the tender western tourist! A comparison to anything I've experienced in western culture is impossible; this country is an assault on the senses but its people are as beautiful as their lives are fascinating. The city holds over 13 million people, and after a day it feels almost as if you've seen every one. Garbage lies in huge piles in the streets, where it is picked through by crows, dogs and people. Every block holds streetside vendors making and selling everything from full meals to chai tea; the tea comes in great little earthen cups which are, not suprisingly, thrown in the gutter after use. We thought we'd be safe from the attentions of the multitudes of shoe shiners (wearing pink and red thongs) but somehow they still thought we were fair game!
The markets were fantastic, as are all in my mind 😊 White skin seems to call to half the population however, and in the markets getting 10 seconds to yourself is almost unmanageable - we've learnt to be very good at saying 'NO!" quite firmly 😊
The streets were insane, as an introduction
Sam drinking Chai
These little cups were Rs2 each ($1AUD=34Rupees), were available everywhere, and delicious! to Indian traffic we couldn't have asked for anything more! I've heard that driving is 90% eyesight, and for the rest you rely on hearing. I'm convinced that those numbers are reversed in India. Horns are used when passing, overtaking, changing 'lanes' (this concept is yet to be realised here), turning, trying to move in any direction, and sometimes maybe just to avoid that oppressive silence they've heard exists. It's incredible, please don't take any of this in a negative context! Somehow the system seems to work, accidents occur commonly apparently, but we've yet to see one!
We managed to get a train out of Kolkata after 2 nights, travelling on the third. The train was another experience not to be forgotten any time soon! Rumours exist of a fancier class of travel, but those we've heard so far don't paint a lasting impression. We travelled in what was, I believe, the 2nd cheapest option, which meant it was a 'sleeper', possibly known as '2nd class sleeper'. In a space of about 3m (the width of the train) by 2m, beds were provided for 8 people. With my baggage above my head I fit in with knees reasonably bent,
Garbage in Kolkata
This was on Sudder Street - the main budget accomodation/tourist street. As far as we can ascertain, all garbage is thrown into the street, where it is continually cleaned into these trucks.. they seem to be fighting a losing battle. although if I wanted the bend them up instead of out they hit the bed above. Despite this, each of us managed a reasonable nights sleep; the rocking of the train was soothing and the noise covered by earphones 😊 The sleeping bags were a godsend - the center of this subcontinent gets cold at night!
To summarise our main impressions of Kolkata after just 2 days...
- Smelly / Dirty
- Divided (between classes). At the same time, even the wealthy live in the same city as the street urchins.
- Pollution (hence the not so veiled title - a reference to ourselves, not a dig at the inhabitants!)
- Incredible Chai!!! Those street side vendors are amazing. Rs2 (~6 cents AUD) gets a small cup of a slice of heaven.
- Incredible Food!!! I'll have to write more about the food later... but a very nice meal from well under 1 AUD? Can't beat it 😊
- Lovely people. As a whole, even the poorest can raise a beautiful smile for no apparent reason.
That's all for this blog, though more photos may come with a faster connection. Those wondering where the train was
Throwing flowers in celebration
The guy with his hand outstretched just threw a chain of fairly forlorn marigolds through our taxi window - there were plenty of trucs like this with up to (and over?) 20 people in the back drumming, singing, and throwing flowers and smiles to anyone and everyone :) This was a holiday to recognise the God of Education. heading shall be answered in our next entry 😊
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Russell
non-member comment
Sounds adventurous!
I'm pleased it is turning out as cheap as you figured - I was concerned you'd get there only to find otherwise! What's the accomodation like? Showers maybe? Or not... Take care, and have fun. R