Hairy drivers and manic India

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I just arrived in Rishikesh about an hour ago, minus my luggage and attendant clean clothes. I didn't think it was possible to dry myself with a sock but hey that's life - full of suprises.

Delhi was crazy. Everyone says it is a culture shock but nothing could have prepared me for the pollution and the ever-present smell from Delhi to Rishikesh. The 7 hour drive from the airport to Rishikesh was unbelievable. There was no discernible road. I kept waiting for Delhi to end and to become countryside - it didn't.

There was an awful lot of throat clearing and nose excavation going on all over Delhi. After the journey I could understand, given the level of pollution, why this was so. Nevertheless beautiful, colorful saris floating in the gentle breeze seemed slightly incongrous with the sight of owners scrutinising the contents of their excavations.

It was amazing to see entire families on a single motorbike and not being in any way perturbed by big smelly trucks about to run them off the road. Driving is a free for all - I think Henry was right I should probably sit my test over here. It is unbelievable. While there doesn't seem to be any rules of the road over here the following principles seem to apply:

1. The use of the horn is mandatory and is to be used reflexively, even in circumstances where the car is on a clear stretch of road.
2. The use of the horn must be adequately juxtaposed with sharp braking designed to throw any passengers into chaos.
3. Driving on both sides of the road is permissible unless there is traffic coming in the other direction.
4. In the case of 3, driving on the other side of the road is still permissible if you can play chicken quickly enough and dodge the oncoming vehicle.

I am staying in a yoga spot on the banks of the Ganges. It is on the steps (known as the ghats) of the Ganges. I haven't managed to bathe in it yet and given the level of polluton here think I might give it a skip.

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