Belief in Bolpur

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I simply had to escape from the polluted air of Kolkata (previously called Calcutta) which is competing with Delhi to be the most polluted city in India. Since I wanted to buy traditional handicrafts, I decided to find the source and planned a day trip from Kolkata to Bolpur.

A restless night and for the first time I appreciated the wake up call of the morning Azaan from our nearby mosque. After a cuppa tea, I took a yellow, ambassador taxi which tried to fleece me for 100 INR for a distance less than 2 kms instead of running by the meter. I offered to take another one and being the first customer of the day, it was considered bad luck and he continued.

It was exciting to see the mass of humanity at Sealdah train station. People maintained social distancing. Like old times, I checked my name against the paper
charts on Platform 14 and confirmed my seat. It was a single seat by the window.

I had a mask and covered it with a scarf over my head for double protection. I kept the window opened all throughout for air circulation. Enjoyed homemade luchi, dry
potato curry and pickle. ( I carried two bananas and they came back intact. Perhaps they desired a day trip like me). Was tempted to drink some local tea in baked terracotta cups in the train but decided my stomach might not be up for it.

The beautiful landscape of paddy fields, some wild Kash grasses, yellow mustard fields, ponds, huts etc greeted my eyes.

The constant irritation of my throat vanished in the clean air of the countryside. We stopped at Bardhaman Junction and reached Bolpur around 9.30am after 3 hours of a comfortable train journey.

Bolpur is a neat and clean station with lovely sign boards as it is a popular tourist spot. I checked with the e-rickshaw drivers ( locally called Toto) and fixed a full day tour for 700 INR.

It was a beautiful landscape with grazing cows, goats and kids, ponds with a few ducks, potato farms, paddy fields and some huts on the way to Kankalitala temple about
7kms from Bolpur railway station. The temple supposedly a Shakti Peeth was small and clean with a temple pond. Behind the temple, were pretty mustard fields too and a dirty Kopai river. There was a rather cool breeze flowing from the open countryside.

A couple of Baul players were playing flute of devotional songs. Perhaps the Hindu temples are the only ones with a long line of beggars on both sides- separate line for men and women. The Shiv temple was being repaired. Overall, a nice unbothered temple. Back in Toto, we went to a bridge on Kopai river which had the typical beauty of rural Bengal. So much potato was being grown! They had set up a motor to pump water from the river to the fields.

Women were cycling around in sari. Children blocked our toto with a string of rags so that they can collect funds for upcoming Saraswati pooja. Saraswati is the Hindu Goddess of learning and music- favourite of all children.

We passed by the Shonajhuri forest where a Haat (open air market place) is held. It was closed because of pandemic as was the case for all the tourist spots. We went to the deer park and I spotted one deer so far away from the gate. They must be loving this privacy.

Near Prantik railway station, there were some fabulous, beautifully maintained bungalows with very well maintained gardens of marigolds and gorgeous dahlias. Crossed the train crossing to arrive at Amar Kutir which is a local charity for indigenous crafts. It was fascinating to watch how the famous Shanti Niketan leather bags were being made by expert craftsman.

I enjoyed a sumptuous Bengali thali with bhetki fish sarse ( mustard sauce curry) in authentic Brassplates. The food was delicious especially the moong dal with ghee and rice. After the lunch, it was tiresome to walk. However, there was more to come. Shopping!

Amar Kutir was orginally set up to fight for Indias' independence and after independence, it was converted to a charity for rural empowerment.

Indeed, thanks to the sacrifices for these freedom fighters, we are living in a free India.
Next to this was the West Bengal Tourism Department guest house where our West Bengal Chief Minister, Mamta Banerjee stays. It was beautifully
maintained with decorations on the entry walls, sculptures of cranes and gardens with marigold.

I bought beautiful, organic, hand printed clothes, wraps in batik, kalamkari and kantha. Also, beautiful reed mats
for yoga and famous Shanti Niketan leather bags with animal and plant designs imprinted on them. The shop seller told me that prices had recently increased because of high cost of suppliers. The shop was so busy day. After a massive shopping of the best of Bolpur, I loaded three bags into the Toto to see the Vishwa Bharati, the famous University set up by the visionary, Rabindranath Tagore.

It was vast and expansive with women's and men's hostel, biotechnology/computer science/arts/languages
departments with their separate canteensso that students can get good nutritious food in campus itself.

The fact that students were taught under trees is true because there were designated benches under trees for older and younger students to sit and learn.

There was a beautiful glass house where prayer meetings were held in the evenings. The place had loads of sculptures made by both students and
teachers of Vishwa Bharati university.

There was a feeling of individuality and desire to be free, to be oneself in this place.

Among them was the home of Amartya Sen, the Nobel prize winner in Economics. He is 87 years old and still visits. Nearby, was Rabindranath Tagores'
home. There was a beauitful podium in the garden to felicitate the new graduates, a stage where students performed drama/skits/dances in different languages. A corner plot garden was the spot where the vegetable sellers had a fair for their chosen vegetables. A rather unique place where individuality was nurtured in a safe environment, surrounded by nature. There were no walls hiding the place but simple, barbed wires which made the difference.

The shop keepers were polite unlike in the cities. One even played his bamboo flute to show that a long breath is required to catch the rhythm. It is not to be played in bursts. ( When you look for a teacher, you will find him)

I was observing a statue which the Toto driver explained depicted the mouth for the 7 notes (Saregama). It did not match. There was a man cycling with some handicrafts, he joined the conversation and we- Toto driver, cyclist and I stood by the statue and nodded our heads together in total disagreement.

For the past 2 years, there were hardly any tourists. How did all shopkeepers selling their wares on carts, survive to support their families? It would have been nice to see the students but all the students had gone online for the past two years. It is lost years for school friendships and observing teachers who inspired millions of youth. Who gained from this pandemic except big multinational companies?

Eyeing all my shopping, my Toto driver enquired if I did work and thankfully, I did. Soon it was time to catch the train back. I enquired where my boggie is set to stand and a man told me the place. Later, he found me and told me the exact place. It is such friendly behaviour, so different from the cities.

The train was on time. I was pleased to get a single, window seat again. I bought some chikki ( peanut jaggery mix) but realised I was wearing mask and could not eat it in the train.

It was about 3 hours journey and the train hurried away to reach Howrah.

At Howrah, I took a prepaid taxi. The taxi driver later remarked that today's government had deputed home guards to catch old taxis who had not paid road tax or not done repairs as everything was available online, in the click of a button. Why was the traffic police not doing it? If people are not doing what they are supposed to do, who takes accountability and why pay them salary? He was feeling disheartened because he was educating his son to be a Chartered Account and what future did West Bengal hold for him? I assured him that things will work out and not to lose hope.

At home, it was lovely to remove masks/head gear, greet family, take a hot bath and eat a hot meal before hitting the bed. The clothes and handicrafts had an ethnic, earthy flavour, beautifully nurtured by the local population including the Santhals ( Local tribal population).

It was about co-existence between people and nature, with nature showing the way by nurturing individuality to be oneself, free of the worldly ways.

Lets embrace a new way of living, a unique belief in Bolpur.

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Photos

30% of the shopped items
Rest gifted already :)