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Published: December 19th 2008
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After a Helter Skelter busride from Jaipur we arrived to the peaceful valley of Reshikesh, where the Ganges flows out of the Himalaya's into the plains... A very holy place for Hindu's with many Ashrams included the now defunct Maherishi's Asram where the Beatles stayed in 1968.
On the first day we stayed in Ram Jhula which is where all the ashram's are because we had been travelling for a long long long time and I said to Leith "I'm so tired i've hardly slept a wink", so we found the first reasonable guesthouse and decided to stay there for the night.
There a loads of Saadhu's in Reshikesh, which are men with big beards and orange robes who are supposedly very devout hindu's who have given up all possesions in the search for enlightement or something like that. They sit around all day smoking Charras (Hash in english) and drawing pictures (Coulring in in english) or knitting (knitting in english)
We explored the river valley and found the very nice village of Laxmanjhula about a kilometer up the road. We found a hotel in laxmanjhula and decided to move up there the next day. THe next day
we left all the flakey ashram types and piggies in Ram jhula and moved up to Laxmanjhula. we have had a great 3 days. walking through the peaceful forests and listening to blackbird singing in the dead of night, viewing the himalaya's, hanging out in cool little restaurants by the river. Just genreal relaxation.
We even managed a cooking class where we learnt how to make Chapati, Paneek Paneer and Dal fry. We meant a group of nice Aussies who walked down through the foothills with us. After hearing a little about Dharamshala we decided thats where we wanted to head next. Booking a ticket was a little bit of a problem as the train was full. However, as the agent said. "Everything in India is possible my friend, there is just a price." Next minute, he was calling the staion manager and we had a special ticket from the station manager which he must keep aside as a nice little earner for himself. Seems everyone has something to hide except for me and my monkey. I think that should be the new touris slogan for India. "INDIA - EVERYTHING YOU WANT IS POSSIBLE... MY FRIEND"
So from
Snake charmer
Looking through the glass onion Reshikesh now its time to say good night. NExt stop is Dharamshala and I hear a rumour that the Dalai Lama is in the house.
Leith:
Rishikesh
Getting to Rishikesh was a long journey. If anyone is planning to do this trip, I would suggest stopping in Haridwar at least for some lunch.
Instead we pushed on and got the local bus to Rishikesh which took another hour and then got dropped off at the bridge and then wandered round with our packs on for another half an hour at least.
I have to say given I was starving and seriously in need of a toilet that I didn't find too much good with Rishikesh. When we finally found the stupid hotel we were looking for (Lonely Planet and Rough Guides are RUBBISH) we discovered that we were in the middle of a large Ashram complex with nothing around but babbling babas and beggars - oh and the mandatory cows dogs and monkeys.
At this point I was ready to leave the next day. I do not want to go to an Ashram. I discovered that last time in India and I'll tell you why....I did
not save up money to come to a country and then deprive myself of the sights and smells and tastes of the place. In an Ashram you eat the same bland thing every day for a week. You have to clean, you have to chant with everyone else, you have to get up at 4 or 5 in the morning. That is not a holiday for me. That is punishment. Many people find them very theraputic and worthwhile but as far as I'm concerned...they are welcome to it. Plus I don't understand ashram goers. You get some people looking like they haven't bathed or washed their clothes in weeks - and these are travellers. You know, like flies buzzing round their heads and things. What happened? Were they so overwhelmed with spiritual power that they can no longer wash?? I know, I am a cynic.
OK...so Ben did some walking and discovered the travellers part which we moved to the following day. Called Lakshmanjula, the area has lots of cheap rooms and quaint little restaurants that have saying in their menus like "Happy Ever! Nasty Never!".
We spent 3 nights in Lakshmanjula and it was really good. One oddity: every
night the wind picks up for a couple of hours and absolutely howls through the town. It's really eery but by the morning it's gone again and the weather is fine. First place in India where the weather is like Wellington!!
We did a cooking course in this guy's house which was really fun and so anyone who wants to come to ours for Indian when we get back, is welcome. I might even do another one in Dharamsala if we have time.
Yesterday we did a day trek down one the hills surrounding Rishikesh and it was probably my favourite day here although my legs are really sore today.
So now we're off to Dharamsala. We've heard good things about it here and so we've decided to go into the hills more instead of going to Varanasi. Wish us luck for another journey....
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